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Old 12-13-2005, 06:09 AM   #2251
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Originally Posted by buboy28
Dongskie, why are you selling your TA-05? anyway thank you very much for your set-up with my car although i'm not racing very good with the jogging path that i'm running the car with already got the white springs that you mentioned but i got the short one in the front and the long ones in the rear will be bringing the car at Speedzone this weekend so that you could try it out there thanks
Sure Buboy28... anytime...
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Old 12-13-2005, 07:43 AM   #2252
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I don't know if this has been answered before. DJ pro module is it worht it?
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Old 12-13-2005, 08:06 AM   #2253
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Originally Posted by cheehtae
I don't know if this has been answered before. DJ pro module is it worht it?
Havent heard anything really positive about it since it came out. Ive been reading the 05 and the 415 threads and neither seem to rate it very well.

Took a few snap shoots of my two Tamiya racers. my TA05 with a few more hop ups and my 415.

05 hopups to date -

Front std 46mm CVDs
Rear LW 46mm CVDs
6mm Alloy hexes
Allo steering set
Hard Arms F and R
Carbon F and R suspension towers
Aramid belts F and R
TRF shocks
Titanium turnbuckles
Kimborough Mid servo saver
Sway Bar set
Alloy Rear uprights (2 Deg tot)
LW Steering servo mounts
Centre one way (not used)
Misc LW screws and alloy screws.
Protoform G6 body (awesome)

Ive replaced all the std steel screws which are up high and on the outer edge of the chassis with the lighweight ones. Therefore getting the COG as low and central as possible. Next hopup will be the Tech racing upper deck and 415 suspension blocks. With small adjustments to the upper links, this car is very easy to work with and very competitive, and i still havent found the 'perfect' setup yet.

Almost forgot to mention, pics were taken just after i reassembled the car with the new hopups, so yes i know +1 and -5 front camber wont work, neither will +7 degs toe out lol
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-dsc02397.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-dsc02398.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-dsc02399.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-dsc02402.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-dsc02396.jpg  

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Old 12-13-2005, 04:48 PM   #2254
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Should I be upgrading to a ta05 even if I'm just a basher?
I dont want another heavy weight kit. I still have the lw suspension from my other kit but I doubt that would be a significant weight change. I love the new supra body though and always like displaying tamiya kits at the shop.
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Old 12-13-2005, 07:31 PM   #2255
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rayman - you should really try driving a belt car for a change.
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:55 PM   #2256
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Originally Posted by tantalus007
rayman - you should really try driving a belt car for a change.
I did. The firstest, mostest, fastest, bestest belt driven car. The tao3!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:12 PM   #2257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheehtae
I don't know if this has been answered before. DJ pro module is it worht it?
I have heard a bit of feedback about the DJ Pro suspension, it has all been the same. From what I have heard people are improving on their personal best lap times but consistency drops. I have heard that it’s fast but inconsistent and is different from turn to turn. This is on the 415 tho, not the TA05.
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:35 PM   #2258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayman
Should I be upgrading to a ta05 even if I'm just a basher?
I dont want another heavy weight kit. I still have the lw suspension from my other kit but I doubt that would be a significant weight change. I love the new supra body though and always like displaying tamiya kits at the shop.
Go for it!! You drove my car and it came from you that you loved it..
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Old 12-13-2005, 11:41 PM   #2259
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I say go for it too. I'm nobody's idea of a great driver, but the car is so consistent and predictable that it's impossible not to get better the more you drive it.
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Old 12-14-2005, 07:42 AM   #2260
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i totally agree. The car reacts really well to chassis changes also. Mine handle like a pig when i was slack and didnt check the chassis. We also had a track change which was alot slower and tighter, and the car had WAY too little grip on the rear, so a few adjustments on the upper links, and it was sooooo smooth. Not bad for a car ive only had for two months With my new set of bling for it, we'll see what it can do
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Old 12-14-2005, 11:03 PM   #2261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayman
I did. The firstest, mostest, fastest, bestest belt driven car. The tao3!!!!!!!!

Ohh and if I may react to this... Yes my TA03R PRO still kicks a** here at my local track... I had a great time chasing HPI PRO4s, Cyclones and TA05s...

GO GET THAT TA-05 AS A CHRISTMAS PRESENT FOR YOURSELF... YOU WON'T REGRET IT!
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Old 12-15-2005, 12:46 AM   #2262
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Has anyone got problem with thread stripping on the TA05?
The car use fine threaded screws through out, and I feel they are a lot more prone to stripe than the corse threaded screws. Once the car is built, I really don't like unscrewing anything for the fear of stripping it when putting things back in. Actually this is one of the reasons about "plastic cars" that make me want to pay more for the top level cars (even I still don't have the skills to match) because they have aluminum parts and I don't need to worry about stripping the plastic.
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Old 12-15-2005, 01:59 AM   #2263
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Originally Posted by jas
Has anyone got problem with thread stripping on the TA05?
The car use fine threaded screws through out, and I feel they are a lot more prone to stripe than the corse threaded screws. Once the car is built, I really don't like unscrewing anything for the fear of stripping it when putting things back in. Actually this is one of the reasons about "plastic cars" that make me want to pay more for the top level cars (even I still don't have the skills to match) because they have aluminum parts and I don't need to worry about stripping the plastic.
Use tamiya grease in the first place.

I suggest to clean and put ca glue inside the damaged thread holes. Use toothpick to spread the glue inside the thread (not too much please ). Leave it until completely dry. Use longer screws, grease it and try again.
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Old 12-15-2005, 12:18 PM   #2264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jas
Has anyone got problem with thread stripping on the TA05?
The car use fine threaded screws through out, and I feel they are a lot more prone to stripe than the corse threaded screws. Once the car is built, I really don't like unscrewing anything for the fear of stripping it when putting things back in. Actually this is one of the reasons about "plastic cars" that make me want to pay more for the top level cars (even I still don't have the skills to match) because they have aluminum parts and I don't need to worry about stripping the plastic.
Are you saying you've had problems or that your worried about having problems?

-If you've already had problems, then I would say to use the CA trick that asw7576 suggested. You could also swap the screws in the damaged hole with a self tapping version. That will recut the threads and hold tightly.

-If your just worried about the problems, I would say don't worry. All you have to do is STOP screwing as soon as you see the screw is in and you feel resistance. Also, NO electric screw drivers while assembling. It may be easier, but its also risky and may lead to stripped screw heads and stripped holes.

And on a side note, higher priced kits aren't assured of being strip free. Aluminum parts can strip, screws can break off in them, and most high end kits still use platic or graphite composite steering knuckles. And as anyone who has raced knows, the screw holes in steering knuckles pretty much get 1 removal before the screws start backing out on their own.

I mean even motor screw holes aren't exempt from stripping concerns.

Basically ALL holes that take screws are vulnarable to stripping, whether those holes are on a $130 chassis or a $430 kit.
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Old 12-15-2005, 12:36 PM   #2265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
And on a side note, higher priced kits aren't assured of being strip free. Aluminum parts can strip, screws can break off in them, and most high end kits still use platic or graphite composite steering knuckles. And as anyone who has raced knows, the screw holes in steering knuckles pretty much get 1 removal before the screws start backing out on their own.

I mean even motor screw holes aren't exempt from stripping concerns.

Basically ALL holes that take screws are vulnarable to stripping, whether those holes are on a $130 chassis or a $430 kit.
That is so true.
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