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Old 11-24-2005, 12:49 PM   #2071
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Default set up is....

take off cs27 on all fours, 65wt ft and rear . no sways. just can't get the turn in.
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Old 11-24-2005, 12:57 PM   #2072
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Default set up is....

take off cs27 on all fours, 65wt ft and rear . no sways. just can't get the turn in. very well prepared permanent track ....very smooth ashphalt.
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Old 11-24-2005, 01:19 PM   #2073
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I would drop the weight of the shock oil and then add sway bars for stability, thats what I did on carpet.
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Old 11-24-2005, 01:22 PM   #2074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fat500
take off cs27 on all fours, 65wt ft and rear . no sways. just can't get the turn in. very well prepared permanent track ....very smooth ashphalt.
What shocks are you using ? TRF or plastic ? It makes a whole lot of difference if you're using 65W with 3 holes in the TRF or the plastic shocks. If TRF, I'd say try 55W with 3 holes. Otherwise i'd say get TRF ones, lol.

Other ideas : softer springs on front, bit of toe out, more rear droop, using C2 left C1 right instead of the opposite (front knuckles) so as to lower the front RC (make sure you re-set droop by measuring the axle's height if you do that, and you'll have to redo ride height), sway bar on rear, more angled/shorter rear upper links...
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Old 11-24-2005, 02:17 PM   #2075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fat500
take off cs27 on all fours, 65wt ft and rear . no sways. just can't get the turn in. very well prepared permanent track ....very smooth ashphalt.
What tire inserts are you using? Try softer ones. Also, take out the front stabilizer bar.
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Old 11-24-2005, 02:37 PM   #2076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brettb76
I want to use some 64 pitch gears in my car. I cannot purchase them locally so I will need to buy them from overseas on the internet.

I want to have a final ration of 6.6:1.

Will a 88 tooth spur and 30 tooth pinion fit in a TA05.

Alternatively

Will a 132 tooth spur and 45 tooth pinion fit in a TA05.

Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by brettb76
I am running in 540 class at my local club and they have a gear ratio limit of 6.6:1. I'm using 48 pitch and running 68/23 (6.652) but guys using different cars are running at 6.6:1 and have that slight edge. I want to be able to match them and 88/30 gives me the exact ratio.

I don't want to buy the parts and then have them not fit. $$$.
Because the gears are smaller than the 48 pitch gears I'm using, I'm not sure if the motor can be moved over far enough for the smaller gears to mesh.

I'm hoping someone has a TA05 and already has these gears. If you could test it for me would be great.
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Old 11-24-2005, 02:59 PM   #2077
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has anyone tried switching over to ti-screws and swing over to graphite shock towers front and rear.... saving weight? and if so how much?
Just trying to figure out if it's worth it..

thanx alot
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Old 11-24-2005, 03:48 PM   #2078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dway100
madjack
Can you post some pics of your car for us?
too....full.....must.....sleep.....

I'll make an effort to some pictures later after the turkey coma subsides
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Old 11-24-2005, 04:29 PM   #2079
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the titanium srews makes it easier to wrench on and changing to cf shock towers adds eye candy and reduces flex. Overall weight savings negligible cos the car stills weigh a tonne....i recon around 30+ grams
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Old 11-24-2005, 04:36 PM   #2080
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Default C1/C2 explanation

Since i've received a PM from someone who didn't know there was a difference between the steering knuckles on the standard suspension, I took a picture.

Here are two C2 knuckles, you can read it on the far end of the lever. You can clearly see that on the right hand one, the bearing sits lower than the other one (the knuckles are roughly placed symmetrically, if anything the right one is a bit higher on that picture).

What does this means ? Well it means if you break one and take any off your bag and end up having the same on both sides of your car, your car will be tweaked and you're unlikely to find out why. It also means that you can play with the roll centre. Using C1 on the left will set a high distance between the wheel axle and the wishbone axle. As a consequence, the roll centre will be high, making the car easy to drive. This is the standard setting on all of the tamiya cars.

Using C2 on the left will diminish the distance between the wheel axle and the wishbone axle, hence lowering the roll centre. the car will be more agressive, but less responsive too. It also changes slightly the bump steer so if you ever try this, you might want to remove 2mm of shims under the ball joint of the steering plate. You will also need to re-set the droop.

My advice is to measure your droop before flipping the knuckles over, by measuring the distance between the top of the wheel axle and the ground, with the chassis lying flat on a setup board (no wheels of course). Once you've done that, you can flip them and re-set the droop to get the same axle's height. You could also measure the ride height before flipping the knuckles, and after. The difference is the wheel axle's height difference. Then just change the droop of that amount (less precise method though but it don't require a caliper).

Hope this helps you all, sorry for the long post for those who knew it.
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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-knuckles.jpg  
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Old 11-24-2005, 04:41 PM   #2081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1shnot
has anyone tried switching over to ti-screws and swing over to graphite shock towers front and rear.... saving weight? and if so how much?
Just trying to figure out if it's worth it..

thanx alot
The plastic towers are 12g for both, and for two C/F ones you're looking at 10g so nothing worth bothering weight wise. However as it's been stated, they'll offer a much higher rigidity and so, better response to any change in damping/springs setup.
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Old 11-24-2005, 05:19 PM   #2082
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nice.... i'll try that thanx!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-24-2005, 05:52 PM   #2083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madjack
too....full.....must.....sleep.....

I'll make an effort to some pictures later after the turkey coma subsides
Hurry up... I want to see it... NOW! (this is eeyan btw... )
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Old 11-24-2005, 05:56 PM   #2084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fat500
Is the ta05 a better handling chassis. I run a tbo2 trf and is it plenty fast as the tc4 at my track but i cannot get the tight corning . Tried every possible set up. Does the 05 feel more stable and handle any better.
Should i switch to the ta05? what do you think? Thanks? Thanks for the help.
They're both very good chassis, depends pretty much on your personal preference ....shaft or belt !

From your description, I think 65W is a little too slow, try 30w or 40w (with 2 hole piston)

A few reasons why you can't turn tightly:

1) Tyres dun have enough grip.
2) Chassis setup way out.
* Camber/Caster.
* Front toe in or out/Rear toe in.
* Droop settings.
* Ride Height.
3) Shocks setting.
* Static damping (Oil/Piston combination)
* Spring stiffness.
* Shocks mounting position.
4) Drivetrain/Driving style mismatch
* Single or Double one-ways (Smooth throttle with hardly any brakes)
* Front Diff or Spool (Hard charging and heavy braking at almost apex of turn)

....theres more but I doubt anyone wanna read that !
.
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Old 11-25-2005, 12:29 PM   #2085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyaz21
Hurry up... I want to see it... NOW! (this is eeyan btw... )
alright...alright, here you go
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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-img_2959.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-img_2961.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-img_2962.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-img_2964.jpg  
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