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Old 11-19-2005, 01:06 AM   #1996
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Fred,

Dood, you have too much time to tinker!
I also stiffened the chassis with turnbucles but i didn't go overboard like you did.
I did the 1 from bulkhead to chassis, front and rear. Stole this setup from Dan. He, he, he. Works great!
Tristan hasn't done it yet buy he might soon.
You sure your not addidng too much weight to an already heavy set car, or did you put it on a diet already?

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Originally Posted by C_O_jones
Low cost (whatever is laying around in the spares pile) chassis stiffener.
The turnbuckles from the diff housing to the outboard chassis cover mounting screws, both front and rear took out about 2/3 of the chassis twist flex. Plus it also allows you to adjust tweak. The CF strap from the rear to the motor mount realy locks the tail down eliminating almost all the rear pod flex.
This setup was used for stock carpet. Sticks great and very consistent.
Not being one of the fast guys, I got help with setup from one of the local hotshoes, he plans on geting one too now.
40W AE oil, 3 hole pistons, white front yello rear springs, no sway bars.
Still has the LW rear susp and std front susp.
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Old 11-19-2005, 09:18 AM   #1997
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hey ta05 owners, and TCS runners.... got a question. I was thumbing over the TCS site, and I saw the rules for both GT2 and GT3. Was wondering why there was no GT3 results anywhere (did no one run?) at tne North America finals. =)

Also, why in the GT2 class would someone run a KIT silver can over a rebuildable stock motor? Isn't that kind of useless? The only time I've ever run a silver can was in a clodbuster.

"4. Any ROAR legal 24-degree stock motor or kit type closed-end-bell, silver can motor only. Rebuildable 27 turn 24 degree stock ROAR motors are also legal for this class. "

Lastly, for either GT2 or GT3, what do ya'll suggest that I replace on my TA05. Ive already got a list based on what I've read in the 60+ pages on this TA05 forum... just curious what you tamiya folks think. Think about it this way.. "I dont want to spend more than 120$..." =)

Thanks alot!
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Old 11-19-2005, 09:51 AM   #1998
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Hi Ramil, the rear turnbuckles are Ti, still need to dig some Ti for the front. The car is still on a diet With IB3800's and Parma Alfa body its 1583 grams.
With this setup you get rid of most of the front to rear chassis twist, when stock it will twist differently between left or right, the motor mount and str servo mounts are on the left, leading to latteral twist.Grab the shock towers and twist the chassis in both directions, you will see what does.
I used Kyosho shock spacers (cone shaped) to fill the countersunk screw holes.
It already has Ti screws and turnbuckles.
I set the car, without the wheels, on a clear sheet of plexiglass, with a stock motor at full throttle it does wild gyrations of flex in stock form, with the mods it stays stable. Look from underneith when you do that.
Fred
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Old 11-19-2005, 11:56 AM   #1999
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Sounds like too much work. I'm too lazy for that. Maybe I'll send you my ride and you can jazz it up for me?
Nothing fancy, just everything you did but better, K?
P.S. I'll send it C.O.D.

Seriously, I'll have to dig up more Ti turnbuckles and give that a try.
It might be usefull for 19T.
With stock, the car seems to be bang on with the right amount of built in flex to generate tons of traction.

That plexiglass, wild gyration thing didn't happen in a bedroom, did it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by C_O_jones
Hi Ramil, the rear turnbuckles are Ti, still need to dig some Ti for the front. The car is still on a diet With IB3800's and Parma Alfa body its 1583 grams.
With this setup you get rid of most of the front to rear chassis twist, when stock it will twist differently between left or right, the motor mount and str servo mounts are on the left, leading to latteral twist.Grab the shock towers and twist the chassis in both directions, you will see what does.
I used Kyosho shock spacers (cone shaped) to fill the countersunk screw holes.
It already has Ti screws and turnbuckles.
I set the car, without the wheels, on a clear sheet of plexiglass, with a stock motor at full throttle it does wild gyrations of flex in stock form, with the mods it stays stable. Look from underneith when you do that.
Fred
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Old 11-19-2005, 12:56 PM   #2000
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A gentleman would not speak of that, you know any?
Send me your car, COD is OK, I'm running out of spares
If you used Tamiya turnbuckles, would it be TCS legal?
Oh well, a long time to the regionals anyway.
Sushi liked it, and if he likes it, it must be GOOD
Rain City has great bite with the new rug and all the foam racers.
Now that We have FK05's, I have a lot of time on my hands, going to try foams on the MINI Cooper tommorrow !
Fred
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Old 11-19-2005, 08:00 PM   #2001
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Mits-
At the Nats they run with with slightly different rules than the regional races, more in line with Worlds rules. GT3 is not a Nats class, but GT2 with spec (not handout- you had to pay for them) silver can motors is pretty much the same thing. But you are correct, nobody runs a silver can motor at the regional races (although the fast Mabuchi guys are very close in times to the stock guys).

As far as replacement parts on a TA05, I'd start with universals and TRF shocks and precision diff outdrives...which pretty much blows your entire $120 wad. But I'd still opt for different springs, a center and front one-way, and a couple sets of tires. And an NSX body.

Later
Doc
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Old 11-20-2005, 11:09 PM   #2002
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I have a problem with my TA05 which I'm hoping someone else has encountered and knows how to fix.

After using the car for probably 25-30 minutes in practice the screw which holds the front differential together comes loose. The screw and matching nut stay inside the diff because of the foam spacers and the front dog bones but as the pressure has been released the car is now only running as rear wheel drive.

I put the diff back together (Is it just me or is that screw a fraction of an inch short) and the car was running how it is supposed to for another 25-30 minutes when the same thing happened again. I've checked the nut and it has the rubber ring which should lock it in place.

I'm only running the out-of-the-box 540 can. Any suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 11-20-2005, 11:14 PM   #2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brettb76
I have a problem with my TA05 which I'm hoping someone else has encountered and knows how to fix.

After using the car for probably 25-30 minutes in practice the screw which holds the front differential together comes loose. The screw and matching nut stay inside the diff because of the foam spacers and the front dog bones but as the pressure has been released the car is now only running as rear wheel drive.

I put the diff back together (Is it just me or is that screw a fraction of an inch short) and the car was running how it is supposed to for another 25-30 minutes when the same thing happened again. I've checked the nut and it has the rubber ring which should lock it in place.

I'm only running the out-of-the-box 540 can. Any suggestions?

Thanks
i suggest you rebuild the diff and double check whether they have included the wrong screw in your kit (which is unlikely, IMHO)...
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Old 11-21-2005, 12:41 AM   #2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brettb76
I have a problem with my TA05 which I'm hoping someone else has encountered and knows how to fix.

After using the car for probably 25-30 minutes in practice the screw which holds the front differential together comes loose. The screw and matching nut stay inside the diff because of the foam spacers and the front dog bones but as the pressure has been released the car is now only running as rear wheel drive.

I put the diff back together (Is it just me or is that screw a fraction of an inch short) and the car was running how it is supposed to for another 25-30 minutes when the same thing happened again. I've checked the nut and it has the rubber ring which should lock it in place.

I'm only running the out-of-the-box 540 can. Any suggestions?

Thanks
probably is your differential nut has spolit..i have the same problem on my car..change the nut and run for few laps..see the differential will get loose...
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Old 11-21-2005, 05:29 AM   #2005
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Any news on anyone having the xenon conversion from Speedtech yet please?
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:15 AM   #2006
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Hello from France,

I raced a 6 hours race last week-end.
Our car was a stock TA05 with F430 Body.
Options on our car: Front CVD, anti roll, center one way, aramid belts.

Tyres ( Médial Pro IAS Soft ) and motor ( GM 18x2 ) were provide at the inscription.

We finished 2nd with no problems.

the winner car is TC4 FT with a stratus 3.....

The TA05 is definetaly a good car
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Old 11-21-2005, 10:08 AM   #2007
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Our car after 6 hours ....

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Old 11-21-2005, 10:14 AM   #2008
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Wow...

Talk about time for a rebuild!
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Old 11-21-2005, 10:32 AM   #2009
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Has anyone else had issues with the outboard hinge pins breaking on the LW arm set?
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Old 11-21-2005, 11:13 AM   #2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCGaryK
Has anyone else had issues with the outboard hinge pins breaking on the LW arm set?
Hey Gary, 100's of runs on my LW- no broken or bent pins. Only have broken the rear hubs or a front ball end.
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