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Old 11-03-2005, 12:16 PM   #1846
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Alright.. There's a race with Stock Foam on CRC Ozite coming up, with pretty rounded, flowing turns, 92x48' track. I have a few Q's for my TA05...

I have hard blue on-road springs all around. Should I even go stiffer? How stiff should I have the sway bars?

I have center and front one ways, and I know ball diffs are the way to go, but should I leave the center one-way in? I have a precision diff in the front.

What kind of gearing am I looking at for a putnam-brushed monster stock?

I've never run foams on electric touring before (had to put a LOT of spacers to make them free, with only 26mm/28mm width on fronts/rears) so what kind of camber and toe should I be using? I have the stock 2-deg rear toe-in uprights.

Will setup be much different with a 19T Dynasty?

Thanks for any input,
James
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Old 11-03-2005, 12:39 PM   #1847
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Jam-ehz-ahh-fianlly SOmething Tamiya related I can answer.

Try 60/40 oil with small hole pistons. Start with a 33 lb front and a 28 lb rear spring. 1.5 uptravel in front and 2.5 in back. NO sway bars at first. I wold start without the center one-way and put it in if you need it. TIres-try Parma Cyan fronts cut to 2.30" MAX (2.25" better) and Magenta rears. Set camber at 1 de front and 2 deg rear then set so tires wear flat. Ride height should be 4.5mm. Rear toe in shold be about 1.5 to 2 degrees. And try and run 28mm width tires front to back. Narrow fronts lead to rollovers in turns and edgy handling.

Rolll out the Monster at 1.02" inches for a 90+ straight. Dependigng how fast the infield is will tell you if you want to go up one tooth or down one tooth.
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Old 11-03-2005, 12:57 PM   #1848
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Ray you beat me to it. Jamie go with everything Ray just mentioned, its pretty much as i ran mine last night at practice. Only difference, i loved it after i added a heavy front sway bar. Our track is a little tight also, so on a flowing track like ill be at this weekend, you could try a lighter bar also. Im running front ball diff, centre one way, alloy rear hubs which i assume are 2 deg as thats what it reads on the setup station. Long links, no spacers in rear, and ill also be trying 1mm more than the original setup on the front links. This will reduce steering somewhat, which will be better for the oneway under breaks, also better for a flowing track. The rest is as per the previous post.

Ray have you tried adjusting the wheelbase? Mine is stock with a spacer on each side of the arms, but was contemplating increasing the wheelbase for more stability on the flowing turns. Im doing just that to my 415, as all the guns have suggested that.

I also ran it on purple double purple 28mm jacos, which handled great even without sauce. Ill be running jaco double pink/orange, double pink this weekend. Ill get up some more pics of my 05 soon. My 415 came with a stack of spare blue parts which are slowly finding there way onto the 05
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Old 11-03-2005, 01:36 PM   #1849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Rolll out the Monster at 1.02" inches for a 90+ straight. Dependigng how fast the infield is will tell you if you want to go up one tooth or down one tooth.
what does it mean? I also run carpet and my gearing is 93/28 which makes my motor too hot, i'm going to go down 1 tooth this weekend, BTW when I ued a 93/30 there was no punch coming out of the corner that's the reason why I went down to two teeth which is still fast and has power coming out of the turns, and they are 64 pitches-

what I'm using-

Monster stock pro
93/28 --64 pitch with installed fan and heat sink
dbl pink orange and dbl pink tires--front and rear respectively
my tires diameter was 59

need input guys
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Old 11-03-2005, 01:46 PM   #1850
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Originally Posted by MDawson
Selling off the remaining of my Tamiya stuff.

Here is my latest project, TA05.

http://www.fictionlab.com/mdreel/Daw...roject2005.wmv

PM me or look at the listing in Sell Thread http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...28#post1906528

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Old 11-03-2005, 01:51 PM   #1851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheehtae
what does it mean? I also run carpet and my gearing is 93/28 which makes my motor too hot, i'm going to go down 1 tooth this weekend, BTW when I ued a 93/30 there was no punch coming out of the corner that's the reason why I went down to two teeth which is still fast and has power coming out of the turns, and they are 64 pitches-

what I'm using-

Monster stock pro
93/28 --64 pitch with installed fan and heat sink
dbl pink orange and dbl pink tires--front and rear respectively
my tires diameter was 59

need input guys
im sure ray will chime in later. but what he means by that is rollout. when racing on carpet with foams, guys use rollout since the diameter of their foams are different from car to car. this helps closely match someone's gear ratio along with their tire size etc... with asphalt guys, we tend to use the FDR since tires are usually/generally the same diameter.
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Old 11-03-2005, 02:12 PM   #1852
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Here comes my total n00b-in-aweness comment:

Holy crap!! How the hell do you determine all that from the description listed?? Mind you, I wouldn't even be able to arrive at all these settings with the car in front of me, let alone by simply 'conceptualizing' the situation!

Impressive... Most impressive...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Jam-ehz-ahh-fianlly SOmething Tamiya related I can answer.

Try 60/40 oil with small hole pistons. Start with a 33 lb front and a 28 lb rear spring. 1.5 uptravel in front and 2.5 in back. NO sway bars at first. I wold start without the center one-way and put it in if you need it. TIres-try Parma Cyan fronts cut to 2.30" MAX (2.25" better) and Magenta rears. Set camber at 1 de front and 2 deg rear then set so tires wear flat. Ride height should be 4.5mm. Rear toe in shold be about 1.5 to 2 degrees. And try and run 28mm width tires front to back. Narrow fronts lead to rollovers in turns and edgy handling.

Rolll out the Monster at 1.02" inches for a 90+ straight. Dependigng how fast the infield is will tell you if you want to go up one tooth or down one tooth.
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Old 11-03-2005, 02:19 PM   #1853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
Ray have you tried adjusting the wheelbase? Mine is stock with a spacer on each side of the arms, but was contemplating increasing the wheelbase for more stability on the flowing turns. Im doing just that to my 415, as all the guns have suggested that.

I also ran it on purple double purple 28mm jacos, which handled great even without sauce. Ill be running jaco double pink/orange, double pink this weekend. Ill get up some more pics of my 05 soon. My 415 came with a stack of spare blue parts which are slowly finding there way onto the 05
I have not-but if the car reacts like a RDX-then longer wheelbase front or rear is more steering. Longer in the back loosens up rear, but maybe at the cost of consistency. I never change the front-always in the middle.
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Old 11-03-2005, 02:31 PM   #1854
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Great input, thanks. Now, what are the equivalent weights for Tamiya springs? I don't think they quite advertise what they really are..

Now, as if you didn't answer enough of my questions , how would this change with a 19T Dynasty, or is this setup good for all speeds?

Thanks a bunch,
James
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Old 11-03-2005, 02:36 PM   #1855
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Stock and 19 shouldnt be too different. if you were going to mod, then you would probably need more steering. If you find you need more steering, take out some of the spacers on the inside of the camber link, making it lower. i didnt like this change in stock, gave the car way too much steering for my liking. Send an email to me at [email protected] and ill send you a excel sheet with diff manufacturers spring loads, got it from a guy on the 415 thread.
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Old 11-03-2005, 02:52 PM   #1856
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oh and on a side note, has anyone seen how the older black plastic ring preload adjusters on the gun metal trf shocks are skinnier than the new blue preload adjusters? I think this might be the source of my ride height problems. my blue adjusters are to the top and i still have 5mm of ride height! might be able to gain about 1-2mm if i change it to the black plastic.... but thats taking off some of its bling!
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Old 11-03-2005, 04:43 PM   #1857
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One more thing with the camber, Ray, make it 1 or 2 degrees and set so tires wear flat.. what does this mean? Does it only apply to tires already worn at an angle, otherwise just make them a straight 1 or 2 degrees for trued tires?
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Old 11-03-2005, 06:04 PM   #1858
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You start out with 1 deg neg. in the front and 2 deg. neg. in the rear and after running a pack or 2 adjust so that they are wearing flat...I have about -1.5 in the front and -2.0 in the rear so that the foams don't wear unevenly.
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Old 11-03-2005, 07:07 PM   #1859
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Anyone know where I can get diff parts? I am in need a diff t-nut. I traded for a TA05 that has one precision diff and a oneway, but I would like to build another diff and I have all the parts except the plastic t-nut. Thanks
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Old 11-03-2005, 07:36 PM   #1860
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Exclamation Shorter Tamiya springs!

Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
oh and on a side note, has anyone seen how the older black plastic ring preload adjusters on the gun metal trf shocks are skinnier than the new blue preload adjusters? I think this might be the source of my ride height problems. my blue adjusters are to the top and i still have 5mm of ride height! might be able to gain about 1-2mm if i change it to the black plastic.... but thats taking off some of its bling!
If you want to lower the ride height without changing the bling adjusters, you can use the Tamiya TRF spring which are shorter. They used these with the TA04 TRF shock towers. They were so much shorter then the originals they had to shorten the lengths. I believe they still make them in all the colors, including gray and purple. This might be an option for you! I believe some of the past champ TCS racers used these springs.
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