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Old 10-24-2005, 05:00 PM   #1756
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man ive had this car for about 3 weeks and ive only ran it once. shame

but i have some questions

for the people who bought the blue screws from screws express or gs, how close is the blue to the tamiya blue? noticable? same?

also, where can i get some blue turnbuckles? i want tamiya once, but they cost too much, tips on where to buy highly appreciated

another thing is, what are the suspension mounts that are in the kit? which ones are they?A?B?C? and i should use the evo4 ones right?
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Old 10-24-2005, 05:29 PM   #1757
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My GS screws are as close as could be. I am waiting on an order from Fastener-Express..but if memory serves me, they were very close too.

The Tamiya blue turnbuckles are aluminum...not great for longevity. Associated makes blue titanium turnbuckles, but they aren't close to the Tamiya blue.
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Old 10-24-2005, 06:17 PM   #1758
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TA05 LW suspension now available...from Japan.
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Old 10-24-2005, 08:59 PM   #1759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seatbelt
So what have you guys decided as the most beneficial hopups to the car?
LW suspension with universals.
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:03 PM   #1760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aparatchik
I found out as much!! Ran the car yesterday on a clean asphalt surface with some borrowed CS22/27's, and was getting a lot more bite. Wear pattern on the tires indicated that the setup was pretty good on the whole. Still dealing with some snap oversteer when coming off the throttle, though.

I'm also learning that I need a LOT of practice, and that the the TA05 is extremely sturdy!!
Those tires will do a much better job.

As for the oversteer, try keeping the rear diff as loose as possible without slipping
Tighten the front as much as possible without breaking. Your trying to get as close to a spool action as possible.
I run a spool for the front myself and the car is dialed. I still need to trim off a bit of steering on carpet with the cs22.
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Old 10-25-2005, 03:51 AM   #1761
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Whats the word on a full-blown TA05-R kit with all the goodies?!?!?
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Old 10-25-2005, 05:31 AM   #1762
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Default Tamiya TA-05

I went to the IHobby Show in L.A. this week and I have a picture
of the TA-05 from the show.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-ta05show.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-ta05hop.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-ta05rear.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-ta05frnt.jpg  

Last edited by Key500; 10-25-2005 at 05:49 AM.
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:54 AM   #1763
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Now available, Tech Racing TA05 suspension set.

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Old 10-25-2005, 09:57 AM   #1764
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Default TA-05 Suspension Blocks, Rear Uprights and Toe-in

I have been looking into the rear Toe-in issue and this is what I can say for now:

First, I have a TB-Evo III, and I can say that the Evo III (and the TB-02) come with the same suspension arms and uprights as the TA-05, but there is a difference in the width of the mounts of the upper arms, so that the upper arms on the Evo III are generally shorter than the TA-05. Also the mounting blocks are taller by 1 mm. So one has to be careful when reading the Evo III and TB-02 forums (and probably the TA-04/414 forum) because the setups do
not always mean the same thing.

According to messages in the "Tamiya TB-Evolution III" forum on page 190, message #5684 "Bubblestc3" notes that the standard rear uprights have 2 degrees Toe-In. He calls them "hubs", but he is talking about the uprights. He is not the only one to say this in the Evo III forum, so I have no doubt about it.

In message #5880 on page 196, "hemi426" reported measuring the Evo III blocks "from the outside of the socket hole to the outside of the other socket hole." This is not the same as the way I measure them (from the centers of the holes) but the information overall should be the same if you adjust
a couple of mm.

A 48,4mm
B 49,3mm
C 50,0mm
D 51,0mm

I have compared a couple of blocks, and the hole spacing on the TRF-415 blocks seem to be the same as the Evo III blocks. As I said above, the only difference seems to be that they are 1 mm lower on the TRF-415 blocks. I have a complete set of "X" series blocks, so I might post that data later.

On page 212, in message #6334, "V12" says that the effect of changing the rear block (given that the forward block is "A") is a change in degrees of:

A=0
B=0.5
C=1
D=1.5

But "jeffreylin" wrote on page 189, message #5668 "I currently run the C block which supposedly give you 3 degree of toe in but it's closer to 2.5 according to my set up station." So the adjustments are only approximate.

Looking at the TA-05 rear, there is definitely an angle between the rear hinge pins. I think the standard setup is probably 2.5 or 3 degrees toe-in. Eventually, when I get around to rebuilding the back end, I will probably remember to measure the forward mounting block, but that will probably not be for a while. Maybe someone will measure the actual angles on a setup station and report it. I cannot do that yet.

If you want to start playing with the mounting blocks I suggest that you change to Universals before doing so. The length of universals do not have to be as precise a fit as "dogbones". If you start swapping blocks you will have to check the length of your dogbones and either change them at the same time or change the sponges and O-ring spacers for them, to compensate for the difference. Doing this is "not fun".

Also, if you want to reduce the Toe-in, you can also upgrade to "OP-687/53687 TB Evolution III Aluminum Rear Upright (1 degree)". This is a better part because it increases the options for the upper arm mount.

Last edited by MobileIT; 10-25-2005 at 10:02 AM. Reason: Formatting
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:14 AM   #1765
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Wow... either you have fantastic searching skills, or you have entirely too much time on your hands!! Either way, that's some excellent sleuthing and some good info!
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:55 AM   #1766
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I guess one question you can ask from all of that is what's better,

A) a 2-degree toe-in rear upright and maybe .5 to 1 degree made up from the suspension block,
or
B) a 0 or 1 degree upright and the majority of the toe-in set from the suspension blocks?

I'm just asking because every degree you set from the suspension blocks, the arms themselves are also tilted forward by that amount, resulting in a different weight distribution, however minimal as it may be.

Has anyone found if it actually makes a difference? Does anyone use suspension blocks to make front toe out as opposed to just turning the turnbuckles?
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Old 10-25-2005, 06:07 PM   #1767
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What is the widest tire size you can put on this car ? standard suspension, 6mm wheel hexes.

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Old 10-25-2005, 06:09 PM   #1768
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I've got 28mm foams on mine with NO clearence problems
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Old 10-25-2005, 07:17 PM   #1769
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Thanks.
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Old 10-25-2005, 08:27 PM   #1770
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Talking New graphite composite chassis!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Key500
I went to the IHobby Show in L.A. this week and I have a picture
of the TA-05 from the show.
I was there also and I noticed Tamiya North America still doesn't have the new tub chassis. Fred told me that it is not only lighter with all the added holes but it is made out of graphite and plastic instead of fiberglass and plastic which is what the original tub is made out of and that I didn't know, so this is what the TA04-R chassis was made out of graphite and plastic! Right? If you get this chassis you better be real careful not to short out your batteries against this chassis if not major glitches will occur! I had problems with that on the 04 because of the tight fit using side packs. The 04 tub was designed for stick packs where as the 05 is designed for the side by side battery config.!!!!!!
Just my 2cents!
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