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Old 10-17-2005, 04:30 PM   #1681
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We will need more information that that Is the steering binding? or are you just not getting the 'throw' of the steering. If its not binding, it could be a combination of the radio/servo that has a small steering range. If its binding, then thats another issue. If it is binding, post a pic if possible and explain where its binding.

If its the radio/servo setup, let us know what your using and we will see if we can help

-Aaron
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Old 10-17-2005, 04:39 PM   #1682
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ok the steering is really free and theres no tight spots etc.
Ive taken the front brace off to have a look and theres nothing in the way.
Even if I have the servo disconnected it makes no difference. The ball cups when on full lock touch the inner steering arms but theres no way of changing that I will post a pic.

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Old 10-17-2005, 04:49 PM   #1683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim fry
Guys

Need a bit of help.
Just built my new Ta05 and there seems to be a distinct lack of steering. Its got less throw than my old Baracuda R3 and that was bad! Ive taken it apart to see if I have built it wrong and it seems to be correct. Is there possibly something I've missed or is that it?

Tim
I had the same problem make sure on the steering bellcrank the part that's in the middle is in the right direction if it's you'll have limited steering.
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Old 10-17-2005, 04:53 PM   #1684
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Default Spur Gear

Can someone tell if they had any problems with a noisy spur gear?. Also if you turn the spur gear by hand with your motor in should it be pretty quiet intead of making like a ping sound...
Thanks;
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Old 10-17-2005, 04:54 PM   #1685
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Ok pics of car on full lockhttp://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ry/TA05003.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ry/TA05001.jpg
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Old 10-17-2005, 04:56 PM   #1686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Key500
I had the same problem make sure on the steering bellcrank the part that's in the middle is in the right direction if it's you'll have limited steering.
Ah I think thats it

Thanks for that
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:23 PM   #1687
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Connect your steering turnbuckles to the inner hole on the steering knuckle. This will solve the problem
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:37 PM   #1688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheehtae
I am probabaly running a little heavy because I was using a 3800 on my first raced and 3rd race, and all of the guys there racing were all CF chassis. I am already thinking of lightening my car, like going alum on my swing shafts, high prec. diff joints, titanium screws and we were following the IFMAR rules and no weight regulations.One more thing ARAMID BELTS are they a must?
If you are running Stock class then forget about 3800's. They are heavy and you will not use up the charge. The winner of the Tamiya TCS GP2 class won by falling back to 3000 batteries and using the lighter weight advantage to beat the guys running higher batteries. I would suggest 3300's.

Also, do not use the battery holder pieces. They are surprisingly heavy. Cut slots in frame in front and behind the battery compartment and use strapping tape.

Then consider your suspension system. If you want to buy the Light Weight suspension kit, then this is a good time to do so. If not, then you can make a minor weight saving by cutting out internal bracing in the suspension arms. I will assume you are using the stock (soft) arms. If so, then just cut out the farthers out brace -- the braces nearest the wheels. If you remove all the braces it will soften the arms to the point you will probably notice too much. If you have the optional "hard" arms, then I have heard that some racers have run reasonably successfully with all the internal bracing in the arms removed. But obviously, if you have not bought the hard arms and weight is an issue, then buying the real "light weight" kit is probably a better way to spend the money.

But at this point we are starting to talk "money money money money. . . ." I usually wait till parts brake and upgrade in that priority, which is disorganized and not optimal from a performance standpoint. I make up for it by tuning and driving the best I can. :-)

If you want to minimize your spending and get best performance for your changes, then I suggest the following order of priority:

1. Pieces that lighten spinning things come first, and the higher the spin speed (pinion gear comes first) and farther out to the wheels, the better (axle stubs *before* the the dogbones).

2. Pieces that move in the suspension come next (the ball heads that hold the shocks on the arms are probably more important than 2 or 3 screws in the chassis).

3. Pieces higher up on the car are more important than lower pieces (the screws on the bottom middle of the chassis are probably not worth changing at all, and in fact on some cars you *want* the extra weight there so you are shooting yourself in the foot).

[Later added comment: Hah! I just checked my car and the 2 middle screws on the TA05 chassis are particularly long and heavy screws which I happened to have in titanium, so I changed them first. Well, I was only thinking in generalities when I wrote this message.]

As for the Aramid belts, for stock class they are more important than for Open class, but they do not lighten anything. They are simply more efficient.

Last edited by MobileIT; 10-17-2005 at 08:23 PM. Reason: Added comment
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Old 10-17-2005, 08:33 PM   #1689
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Jumping jupiter thanks mobileIT for all your advice, I ahve alredy printed your post so I'll know what to do.
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Old 10-17-2005, 08:54 PM   #1690
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lol u read my mind cheetah. lol i was printing it and iread ur post. lol
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Old 10-18-2005, 01:44 AM   #1691
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Just built my 05 for this weekend's big race in stock, on carpet using rubber tires. My friend built on at the same time for the same race.

My first reaction is this thing is quiet! It is even quieter than my 415.
You had to strin hard to hear my car running even if i was the only car on the track.
Second reaction is this car is smooth and carries corner speed well.

We were on pace most of the weekend to carry TQ but there are some problems with the car. The plastic diff outdrives do not take punishment well.
The fix is to dremel slots and add a ring around the outdrives.

The cars were built basically stock except for the lightweight suspension. I used all steel screws, and even used the plastic shocks.

The final result for me did not bo as well as I liked but my friend's 05 finished 1st. Agains all commers such as TC4, Pro 4, X-rays and even a 415MSX.
Some people could not believe the car is a tub Tamiya.

I am very impressed with this car's potential and cannot wait to see what it can do if I put this thing on a little diet, stiffen it a little(not necessary for stock), and do battle in 19T class.
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Old 10-18-2005, 02:31 AM   #1692
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wow this car should get car of the year. i mean if its able to beat cars like 415msx's and pro4's, it deserves something. cant wait to see a Carbon FIber Conversion from tamiya.

if u ask me, this car rocks.
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Old 10-18-2005, 06:03 AM   #1693
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Hi Key 500

If you read about 2 pages back, I had problems with a noisy spur- check 2 things: firstly examine VERY carefully whether there is something small stuck between either the spur or pinon gear. Secondly, and more possibly, check that your screws that keep the spur attached to the center pulley are screwed in tight. I lost one of my screws and I'm battling to find replacements! There is space for 4 screws to attach the spur to the center pulley and I recommend using all 4 instead of the TA05 manual's prescription of 2 screws! hope this helps.
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Old 10-18-2005, 10:00 AM   #1694
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Just finished building the car last night and installed the VFS-1. I've only taken a test run around the house, but I don't really think I've noticed it being quieter than other cars I've had. What should I expect as far as quietness/noise?
Also, what should I expect as far as free spin? Will the drivetrain free up over time, or should I be worried that things are binding?
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Old 10-18-2005, 10:41 AM   #1695
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How many teeth does the diff pully have?
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