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Old 10-09-2005, 07:38 PM   #1576
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Ok...I am going to list just the changes from the stock manual setup.

Front:
Assoc. 60wt. oil
3 hole piston
Assoc. Purple spring (30lb)
1.5 mm droop above ride height
Toe-1 deg out
4.5mm ride height

Rear:
Assoc. 40 wt oil
2 hole piston
Assoc. Copper spring
2 mm droop above ride height
5mm ride height

Everything else is set to the manual...diffs relatively loose, but no slipping.

I ran Plaid Parma foams cut to 59mm in front and I ran Purple Parma foams in rear cut to 59mm

Gearing on a medium flowing track with a Chameleon 2 was 104/32-33
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Old 10-09-2005, 08:15 PM   #1577
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Just added some pics of my car in the for sale forum.
Thanks
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Old 10-09-2005, 09:50 PM   #1578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickRosie
Okay, maybe I sould explain my situation a little better! I recently (2 weeks ago) bought and built a TA05. I've added TRF shocks, TA05 front and rear damper stays and a stabilizer kit. Apart from these, my car is set up according to the manual!

My issue- I'm due to compete in my second race meeting (Tamiya Cup) after my first was dismal to say the least. Didn't finish either of my 2 qualifiers and came second last in the main race.

The track has two large straights which I'd like to capitalize on. At the end of both straights are two sharp corners and the rest of the track is made up of fast, long corners.

I plan to race superstock with either a Tamiya TZ or RZ motor. If anyone has a similar type car and setup to mine, I would REALLY appreciate any advise in terms of general setup, shock setup, stabilizers or anything else! I am desparate to compete properly!
There are a number of setups described within the last 10 - 15 pages of this discussion. Read those and you will know a lot of what is known about this car so far. You have not really said much about the track (not even if it is carpet or asphalt), nor have you said what happened that stopped you from finishing in your 2 qualifiers.

A basic question: Do you know the difference between a car that is "loose" and a car that is "tight"?
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:21 AM   #1579
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sorry about that! I didn't finish my 2 qualifiers cos of an old battery dumping and my car oversteering intensely due to a diff that was too tight. (I found this out a week later from guys at the track.) The track is asphalt.

Do I know the difference between a loose and tight car? No, I'm new to RC car racing.
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:13 AM   #1580
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If anyone's interested, my TA-05 is for sale. It's assembled and ran once but in immaculate condition.
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:57 AM   #1581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickRosie
sorry about that! I didn't finish my 2 qualifiers cos of an old battery dumping and my car oversteering intensely due to a diff that was too tight. (I found this out a week later from guys at the track.) The track is asphalt.

Do I know the difference between a loose and tight car? No, I'm new to RC car racing.
Well that sounds like a good start. I also forgot to ask what body you are using, which is a major question. If you are racing Tamiya series then you have to use a Tamiya body. Some of the others may have an opinion about them. I do not race Tamiya series at all, so I ignore Tamiya bodies. If you can find one, try for a "high downforce" body, particularly in the rear of the car. I bought the Mercedes because it was closer to a normal Touring Car, which is what I will be running.

On "Tech RC" I have found that we are using the NASCAR language. So "loose" means "oversteer" and "tight" means "understeer" and is the same as "push". Thank Tom Cruise for that because before "Days of Thunder" nobody outside of stock car racing used the terms that way, but if you try to read this board, those are the terms you will run into the most.

My first general piece of advice it is to change the front end setup. The ball ends on the steering uprights are on the "back" holes. But the "front" holes should cause the front to "push" the farther the wheels are turned, which is "progressive" and better in most cases than simply adding "toe-out" (which is just pointing the wheels further apart). You might have to add "toe-out" also, but do this after you try changing the holes. Also, when you do this, you will have to "back off" (reduce) the steering on your transmitter because the front holes increase the steering effect. This is a very large adjustment and you might not like the result, that is why I recommend trying it early. Personally, I am still trying to use the setup in the manual, but I am not really taking racing as seriously as most everyone else here -- "I'm just here turning laps (and hopefully not hitting stuff :-)".

Last edited by MobileIT; 10-10-2005 at 12:03 PM. Reason: Wrong terminology
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:20 AM   #1582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thai3g_Eclipse
If anyone's interested, my TA-05 is for sale. It's assembled and ran once but in immaculate condition.
Tempted, good second car, PM me with specs.
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Old 10-10-2005, 11:22 AM   #1583
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Well, Ran the car this weekend. Got 3rd in Mod at the Mazda Cup2005. I had charger Issues so i wasnt getting a good full charge. I was qualified 2nd and DUMPED HARD in the Mains. I would have had at least 2nd Locked.

On Sunday at La Mirada, I got 3rd in Mabuchi CLass and 1st in 19 Turn. The car is just plain AWESOME! I finally added Universals and teh CF damperstays. I ended up using my Rhino Charger and guess what..i won!!!

Here is that i ran:
Alum shox 3 hole pistons 70 wt frnt/60wt rear
Blue Springs Fr/yellow rear
Red Fr/rr/ swaybars
center/front oneways
Lightweight outdrives in rear
Using a Protoform Mazda 6 Body

I tell you teh car is the most stable car i have ever driven!
Tires were TOP H10's.

My 2 cents
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Old 10-10-2005, 11:51 AM   #1584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie_b
Well, Ran the car this weekend. Got 3rd in Mod at the Mazda Cup2005. I had charger Issues so i wasnt getting a good full charge. I was qualified 2nd and DUMPED HARD in the Mains. I would have had at least 2nd Locked.

On Sunday at La Mirada, I got 3rd in Mabuchi CLass and 1st in 19 Turn. The car is just plain AWESOME! I finally added Universals and teh CF damperstays. I ended up using my Rhino Charger and guess what..i won!!!

Here is that i ran:
Alum shox 3 hole pistons 70 wt frnt/60wt rear
Blue Springs Fr/yellow rear
Red Fr/rr/ swaybars
center/front oneways
Lightweight outdrives in rear
Using a Protoform Mazda 6 Body

I tell you teh car is the most stable car i have ever driven!
Tires were TOP H10's.

My 2 cents
Hey Charlie , your Tire is TOP L10 for low traction track seem parking lot.
I got in your same 19T class 3rd , TA05 with TOP L20 tire
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Old 10-10-2005, 12:06 PM   #1585
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Sorry, I used the wrong terminology. I meant to say to change the hole used in the "Front Uprights" (I said "arms" before which probably caused confusion). Oh well.

Also, I guess you will be looking into new batteries and possibly a new charger.
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Old 10-10-2005, 02:36 PM   #1586
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Looking for a spec rubber tire carpet set up for a TA05.

Just got a new TA05 with the following hop ups:
TRF shocks
Front One Way
Center One Way
Lt. Weight Suspension
Carbon Fiber Shock Towers

Any set-up help would be appreshated.
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Old 10-10-2005, 02:47 PM   #1587
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I am thinking of buying this car for my kids to race and I have a few questions.

1- What is the quality of the plastic components like? I am only familiar with older Tamiya cars and they had a lot of slop from new, and wore parts out quickly. Is this car the same or have they improved thier plastics?

2- What are the better front driveshafts, Tamiya or Cross?

3- The car comes with the older style suspension (not LW style), is this a disadvantage or is there only a little difference?

4- Do you have to cut any part of the servo case to get it to fit?

5- Has anyone raced it with the stock Mercedes body? Is the Merc body even legal?

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Old 10-10-2005, 05:13 PM   #1588
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1. As far as I have seen with people bashing their off road kits with the same type of plastic they should hold up very well, but all cars have their weeknesses.

2. I have no idea.

3. Not much difference.

4. No

5. Depends on where you race and even if they want you racing a certian type of body they will probaly let you race it once or twice.
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:15 PM   #1589
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actually, it does require part of one ear cut off the servo.
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Old 10-11-2005, 09:27 AM   #1590
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Thanks for the great advice MobileIT! I've changed the holes and I'll be testing the change at my local track tomorrow and yes, I understand understeer and oversteer now that you mentioned the difference in terminology!

I've been running with the std Merc body but recently bought a the Suburu Legacy body which apparantly handles unbelievably well. Haven't tested it yet.

I bought three 2400mAh packs (tamiya cup regulation) and a better charger. These seem to have made a world of difference in terms of run times and have given me more room to play with higher gearing without my packs dumping midway through races!
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