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Old 11-27-2012, 04:35 PM   #1
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Default blinky mode 13.5 1S lipo

Right, we all know that no one can agree that all blinky mode speed controls are the same, so I have another question.

Running 1S lipo, 13.5, blinky..... My gearing was the same as 95% of the other drivers and our speeds were comparable......Bar one who was also running the same ratio but was soooo much faster. I am not talking corner speed, I am talking out right speed.

I was running a core 1S speed control and lipo with a fixed timing speed passion motor.

Q1. Do lipos make a difference in Binky?
Q2. Do motors make a difference in blinky?
Q3. Does motor advance make a difference to speed, or is it just easier to find the sweet spspot for the motor?

Thanks
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:57 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wide_mouth_frog View Post
Right, we all know that no one can agree that all blinky mode speed controls are the same, so I have another question.

Running 1S lipo, 13.5, blinky..... My gearing was the same as 95% of the other drivers and our speeds were comparable......Bar one who was also running the same ratio but was soooo much faster. I am not talking corner speed, I am talking out right speed.

I was running a core 1S speed control and lipo with a fixed timing speed passion motor.

Q1. Do lipos make a difference in Binky?
Q2. Do motors make a difference in blinky?
Q3. Does motor advance make a difference to speed, or is it just easier to find the sweet spot for the motor?

Thanks
Q1. Yes: But similar rated lipos, from same generation across most brands should be close.
A year or 2 old 4000, will most likely be off the pace from a new 6500+
Q2. Yes. Every motor brand has a unique sweet spot, with timing and roll, and this is not always the same for every driver, esc, and car
Q3. See Q2
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:40 PM   #3
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Yes, yes and yes. Blinky does NOT mean everything is equal. Batteries play a bigger role than ever, different motors and even different rotors in the same motor make a big difference, gearing is critical and timing is HUGE.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:03 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by wide_mouth_frog View Post
Running 1S lipo, 13.5, blinky..... My gearing was the same as 95% of the other drivers and our speeds were comparable......Bar one who was also running the same ratio but was soooo much faster. I am not talking corner speed, I am talking out right speed.
Everyone has made good points but ..

You must also take into account the car setup and driver.

If your competitors car is setup in a way that allows him to get on the throttle far earlier than you, then his car will be faster. Also, if his car allows him to hardly ever get off the throttle, he will be faster.

Just something to consider.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:25 AM   #5
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Many thanks for all your replies, I have been racing for many years but always tc, with turbo... And that tends to mask a lot of things.

In the US, have you guys found a motor/cell combination that works best or is it all much the muchness?
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wide_mouth_frog View Post
Many thanks for all your replies, I have been racing for many years but always tc, with turbo... And that tends to mask a lot of things.

In the US, have you guys found a motor/cell combination that works best or is it all much the muchness?
There are many motors/batteries that seem to work well and at the end of the race the car setup tends to drive the results. 13.5 blinky is still slow enough that the ability of the car to carry corner speed is paramount.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:51 PM   #7
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There are many motors/batteries that seem to work well and at the end of the race the car setup tends to drive the results. 13.5 blinky is still slow enough that the ability of the car to carry corner speed is paramount.
Indeed it is - it was just one was extremely quick, we are all using 3200 which are 25c, so I think that was the main issue LOL
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:37 AM   #8
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What would you say makes the most difference to straight line speed in blinky?
Cells
Motor
Motor advance
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:25 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by wide_mouth_frog View Post
What would you say makes the most difference to straight line speed in blinky?
Cells
Motor
Motor advance
That's a broad question
But if we take into account the hardware you were running
"3200 which are 25c
Fixed timing speed passion motor."

All of the above would be quite far off the pace, just a guess, at least .5s a lap, perhaps less in the first minute or so, but then fade would set in, where proper gear will run fast all 8m long

A race motor needs race fuel to run at it's best (fresh good lipo)
Even with race fuel, and old motor design isn't going to light the world on fire
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:23 AM   #10
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I was running a core 1S speed control and lipo with a fixed timing speed passion motor.
Is the faster driver running the same motor and ESC, a better quality ESC will get a little more voltage through to the motor but a bigger difference will be changing to a better motor.

Assuming he is using the same ESC/motor combo, then the motor will run faster with a newer or higher capacity battery. All lipos should start the race at 8.4v, but higher capacity lipos will maintain that voltage for longer. As the battery is used the voltage will drop. If you use half the batteries capacity in the race, a higher capacity pack might only use a third or a quarter of the capacity in the same race, so keeping the average voltage higher.

Then there is car setup and driving style. If your car can carry more speed through the corners you will also be faster down the straights.
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:08 PM   #11
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What great answers, thank you.

He was running lrp speedo and cells....

Thanks again
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:15 PM   #12
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Keep in mind that motor setup matters too. At a recent race the TQ and I (2nd) both ran Thunder Power 13.5's. He ran a red rotor (12.3mm hi-torque) and 35deg timing. I ran a green rotor (12.5mm hi-torque) and 30 deg timing. We were the exact same speed but he was geared 42/88 and I was 46/88.

I pick a safe gear and start gearing up until I see temps over 160deg F (that never happens. Even over geared my motor never tops 140 deg F) or fading of lap times late in a run.

If your motor is used. Do yourself a favor and get a new rotor. It it was raced hard (run too hot) in a sedan the rotor could have weakened.

Car setup matters too. Wednesday I was turning 8.8sec laps in practice. A few changes to the rear suspension (one at a time with a few laps to check the result of each change) and I was turning 8.5's.

Driving mattters too. If I blow a few corners i'll be in the low 9's. If I place the car well so I maximize corner speed and momentum i'm in the mid 8's.

Blinky racing in pan cars with 17.5 to 10.5 motors is all about driving precision, car setups that have corner speed and smooth enough to let you drive a full race with no bobbles.

I dont think that batteries are a big deal unless yours pack are abused. I can go just as fast with a well cared for 1.5 year old IP 5600 50c pack as my OHP 6300's and Reedy 6500's.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry.sc View Post
Is the faster driver running the same motor and ESC, a better quality ESC will get a little more voltage through to the motor but a bigger difference will be changing to a better motor.

Assuming he is using the same ESC/motor combo, then the motor will run faster with a newer or higher capacity battery. All lipos should start the race at 8.4v, but higher capacity lipos will maintain that voltage for longer. As the battery is used the voltage will drop. If you use half the batteries capacity in the race, a higher capacity pack might only use a third or a quarter of the capacity in the same race, so keeping the average voltage higher.
4.2v not 8.4v for 1s lipo
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Keep in mind that motor setup matters too. At a recent race the TQ and I (2nd) both ran Thunder Power 13.5's. He ran a red rotor (12.3mm hi-torque) and 35deg timing. I ran a green rotor (12.5mm hi-torque) and 30 deg timing. We were the exact same speed but he was geared 42/88 and I was 46/88.

I pick a safe gear and start gearing up until I see temps over 160deg F (that never happens. Even over geared my motor never tops 140 deg F) or fading of lap times late in a run.

If your motor is used. Do yourself a favor and get a new rotor. It it was raced hard (run too hot) in a sedan the rotor could have weakened.

Car setup matters too. Wednesday I was turning 8.8sec laps in practice. A few changes to the rear suspension (one at a time with a few laps to check the result of each change) and I was turning 8.5's.

Driving mattters too. If I blow a few corners i'll be in the low 9's. If I place the car well so I maximize corner speed and momentum i'm in the mid 8's.

Blinky racing in pan cars with 17.5 to 10.5 motors is all about driving precision, car setups that have corner speed and smooth enough to let you drive a full race with no bobbles.

I dont think that batteries are a big deal unless yours pack are abused. I can go just as fast with a well cared for 1.5 year old IP 5600 50c pack as my OHP 6300's and Reedy 6500's.
A 5000+ lipo pack would be awesome compared to what he is using
I doubt a new rotor will do much to sort out a fixed timing motor either

In fact, I've never even heard of a 3200 1s

"3200 which are 25c
Fixed timing speed passion motor."
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:56 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
4.2v not 8.4v for 1s lipo


A 5000+ lipo pack would be awesome compared to what he is using
I doubt a new rotor will do much to sort out a fixed timing motor either

In fact, I've never even heard of a 3200 1s

"3200 which are 25c
Fixed timing speed passion motor."
Sorry, i missed that last part.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:50 AM   #15
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Outstanding thread, thanks all for joining. I'll visit often.

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