What are the most important tuning settings on a 10th TC?
11-08-2012, 08:24 AM
#31
I found this post very interesting,as I have had all four corners ok,but the car was tweaked when I throw it on my Hudy setup station,which I do in between runs.
So basically,I think a good rule is weight distribution is a great guide,but not actually right for checking tweak.
What do you think?
Cheers
Tim
So basically,I think a good rule is weight distribution is a great guide,but not actually right for checking tweak.
What do you think?
Cheers
Tim
On weight distribution "tweak" - you should trust the scales.
11-08-2012, 08:50 AM
#32
Tweak is not important enough to take the crown! I think a tweaked chassis can be faster around the track than a balaned one, just that it needs to be unbalanced is the right direction: more weight on the inside of the fast turns... If the slow turns are really tight, than less weight on the inside tires to make these turns. That's why oval unbalanced cars go so fast around bends... It also should not be taken to extremes, but 100grams or so extra on the inside tires in fast turns is good to have if the opposite turns are fairly slow turns. You really need good balance if you have fast turns in both directions, but most tracks have faster right turns than left turns, at least in the US..... Also the Sodige that keeps following me on every thread, it's not that kind of closet thread !!!
11-08-2012, 08:57 AM
#33
Who knows what the picture on your profile means !
11-08-2012, 10:11 AM
#34
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I found this post very interesting,as I have had all four corners ok,but the car was tweaked when I throw it on my Hudy setup station,which I do in between runs.
So basically,I think a good rule is weight distribution is a great guide,but not actually right for checking tweak.
What do you think?
Cheers
Tim
So basically,I think a good rule is weight distribution is a great guide,but not actually right for checking tweak.
What do you think?
Cheers
Tim
11-08-2012, 10:30 AM
#35
Make sure whatever settings that you think are supposed to be on the car are actually precise and even left to right.
I've seen some extremely wacky camber, droop, toe, etc., but the driver thought he was running {insert pro driver's name here}'s setup on the car. :P
I'm a crappy mechanic as far as playing around with settings. I ran a completely kit setup for a whole year on one of my cars, but it was a precise set up that I maintained well. Usually when some handling issue cropped up, it was because I either cracked a rim or the tires started pealing off the rims and needed to be reglued or replaced. That's something to look for, especially if you run Sorex 28 or 32. They usually start to peal away from the rim after a couple of runs in high traction (actually kind of tears away from itself near the glue line)
I've seen some extremely wacky camber, droop, toe, etc., but the driver thought he was running {insert pro driver's name here}'s setup on the car. :P
I'm a crappy mechanic as far as playing around with settings. I ran a completely kit setup for a whole year on one of my cars, but it was a precise set up that I maintained well. Usually when some handling issue cropped up, it was because I either cracked a rim or the tires started pealing off the rims and needed to be reglued or replaced. That's something to look for, especially if you run Sorex 28 or 32. They usually start to peal away from the rim after a couple of runs in high traction (actually kind of tears away from itself near the glue line)
11-08-2012, 12:01 PM
#36
Also if you can consistantly check your tires for roundness, whether old or new; it's probably more important than all of the above....
11-08-2012, 05:05 PM
#38
Quite patriotic James ! Anyways it seems the four most important ones would be in that order :
First: Roll Centers
Second: Droop/Ride height
Third : Camber
Fourth : Toe
All of those with the right weight, tires, and lowest CG possible.....
First: Roll Centers
Second: Droop/Ride height
Third : Camber
Fourth : Toe
All of those with the right weight, tires, and lowest CG possible.....
11-08-2012, 05:42 PM
#40
I found this post very interesting,as I have had all four corners ok,but the car was tweaked when I throw it on my Hudy setup station,which I do in between runs.
So basically,I think a good rule is weight distribution is a great guide,but not actually right for checking tweak.
What do you think?
Cheers
Tim
So basically,I think a good rule is weight distribution is a great guide,but not actually right for checking tweak.
What do you think?
Cheers
Tim
-Check ride height at four chassis points. I always measure behind the front wheels and forward of the rears.
-Adjust pre-loads according to your particular setup
-Put the car on scales. If tweaked corner loads are observed I adjust accordingly (Add preload to the corners that are light compared to their L/R counterpart, decrease preload to the corners that are heavy. Adjust all 4 corners equally! ie. 1/16th turn)
-If adjusted corner loads get the car equal (and you properly adjusted preloads equally) then you should be able to observe ride heights as the same as was initially measured.
-If you cannot get the corner loads equal left to right (most likely you may get either the front pair equal but the rear is still off or vise versa), then your chassis is tweaked. As has been previously explained by others, loosen chassis and/or top deck screws and retighten. Don't be surprised if you do this then get corner loads nearly exactly where they need to be right away with no further adjustments.
I know it sounds like alot but it actually goes very quickly. I find it very convenient and reliable.
11-08-2012, 05:59 PM
#42
If your chassis is very well balanced (built well), then corner loads will be a very accurate and reliable way to verify tweak. I have the Hudy tweak tool and NEVER use it after I understood how to analyze corner loads and apply the data. When I first got scales I struggled to understand the dynamic between measured corner loads, ride heights and chassis tweak. I took some time going back and forth between scales and the tweak tool until it dawned on me what was going on. Here's what I do...
-Check ride height at four chassis points. I always measure behind the front wheels and forward of the rears.
-Adjust pre-loads according to your particular setup
-Put the car on scales. If tweaked corner loads are observed I adjust accordingly (Add preload to the corners that are light compared to their L/R counterpart, decrease preload to the corners that are heavy. Adjust all 4 corners equally! ie. 1/16th turn)
-If adjusted corner loads get the car equal (and you properly adjusted preloads equally) then you should be able to observe ride heights as the same as was initially measured.
-If you cannot get the corner loads equal left to right (most likely you may get either the front pair equal but the rear is still off or vise versa), then your chassis is tweaked. As has been previously explained by others, loosen chassis and/or top deck screws and retighten. Don't be surprised if you do this then get corner loads nearly exactly where they need to be right away with no further adjustments.
I know it sounds like alot but it actually goes very quickly. I find it very convenient and reliable.
-Check ride height at four chassis points. I always measure behind the front wheels and forward of the rears.
-Adjust pre-loads according to your particular setup
-Put the car on scales. If tweaked corner loads are observed I adjust accordingly (Add preload to the corners that are light compared to their L/R counterpart, decrease preload to the corners that are heavy. Adjust all 4 corners equally! ie. 1/16th turn)
-If adjusted corner loads get the car equal (and you properly adjusted preloads equally) then you should be able to observe ride heights as the same as was initially measured.
-If you cannot get the corner loads equal left to right (most likely you may get either the front pair equal but the rear is still off or vise versa), then your chassis is tweaked. As has been previously explained by others, loosen chassis and/or top deck screws and retighten. Don't be surprised if you do this then get corner loads nearly exactly where they need to be right away with no further adjustments.
I know it sounds like alot but it actually goes very quickly. I find it very convenient and reliable.
11-08-2012, 06:00 PM
#43
Yes, the thread got slightly off topic. However, the discussion underlines why it is important to check it at least somewhat regularly. I think whether it's appropriate or not to designate it as a "tuning" item is neither here nor there. Most everybody seems to agree checking it is very important.
11-08-2012, 06:09 PM
#44
Well... if you don't check it and it's wrong, the car will handle like garbage.
Yes, the thread got slightly off topic. However, the discussion underlines why it is important to check it at least somewhat regularly. I think whether it's appropriate or not to designate it as a "tuning" item is neither here nor there. Most everybody seems to agree checking it is very important.
Yes, the thread got slightly off topic. However, the discussion underlines why it is important to check it at least somewhat regularly. I think whether it's appropriate or not to designate it as a "tuning" item is neither here nor there. Most everybody seems to agree checking it is very important.