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Old 11-20-2012, 10:04 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by RCvetran View Post

1. Until a different front pin brace solution comes along, you can make a brace with chassis standoffs(#8535 and #4699), ballstud spacers and long set-screws. You will need to size the length of the brace to fit your upper arm length.

2. "... add inline axle"

3. If grip is high, try adding 2mm to the front upper arm length.
1. The R5 front suspension is a little flexy. Look Bach at pics of Maybell's car. He is using additional standoffs for center damper plate and rear damper tube plates to form a brace between the reactive caster blocks thus tying together the left and right suspension and making a stiffer assemble. This helps any car be more consistent when the grip is very high

2. The optional inline axles are used by many WGT driver to make their cars more aggressive. This is a direct fit part. You will need 3/16 id bearings for your front wheels to use the inline axle.

3. The 2mm shims go between the reactive caster block and the blue anno suspension mount. The makes the upper arms longer and reduces camber gain making the car smoother to dive. This is a common high grip setting for any car with the R5 front end.
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:04 AM   #62
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Default front end

A good photograph of the front end would be a great help, still haven't got my head around this yet.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:30 AM   #63
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Team Associated RC10R5.1 FT World GT-part_1351895154295.jpg
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:35 AM   #64
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Many thanks, now I understand what you have done on the front end. Looks good, maybe AE don't need to bring a front brace out.
Once again thanks for the picky, still waiting for delivery of mine.
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:39 AM   #65
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Default another question

Still awaiting delivery but have another question,
1.Are you spacing the caster blocks out by 2mm per side ????

2.Roll centre are you trimming the pivot and side link balls by 0.6mm .

I run in the Uk where the grip is not usually as good as in the usa.We run 10.5 boosted.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:44 AM   #66
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I got my kit yesterday and I built it last night. It went together very nicely. The only snag had to do with assembling the side spring perches. The instructions do not say how far into the carbon wings the setscrews should go and how far the perch should thread onto the setscrew.

I ended up putting an M3 pinion set screw into the perch from the bottom so it was flush plus one more turn in. I then ran the long kit set screw into the top of the perch until it bottomed against the pinon set screw. This gave me the ability to run a touching + two turns in setup may WGT racers are running.

Most RX's will require you to remove the forward battery stop and use the RX as a battery stop. I like how clean my setup is but I may move the RX to the side to gain battery adjustability.

Some pics...







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Old 11-22-2012, 10:55 AM   #67
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Nice!

Electronics are mounted very neat. Which servo did you use? It looks a bit long and then the RX is placed more to the rear and that could be the reason why you had to leave the front battery stop out.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:11 AM   #68
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Looking good. Can't wait to order it here in Europe. We are always late
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:40 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by Joost K. View Post
Nice!

Electronics are mounted very neat. Which servo did you use? It looks a bit long and then the RX is placed more to the rear and that could be the reason why you had to leave the front battery stop out.
Its a Spektrum H5020G. It is actually smaller than some servos like the Futaba 3650 and the RX is the smallest Futaba makes.

Looking at Maybell's car he had to do the same. Walt runs spektrum rx's and they are tiny. They would fit but you still would not have any battery adjustability. You would have to mount the RX on one side to be able to move the batt.
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Old 11-22-2012, 05:26 PM   #70
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Default the build

My car arrives tomorrow so your photos are a great help, see you haven't fitted the front brace or extended the caster blocks.
My electrics will be Futaba S9650 servo, the mini Sanwa receiver and LRP SXX V2 with the up graded board will be running the Reedy sonic 10.5 on 1s boosted.
I built the 1/12th scale version of this car with out a problem .

The WGT in the Uk is over $430 inc tax
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Old 11-22-2012, 05:37 PM   #71
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I am going to a temp carpet track Sunday. The grip will not be high enough to need the brace or longer upper arm.
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:54 PM   #72
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Default car arrived today

Totally built, used 2mm spacers on caster blocks to give longer top arms. Made a front brace similar to previous photos.
Every thing went together perfectly and built under 4 hours. Only disappointment with the kit No O-rings or washers with the shock.So fitted a CRC shock till I can acquire a set of washers.
Fitting a Futaba S9650 servo, LRP SXX v2 Esc, vetch 10.5 boosted motor and Sanwa radio gear.
Tyres will be RC4LESS lilac all round and shell will be Sophia. Using kit springs and damper fluids etc.
Testing next week ,will post some photos when complete
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:03 PM   #73
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Default servo

I ran my CRC with a KO-PROPO PDS 2431CS very good expsensive servo, Does not fit the Associated cant centralise the servo shaft.DOH
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:09 PM   #74
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Ready for Sunday



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Old 11-23-2012, 05:11 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCvetran View Post
Totally built, used 2mm spacers on caster blocks to give longer top arms. Made a front brace similar to previous photos.
Every thing went together perfectly and built under 4 hours. Only disappointment with the kit No O-rings or washers with the shock.So fitted a CRC shock till I can acquire a set of washers.
Fitting a Futaba S9650 servo, LRP SXX v2 Esc, vetch 10.5 boosted motor and Sanwa radio gear.
Tyres will be RC4LESS lilac all round and shell will be Sophia. Using kit springs and damper fluids etc.
Testing next week ,will post some photos when complete
If your car pushes take those 2mm shims out.
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