Steering knuckles ballstud threads keep stripping. need advice.
Have anyone experience the issue where the steering knuckles top threads would stripe when you tap the board sightly.
I hit the board once or twice per race day. All it takes is one tap and the thread stripped. I kept changing the steering knuckles. They aren't expansive. But I am wondering if there is a way to fix this permanently. A guy at our track suggested CA glue it. I am not too sure about that... Any help would be greatly appreciated. :smile: |
Originally Posted by gom
(Post 11404563)
Have anyone experience the issue where the steering knuckles top threads would stripe when you tap the board sightly.
I hit the board once or twice per race day. All it takes is one tap and the thread stripped. I kept changing the steering knuckles. They aren't expansive. But I am wondering if there is a way to fix this permanently. A guy at our track suggested CA glue it. I am not too sure about that... Any help would be greatly appreciated. :smile: |
Originally Posted by Vostok 7
(Post 11404663)
I'm sure you've already considered this, but is it possible you are screwing them in too tight so that all it takes is a little nudge to completely strip them out?
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What car? Some companies make aluminum steering blocks. Try ca it should work.
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No matter what car bottom and top screws comes loose overtime even we just normal usage without crashing, your best bet is just get the aluminum knuckle. I do replace the plastics ones on my tamiya 417x if their noticeable play this is the signs it's wearing out.. And I'm tired of replacing it so I'm going to get some aluminum ones...
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I have a TC6 and a Tamiya TA06. both steering knuckles strips pretty easily.
I think I might just CA them.... |
CA = bad idea (IMO)
medium strength lock tite blue medium loctite Most any hardware store, auto parts place etc has it.
Originally Posted by gom
(Post 11406933)
I have a TC6 and a Tamiya TA06. both steering knuckles strips pretty easily.
I think I might just CA them.... |
Change to a buttonhead screw through the bottom into a female ballstud, this will take the plastic threading out of the mix.
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CA won't hold up in a stress area.
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Originally Posted by Marv
(Post 11407390)
CA = bad idea (IMO)
medium strength lock tite blue medium loctite Most any hardware store, auto parts place etc has it. |
Originally Posted by MikeXray
(Post 11407425)
Change to a buttonhead screw through the bottom into a female ballstud, this will take the plastic threading out of the mix.
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No matter what car bottom and top screws comes loose overtime even we just normal usage without crashing, your best bet is just get the aluminum knuckle.
http://bookstoday.info/go/smile.jpg http://bookstoday.info/lo/sad.jpg |
I used to have the same problem with my trf415msxx. (Our track has wooden track boards).
I changed to Aluminum uprights and the fault has gone. I dont know how the uprights are constructed on either of your cars, but I made sure the top hat inserts (I don't know the proper name for them) on my car we replaced at the same time as the upright, the ballstud and the steering arms to eliminate any wear which when combined in the parts might be detrimental in a crash. I found that countersunk screws are better on the lower mounting too, not button head, or it may just be coincidence! I am wondering if the fault was caused by excessive steering lock on impact, as I turned the steering lock down a bit too and I think that helped as well as the new parts. Glue of any kind doesnt usually help, (I tried that too) especially CA as it will probably attack the properties of the steering arm and make the thread worse. |
Everybody with the TC6 at our track went to the alum knuckles. Granted hitting the boards don't help, but this was a common problem for even the clean drivers.
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Simple soloution.
10 mm ballstuds, Never pull one out again.:cool: D. |
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