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Old 10-25-2012, 11:25 PM   #1
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Default Modernizing an Atlas YM-34 SI II

I'm currently living in Japan and came across some old, but wonderful chassis' from yesteryear. Chassis' such as Atlas YM-34's, Tamiya 414M's, EVO, Tech Barracudas R2 R3 and Xpress sedans. Most of them all in immaculate condition or NIB.

What really caught my attention is an Atlas YM-34 SI II, YM-34 SI for $100 USD and it got me thinking. What would it take to bring this car up to speed with other lipo styled chassis'. I would love to race it against other on road cars and see how it fairs.

I was wondering what gear differential I could use in place of the standard differential. I noticed that the differential components resemble several car manufactures, Tamiya 415, Cyclone ect.

If anyone knows about or could help me with finding out what gear differential to use that would be great.

Since this chassis has cutouts for Sub C cells I'm going to try and utilize the chassis space. That being said, I'm going to use a shorty pack and place the speed control on the same side. Which I think, should help out with weight balance.

I'll post some pictures of the project once I get things rolling.

ANYHELP OR SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREAT!
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:21 AM   #2
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Try this.

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-manua...atlas-manuals/
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:24 AM   #3
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i used to have a ym-34t.. i abught it figuring it looked like teh 04 xray at the time, and figured, must be the same.. i was wrong..lol

baughta true or xray, night and day difference..
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:30 AM   #4
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Your internal is 2.17. Your diff teeth is fine with 37T. You can change out your middle gearing. The stock is 17T. I think you have belt adjustments but I am not sure about fitting other gears on the center. I am sure you can adapt something. Try to get your final to at least 2.0 but for right now you'll be fine.
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:15 AM   #5
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I wonder if the cut outs in the chassis for the sub c cells will cause and handling problems.
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:19 AM   #6
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http://www.hasegawa-net.com/imgb/img/459309005.jpg

Here a link to the car in question! The Japanese sure know how to take car of there used items.
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:22 AM   #7
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This would be the parts car.

http://www.hasegawa-net.com/imgb/img/453659006.jpg
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:20 AM   #8
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If its possible could someone measure a TRF 415/416417 or TA05 ball bearing differential. I need to know its total length and the length of each differential half. Once I get these dimensions I can measure the differential here and determine what gear differential to buy.

Cheers, everyone.

Thanks for your assistance.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:06 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
If its possible could someone measure a TRF 415/416417 or TA05 ball bearing differential. I need to know its total length and the length of each differential half. Once I get these dimensions I can measure the differential here and determine what gear differential to buy.

Cheers, everyone.

Thanks for your assistance.
417 gear diff. outdrive to outdrive 54.7mm. outside of bearing to near side pulley 5mm. Outside of bearing to far side pulley 15.5mm. Pulley outer width flange to flange about 7.5mm.Near side bearing outside to pulley center 8.75mm. Far side bearing outside to pulley center 19.3mm.
By the way I am running a Kawada SV-10 Alcyon II Ultimate from 2002 and i have done extensive modifications on the car including fitting the TRF 417 gear diff. Dont worry about changing the ratio, you can compensate with the spur and pinion. Visit my blog for more info.
http://kawada-alcyon.blogspot.com/
and be careful, most of the cars of the time that had batteries on one side had very low top decks, to keep the CG low, but this will cause problems with mounting lipos which are much taller. The 415 too has this problem.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:56 PM   #10
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Thank you so much for those measurements. This will surly determine whether or not the gear differential will work. Is the rear gear differential the same as the front? If I'm not mistaken, the rear differential pulley on the YM-34 si 2 is offset and the front differential is dead centre.

Hummmm
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:06 PM   #11
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As for the lipo battery issue, I'm going to use a shorty pack. I know this doesn't help with the height issue, but it does allow me more options to relocate the battery in areas that might offer more room.

I did have a Tamiya 415MSX a long time ago and did heavy modifications to the rear bulkheads. Hopefully, I wont have to do this to this car.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Thank you so much for those measurements. This will surly determine whether or not the gear differential will work. Is the rear gear differential the same as the front? If I'm not mistaken, the rear differential pulley on the YM-34 si 2 is offset and the front differential is dead centre.

Hummmm
the 417 gear diff is the same for front and rear. i do not know about the atlas but i prefered the Pro2 Type Atlas YM-34.
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:35 PM   #13
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I'm opting for the 3-racing differential instead of the Tamiya one. The price point is the drawing factor. My only little concern now is the centre one-way pulley, I'm not to keen on the one way unit and opting for a solid one. Not to sure if the TA-05, HB cyclone, unit will work. Argg..
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
I'm opting for the 3-racing differential instead of the Tamiya one. The price point is the drawing factor. My only little concern now is the centre one-way pulley, I'm not to keen on the one way unit and opting for a solid one. Not to sure if the TA-05, HB cyclone, unit will work. Argg..
thanks to drift, you now have a ton of options for layshaft pulleys. You can get a standard hubless or hubbed 17T pulley rather cheaply. You may have file down a flat spot on your layshaft for the set screw to sit on though, assuming that your layshaft is 4mm of course.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:17 AM   #15
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I managed to find a layshaft pulley, problem solved. Thanks for the suggestions.
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