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Old 11-04-2012, 07:33 PM   #16
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I managed to get my hands on a 415MSX, and was able to test fit tamiya part # 3454395 (Centre Direct Pulley). Does anyone know where I could buy this part from? I cant seem to find any websites that carry an in stock status for the part.

Are there any other manufactures that offer a similar version to the #3454395?

Let me know.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:12 PM   #17
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I managed to get my hands on a 415MSX, and was able to test fit tamiya part # 3454395 (Centre Direct Pulley). Does anyone know where I could buy this part from? I cant seem to find any websites that carry an in stock status for the part.

Are there any other manufactures that offer a similar version to the #3454395?

Let me know.
Post a pic of it. Maybe some one can help if we knew what it looked like.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:35 AM   #18
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After 3 to 4 hours of searching the internet looking at all different makes and models of rc cars I've finally found the solution. HB TCX pulley system. The interesting thing about the conversion is the amount of thinking that was involved... ugh..

The YM-34 centre drive shaft was 31 mm long and rides on 6x10x3 bearings, that being said the gap between the motor mount and the pulley support mount is 26 mm. The TCX centre drive shaft is 26 mm long and the bearings required are 4x10x3. The TCX centre drive shaft is the exact length as the gap. . However, the old brain started to kick in, and I did a little internet searching and found some 4x10x4 bearings. The additional 2 mm overhang given by the 4 mm wide bearings will help support the 26 mm shaft. But wait there's more! I managed to find some 4x10x1 spacers which I will end up shimming both bearings another 2 mm inboard.

Now, since I've moved from 17 tooth to 20 tooth, and continue to the stock 37 pulley. The internal ratio has moved from 2.17 to 1.85. A big jump, but it will be well worth it for brushless racing. Next

I'll have to change belts. The stock belts are listed below.
Atlas rear 60 tooth
Atlas front 170

Since, I've changed 3 teeth on the pulley I'll have to do the same for the belts. I am I right by saying that?

Let me know if I'm wrong.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:24 PM   #19
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I'll have to change belts. The stock belts are listed below.
Atlas rear 60 tooth
Atlas front 170

Since, I've changed 3 teeth on the pulley I'll have to do the same for the belts. I am I right by saying that?

Let me know if I'm wrong.
I guess that is more or less right, one tooth on pulley add one tooth on belt, but you probably have to tension it one way or another.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:04 PM   #20
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Well, the rear belt sizing was wrong. I ordered a HB66494 (63T) thinking this would work. Upon installing the belt it was too loose, dammit. So, I've gone ahead and ordered a 62 tooth belt. This should work out just fine. As for the front belt, I've ordered a 3racing (174T). The two belts are coming from two different manufactures, HB for the rear and 3racing for the front. If the front is too loose, I'll add a belt pulley to tighten up the slack. However, i'm a little concerned after seeing the 63 tooth belt not fitting that the front one wont fit.

Besides the belt issue, the updating project is looking good.

At the moment, I've installed two 3racing gear differentials,TCX 20 tooth pulleys.
The two gear differentials needed some major shimming to fit properly, especially since I've flipped the belt layout. Now the problem is my left differential output cup is sticking out more than the right. Which in turn means I'll need to buy new drive shafts. The cars stock drive shafts are 46 mm and are bottoming out on the cups (both sides), after a few measurements if concluded that 42 mm will work on both sides of the car.

Here's hoping that the drive shaft will work. I'll have pictures up and ready once I've gotten everything ready to install.


Later
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:59 PM   #21
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Well, the rear belt sizing was wrong. I ordered a HB66494 (63T) thinking this would work. Upon installing the belt it was too loose, dammit. So, I've gone ahead and ordered a 62 tooth belt. This should work out just fine. As for the front belt, I've ordered a 3racing (174T). The two belts are coming from two different manufactures, HB for the rear and 3racing for the front. If the front is too loose, I'll add a belt pulley to tighten up the slack. However, i'm a little concerned after seeing the 63 tooth belt not fitting that the front one wont fit.

Besides the belt issue, the updating project is looking good.

At the moment, I've installed two 3racing gear differentials,TCX 20 tooth pulleys.
The two gear differentials needed some major shimming to fit properly, especially since I've flipped the belt layout. Now the problem is my left differential output cup is sticking out more than the right. Which in turn means I'll need to buy new drive shafts. The cars stock drive shafts are 46 mm and are bottoming out on the cups (both sides), after a few measurements if concluded that 42 mm will work on both sides of the car.

Here's hoping that the drive shaft will work. I'll have pictures up and ready once I've gotten everything ready to install.


Later
Just a word of warning to you. Going this route could get expensive, 10 - 20 dollars here and there will add up to near the cost of a new car. Perhaps its just better to buy a new car, its more cost effective. But if you are out to prove a theory and you really love the atlas so much, then i guess the cost will not really be a problem. same way as i love my 2001 Kawada. My mods to my vintage racer has got it handling so well that my friend with a more modern car swears my vintage racer changes directions in corners quicker than his car, hearing that comment is priceless
and another thing, i dont think 42mm driveshafts exists, only 44mm and 46mm.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:39 PM   #22
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Just a word of warning to you. Going this route could get expensive, 10 - 20 dollars here and there will add up to near the cost of a new car. Perhaps its just better to buy a new car, its more cost effective. But if you are out to prove a theory and you really love the atlas so much, then i guess the cost will not really be a problem. same way as i love my 2001 Kawada. My mods to my vintage racer has got it handling so well that my friend with a more modern car swears my vintage racer changes directions in corners quicker than his car, hearing that comment is priceless
and another thing, i dont think 42mm driveshafts exists, only 44mm and 46mm.
I want to prove that you don't need the latest and greatest chassis to be fast. A good setup and a good driver is all you need to be competitive.

As of right now the total cost for the car including all the updated parts is around $150.The two belts and proper drive shafts are the only things needed for completing this project.
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