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Old 10-10-2012, 11:46 PM   #61
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Mike you know very well I bleed blue baby, not orange !!!!! Mb3195, you are right that you guys are more experience at FOLLOWING than me !!! I earn my way up without copying , and I am proud of it , son.... I just did a few 12.1sec laps at practice today with a tc4 rtr, and I was blowing my lines left and right... Haynes 10.8sec, others (sportsman) 11.5sec... I am not that far behind, only 0.6sec to 1.3sec on my fourth practice.... I should be right there on my tenth practice session folks..... Maybe I should writing a book about it....lol....
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:50 PM   #62
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Mike you should come down to 360v2 with your T3 and sell it to the countless newbies out there... I believe there was six or eight of them down there today.....
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:51 PM   #63
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My car is too tough for them ....lol....
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:20 AM   #64
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Mike you know very well I bleed blue baby, not orange !!!!! Mb3195, you are right that you guys are more experience at FOLLOWING than me !!! I earn my way up without copying , and I am proud of it , son.... I just did a few 12.1sec laps at practice today with a tc4 rtr, and I was blowing my lines left and right... Haynes 10.8sec, others (sportsman) 11.5sec... I am not that far behind, only 0.6sec to 1.3sec on my fourth practice.... I should be right there on my tenth practice session folks..... Maybe I should writing a book about it....lol....
Dude, you really need to re-read all of your posts. Not once have I said to follow or copy a single person's setup. Yet you, on your original post made a stringent point of copying faster guys/team drivers setups.

If that is not what's following, then what is?

A few 12.1 secs laps? With more PRACTICE you could be doing all 12.1 second laps, not a few. That is where the best drivers differ, they are super consistent. A few fast laps will get you nowhere in a race.

As you say its on your 4th practice, you are by the sound of things doing pretty well. With that in mind, leave the car alone and practice more!
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:32 AM   #65
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Mb3195, you are right that you guys are more experience at FOLLOWING than me !!!

I don't know you BV87 and have no idea how fast or slow you are but I have seen MB3195 race a few times. I am not a betting man but I would stake my house and all I own, that around a track that you would most certainly be FOLLOWING him.

(sorry didn't mean to SHOUT)


Bb

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Old 10-11-2012, 02:39 PM   #66
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I will definitely leave the car alone, and practice more at 8.4volts ! Others might be running 8.4volts, but how can I be sure when I keep getting blown down the straight.... I still will charge at 8.4volts, and work on my lines to close the gap.... I don't think my tc4 is any worse than any other cars out there, and I don't think I am one second down only because of my driving... I heard of 2S packs taking 9.3+volts, and there is no way I can match their laptimes with 8.4volts.... That won't discourage me at all from competing, but I know it's about my driving getting better and not the other stuff.... Most of my laps were 12.5sec, by the way, and I did not lose much to these 11.5sec racers in the infield, but down the straight it looked like they had 13.5t motors in their cars..... Hopefully the Roar 8.44volt limit will be actively enforced everywhere to level the playing field, and then you will see how slow some will suddenly become.... 9.4volts- 8.44volts= 0.86volts x 2200kv = 1892rpm extra , and that is throughout the six minute run .... There is no way to catch that car or match his laptimes if driving skills are about equal.... Maybe some will repackage 3S packs with 2S logos, and kill everybody in spec class...lol...
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:51 PM   #67
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I will definitely leave the car alone, and practice more at 8.4volts ! Others might be running 8.4volts, but how can I be sure when I keep getting blown down the straight.... I still will charge at 8.4volts, and work on my lines to close the gap.... I don't think my tc4 is any worse than any other cars out there, and I don't think I am one second down only because of my driving... I heard of 2S packs taking 9.3+volts, and there is no way I can match their laptimes with 8.4volts.... That won't discourage me at all from competing, but I know it's about my driving getting better and not the other stuff.... Most of my laps were 12.5sec, by the way, and I did not lose much to these 11.5sec racers in the infield, but down the straight it looked like they had 13.5t motors in their cars..... Hopefully the Roar 8.44volt limit will be actively enforced everywhere to level the playing field, and then you will see how slow some will suddenly become.... 9.4volts- 8.44volts= 0.86volts x 2200kv = 1892rpm extra , and that is throughout the six minute run .... There is no way to catch that car or match his laptimes if driving skills are about equal.... Maybe some will repackage 3S packs with 2S logos, and kill everybody in spec class...lol...
Seriously, what is this nonsense, and why do you bother even writing it?

LiPos at 9.3V? Total fabrication. Everyone at your track will have their LiPo at 8.40V, that is what a LiPo is charged to by design.

If someone is quicker on the straight it is a combination of having their car set up properly, and them carrying more speed through the previous corner down to driving skill.

Stop claiming that the people who are faster than you are cheating, stop claiming that you are some kind of RC visionary, start learning about RC properly, and stop leading other people astray with your idiotic posts.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:36 PM   #68
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Seriously, what is this nonsense, and why do you bother even writing it?

LiPos at 9.3V? Total fabrication. Everyone at your track will have their LiPo at 8.40V, that is what a LiPo is charged to by design.

If someone is quicker on the straight it is a combination of having their car set up properly, and them carrying more speed through the previous corner down to driving skill.

Stop claiming that the people who are faster than you are cheating, stop claiming that you are some kind of RC visionary, start learning about RC properly, and stop leading other people astray with your idiotic posts.
Rarely will I defend Bert's posts, but there is a problem with abiding by the rules by some racers at the track. No one is going to tech practice, but there should be better tech on race days this year. Motor legality is more likely the issue opposed to 9.3v, 8.5 is more likely what you would find out of those trying to squeak by. I know a few racers have already been called out for mixing components.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:38 PM   #69
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Guys - most of us have already blocked "bertrandsv87", so when you quote him, we are stuck reading this dripable... Please do everyone a favor and do not quote him when replying... If you wish to go down this road and cause yourself pain, so be it... Just please for the love of god do not drag the rest of us into his abyss.
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Old 10-11-2012, 04:28 PM   #70
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9.3V???

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Old 10-11-2012, 06:16 PM   #71
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Rarely will I defend Bert's posts, but there is a problem with abiding by the rules by some racers at the track. No one is going to tech practice, but there should be better tech on race days this year. Motor legality is more likely the issue opposed to 9.3v, 8.5 is more likely what you would find out of those trying to squeak by. I know a few racers have already been called out for mixing components.
Hi, as organizer, I am considering a transition from silvercan to brushless. How do I tech brushless that is practical for club racing (considering time constraint, one man operation to run the races)?

Sorry for being off topic.

Thanks.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:27 PM   #72
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Hi, as organizer, I am considering a transition from silvercan to brushless. How do I tech brushless that is practical for club racing (considering time constraint, one man operation to run the races)?

Sorry for being off topic.

Thanks.
In my club, we run Novak Ballistic or SS 25.5, no timing restriction, against Silver Cans. It's very even. Last year, with the brushless spec'd to 30* timing, the silver can might have had a wee advantage, but with the open timing, I'd suspect if anything the brushless would have a tiny advantage. To my knowledge, no-one has showed up with a "special" silver can.

We don't tech motors, only weight and battery voltage. No one has been accused of or caught cheating.

Some people have looked in disbelief when a fast guy first entered the class and put 2 laps on the rest of the field (all beginners and intermediates). His setup underwent plenty of scrutiny. But then another couple fast guys tried the class and showed it wasn't a fluke. Everyone else, having seen what's possible, knuckled down and got faster.

So, do you think your club is full of cheaters?

-Mike
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:43 PM   #73
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While there are some cheaters (which I have DQd), the bigger battle is "perception". Fast drivers will always be suspect, and I want rules that eliminate as much of that.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:56 PM   #74
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Sodidge, please stick to what you know! I don't make claims without seeing with my own eyes people... I think the organizers have it under control in special events, but for practice time they don't need to, and that's how I've been getting blown by down the straight... I don't mind them doing it for practice, but it's a soul corrupter, and a bad way to start in RC... Surely, I am not accusing the really fast guys here because they don't have that much a difference in speed down the straight when I get there with them at the same time. They get me bad in the turns, not the straight ! I catch some newbies in the turns, but get crushed in the straight by four to six car lengths ... You have to have been there to understand.... It leaves me with a feeling that I am always off the sportsman pace, but I know what I should be worried about come the real event races where everything will be tecched...... So if you are two seconds slower at a tecched local event, then you worry... For practice, don't worry about the laptimes too much.....Cheers......
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:59 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Hi, as organizer, I am considering a transition from silvercan to brushless. How do I tech brushless that is practical for club racing (considering time constraint, one man operation to run the races)?

Sorry for being off topic.

Thanks.
The most reliable way is to get a meter like the MMR which can read resistance while the motor is assembled, it's quick to connect and get an idea if the motor has been tampered with. Get the racers used to having their batteries checked before their heats, most of the time the threat of being caught is enough to prevent people from trying.
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