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Old 10-05-2012, 05:34 AM   #1
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Default Checking IR of lipo's.

I put this in the electronics section but only got one reply. So I figured I would ask the onroad guys since that's what I am running.


What is the best way to check the IR of my packs. I have a hitech x4 and an onyx235, but I don't think either of these can check this. How would I go about checking to see which of my packs are the best. Would I need to get a different charger or is there an external piece of equipment I could get. Thanks for any help.
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:50 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Jerz616 View Post
I put this in the electronics section but only got one reply. So I figured I would ask the onroad guys since that's what I am running.


What is the best way to check the IR of my packs. I have a hitech x4 and an onyx235, but I don't think either of these can check this. How would I go about checking to see which of my packs are the best. Would I need to get a different charger or is there an external piece of equipment I could get. Thanks for any help.
There are lots of youtube vids teaching how to do this.
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:59 AM   #3
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Danny @ SMC has lots of good info on this on Hobbytalk.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/forumdisplay.php?f=141
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:24 AM   #4
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Great question.
I was just asking about this at my local track last weekend.
Would like a in depth answer from somebody that has a good charger
on what to look for in numbers and what equipment we need to check the packs.

My 106 will show ir too...and obviously the lower the better.That being said,I noticed that a turbo 35 will have a few more options for charging/discharging/ir average.

What are good overall numbers to look for?
Should ir be checked with a pack hot out of the car (or charger)?
With non sponsored racers not able to just "replace" a questionable pack, knowing what to look for with ir/voltage averages ect. can be a competitive advantage at the track

I think it's a good subjet and hope one of the pro level guys can give some input.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:39 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by j.d.roost View Post
Great question.
I was just asking about this at my local track last weekend.
Would like a in depth answer from somebody that has a good charger
on what to look for in numbers and what equipment we need to check the packs.

My 106 will show ir too...and obviously the lower the better.That being said,I noticed that a turbo 35 will have a few more options for charging/discharging/ir average.

What are good overall numbers to look for?
Should ir be checked with a pack hot out of the car (or charger)?
With non sponsored racers not able to just "replace" a questionable pack, knowing what to look for with ir/voltage averages ect. can be a competitive advantage at the track

I think it's a good subjet and hope one of the pro level guys can give some input.
You want to check the pack after a cycle (full charge then discharge). Checking it right out of a running vehicle or after running a high amp discharge is when it is reading what you want to measure (at temperature and the resistance while outputting it's power).

The Ichargers (Protek and Junzi) will do it, as will the Turbo 35 GFX. And as stated, the GFX will give more options and information.
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Old 10-05-2012, 03:00 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
You want to check the pack after a cycle (full charge then discharge). Checking it right out of a running vehicle or after running a high amp discharge is when it is reading what you want to measure (at temperature and the resistance while outputting it's power).

The Ichargers (Protek and Junzi) will do it, as will the Turbo 35 GFX. And as stated, the GFX will give more options and information.
While discharging to 3v is supposed to be ok it does reduce the life of the pack. I never cycle packs or discharge them more than whatever the motor takes out in a run and I always balance charge (although my cells are always fine).

Whether is a Revtech pack for $120 or a Turnigy pack for $45, just about ALL of the Lipo's on the market are really good and will run the same on the track. Unless you are mixing it up in Mod Sedan with Lemieux and Hebert every weekend and get packs for free checking the IR is not worth it.
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Old 10-05-2012, 03:29 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
While discharging to 3v is supposed to be ok it does reduce the life of the pack. I never cycle packs or discharge them more than whatever the motor takes out in a run and I always balance charge (although my cells are always fine).

Whether is a Revtech pack for $120 or a Turnigy pack for $45, just about ALL of the Lipo's on the market are really good and will run the same on the track. Unless you are mixing it up in Mod Sedan with Lemieux and Hebert every weekend and get packs for free checking the IR is not worth it.
Well I'm sure that's somewhat the case, but I believe there is some advantage to running a better pack. I run revtech and speedzone batteries. I have a few thst just seem better then the others do I just wanted to test the difference. And at some point a battery just seems dead and I would like to be ablest test thst as well. I run 17.5 sedan where the difference is very close and feel that better battery might give just a little bit of an advantage. I'm starting to run mod sedan and want to use the better of my batteries. I'm mainly doing to to test batteries and see if there is any difference.
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
While discharging to 3v is supposed to be ok it does reduce the life of the pack. I never cycle packs or discharge them more than whatever the motor takes out in a run and I always balance charge (although my cells are always fine).

Whether is a Revtech pack for $120 or a Turnigy pack for $45, just about ALL of the Lipo's on the market are really good and will run the same on the track. Unless you are mixing it up in Mod Sedan with Lemieux and Hebert every weekend and get packs for free checking the IR is not worth it.
Some batteries are better quality, are made with better materials, and have a lower IR due to their build quality. What you said is somewhat correct in saying that, someone who isn't looking for an advantage out of a battery wont notice the difference, but someone who is looking for the advantage will notice the difference. Packs with higher IR tend to have a performing well lifespan that is significantly shorter than a pack with a lower IR. Higher IR packs or bad quality packs can also make your performance fade towards the end of a race.
When beginners start out they obviously buy the cheaper batteries, and as they get better they buy the better batteries that are a tad more expensive, looking for some advantage due to a performance lack. If the really cheap packs were amazingly good, beginners would stay with them, and we'd probably be using them too haha !!
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
While discharging to 3v is supposed to be ok it does reduce the life of the pack. I never cycle packs or discharge them more than whatever the motor takes out in a run and I always balance charge (although my cells are always fine).

Whether is a Revtech pack for $120 or a Turnigy pack for $45, just about ALL of the Lipo's on the market are really good and will run the same on the track. Unless you are mixing it up in Mod Sedan with Lemieux and Hebert every weekend and get packs for free checking the IR is not worth it.
I wouldn't expect IR to be important in Mod sedan where speed is easy to come by. I would say in the "stock classes" IR is very important where every last kmph is everything.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:40 AM   #10
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My Powerlab 8 charger gives you IR of each cell while charging. It's nice to scroll thru the menu and check it once in a while. On track, most of us won't feel a big difference. But if a cell goes bad you can catch it.

Big thing is check it with the same tool/charger. My PL gives slightly differnet number then the IRS meter Smc sells. Both seem consistent with itself, but not each other. Keep your number apples to apples. Keep in mind this variation when another guy is claiming near zero IR on his new batteries. Check that battery with your method so the comparison to your own stuff is correct.
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