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Old 10-04-2012, 02:48 PM   #1
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Default HPI Sprint 2 Flux suspension - Driving me nuts

So I recently bought a Sprint 2 Flux and am in the process of doing some GPM upgrades, full aluminum A-Arms, hubs, steering cranks (with the sows ear bolt through mod on the left side) and Ti turnbuckles. I had some issues getting everything installed but it's on now and now there's a problem driving me batty. I took the time to make sure all the turnbuckles were at the correct lengths as best I could (using dimensions I found here and comparing them to OEM) and everything is wonky, front and rear camber are positive, front toe is the wrong direction, rear toe doesn't seem consistent side to side... The locations for the balls on the shocks and turnbuckles are in the OEM out of the box setting, but nothing seems right. Should I just chuck the GPM stuff in the garbage? It's driving me insane.
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:12 PM   #2
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I've never had turnbuckle lengths quoted in instructions be anywhere near right.
At best you can bolt the car together, then you need to adjust individually for correct camber, toe etc.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:32 PM   #3
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These are off my S2 before I changed to RPM ball cups -

Measured center to center either inside or outside of the cups.

TOE LINKS: 1.40"
FRONT CAMBER LINKS: 1.585"
REAR CAMBER LINKS: 1.5"
SERVO LINK: 1.82"
ACKERMAN LINK: 1.915"

Did you get the ball studs back in the same hole on the new parts that you had on the old parts?

Any time you change parts you MUST readjust camber & toe.

I don't know what you're using for set up equipment...(?)

Adjust camber first - all around.
I suggest -1 all around.

Then adjust toe. I suggest 0 for the front.

In an email I got from a seller of GPM S2 parts = the C blocks have 8 caster and the rear hubs have 2 toe.

I just upgraded to GPM C blocks (only) and had no issues.

YES, I had to readjust my camber and toe after install.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Vostok 7 View Post
So I recently bought a Sprint 2 Flux and am in the process of doing some GPM upgrades, full aluminum A-Arms, hubs, steering cranks (with the sows ear bolt through mod on the left side) and Ti turnbuckles. I had some issues getting everything installed but it's on now and now there's a problem driving me batty. I took the time to make sure all the turnbuckles were at the correct lengths as best I could (using dimensions I found here and comparing them to OEM) and everything is wonky, front and rear camber are positive, front toe is the wrong direction, rear toe doesn't seem consistent side to side... The locations for the balls on the shocks and turnbuckles are in the OEM out of the box setting, but nothing seems right. Should I just chuck the GPM stuff in the garbage? It's driving me insane.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:46 PM   #4
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if your dropping all that cash into bling, you should get yourself a cheap integy setup kit for touring cars and a proper camber gauge.
i got mine for $50 used and works like a hot damn.
you really cant set the car up using measurements you read online. lots of things can change the settings so all the settings have to be assigned at the actual ride height, once tweak has been taken out.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:06 PM   #5
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Yeah, I put the stock turnbuckles back on and everything looks right even though the Ti turnbuckles are basically the same length. Everything was put back in the same holes.

I need to get the proper measuring equipment and do it the right way like you guys suggest. For now the OEM turnbuckles seem to be working fine.

Marv, yours are the dimensions I used, they're the only turnbuckle lengths I could find anywhere. It seemed that the Ti turnbuckles were right out of the package but I think I used some in the wrong spots and tried to adjust them to be right which might have been my first mistake!

Thanks guys!
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:22 PM   #6
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The aluminum parts actually improve handling = they are cnc machined rather than injection molded plastic composite.

Bling? As long as he didn't go purple...

The down side = if you have a catastrophic collision parts will bend instead of break and that get's costly.

The measurements I posted were out of the box OEM settings.

There as good a STARTING point as none at all.

set up stations are a nice to have -

Yeah Racing makes a decent one for $80 + shipping - covers toe and camber. http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-yt...cPath=456_1265

I'm still 'Flintstoning' it in that department.


And a ride height gauge is a good thing to have - http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-yt...?cPath=456_796.




Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
if your dropping all that cash into bling, you should get yourself a cheap integy setup kit for touring cars and a proper camber gauge.
i got mine for $50 used and works like a hot damn.
you really cant set the car up using measurements you read online. lots of things can change the settings so all the settings have to be assigned at the actual ride height, once tweak has been taken out.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:24 PM   #7
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Where those the turnbuckles that came with the ball cups and ball studs complete?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Vostok 7 View Post
Yeah, I put the stock turnbuckles back on and everything looks right even though the Ti turnbuckles are basically the same length. Everything was put back in the same holes.

I need to get the proper measuring equipment and do it the right way like you guys suggest. For now the OEM turnbuckles seem to be working fine.

Marv, yours are the dimensions I used, they're the only turnbuckle lengths I could find anywhere. It seemed that the Ti turnbuckles were right out of the package but I think I used some in the wrong spots and tried to adjust them to be right which might have been my first mistake!

Thanks guys!
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vostok 7 View Post
I need to get the proper measuring equipment
Get your self some calipers - one of each Imperial & Metric


HPI Sprint 2 Flux suspension - Driving me nuts-%24-kgrhqjhjbke63vties9bo098cquzg%7E%7E60_35.jpg

I have an old school Imperial (no digital readout) and then use a calcualtor to do the metric conversion.

Don't toss those turnbuckles.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv View Post
Where those the turnbuckles that came with the ball cups and ball studs complete?
Yeah, they came with new cups and ball studs and were assembled.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv View Post
Get your self some calipers - one of each Imperial & Metric


Attachment 977608

I have an old school Imperial (no digital readout) and then use a calcualtor to do the metric conversion.

Don't toss those turnbuckles.
I have a nice pair of digital calipers, my business involves a lot of precision work.

I need to grab a camber gauge for sure and readjust the turnbuckles that way.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv View Post
Where those the turnbuckles that came with the ball cups and ball studs complete?
If so, you have to pop out the ball studs and using the point ends of the caliper measure (inside the cup or outside the cup) center to center.

HPI Sprint 2 Flux suspension - Driving me nuts-dscn4451.jpgHPI Sprint 2 Flux suspension - Driving me nuts-dscn4452.jpg
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