Associated TC6.1 VS Yokomo BD7?
#16
Anyone used the ARC R10?
#17
#18
#19
Tech Adept
What everyone has forgotten is he is a beginner.
When I first started, I had a tamiya ta02 wow that was some years ago....
I would advise to any newbie get something u can get your head around, that will work out of the box, simple to understand. And most importantly is strong.
The xray comes with the best instructions on the market very easy and well presented. Tells u about the set up changes, u will never really learn unless ur helped and u learn to understand why the changes has the effect it does.
Why advise a car that he might crash as we all did when learning, and it just breaks. Repairs the next round and 3 corners in someone hits this time and breaks. What will he learn apart from taking the car apart and fixing.
No one can tell u how to spend your money only advise and help.
The bd7 is not a beginners car I'm sorry experienced racers have commented on the manual, have lost items whilst doing maintenance. Ok it may be quick out the box that is if its built correctly! A beginner with a manual u can't read???
If its either and only a yok or tc6.1 then you've limited ur choice and experiences u could gain, honestly grab a t4 or try and get a good t3'12 (new if possible as building new u get a far better experience and learn a lot from the build)
When I first started, I had a tamiya ta02 wow that was some years ago....
I would advise to any newbie get something u can get your head around, that will work out of the box, simple to understand. And most importantly is strong.
The xray comes with the best instructions on the market very easy and well presented. Tells u about the set up changes, u will never really learn unless ur helped and u learn to understand why the changes has the effect it does.
Why advise a car that he might crash as we all did when learning, and it just breaks. Repairs the next round and 3 corners in someone hits this time and breaks. What will he learn apart from taking the car apart and fixing.
No one can tell u how to spend your money only advise and help.
The bd7 is not a beginners car I'm sorry experienced racers have commented on the manual, have lost items whilst doing maintenance. Ok it may be quick out the box that is if its built correctly! A beginner with a manual u can't read???
If its either and only a yok or tc6.1 then you've limited ur choice and experiences u could gain, honestly grab a t4 or try and get a good t3'12 (new if possible as building new u get a far better experience and learn a lot from the build)
#20
#21
What everyone has forgotten is he is a beginner.
When I first started, I had a tamiya ta02 wow that was some years ago....
I would advise to any newbie get something u can get your head around, that will work out of the box, simple to understand. And most importantly is strong.
The xray comes with the best instructions on the market very easy and well presented. Tells u about the set up changes, u will never really learn unless ur helped and u learn to understand why the changes has the effect it does.
Why advise a car that he might crash as we all did when learning, and it just breaks. Repairs the next round and 3 corners in someone hits this time and breaks. What will he learn apart from taking the car apart and fixing.
No one can tell u how to spend your money only advise and help.
The bd7 is not a beginners car I'm sorry experienced racers have commented on the manual, have lost items whilst doing maintenance. Ok it may be quick out the box that is if its built correctly! A beginner with a manual u can't read???
If its either and only a yok or tc6.1 then you've limited ur choice and experiences u could gain, honestly grab a t4 or try and get a good t3'12 (new if possible as building new u get a far better experience and learn a lot from the build)
When I first started, I had a tamiya ta02 wow that was some years ago....
I would advise to any newbie get something u can get your head around, that will work out of the box, simple to understand. And most importantly is strong.
The xray comes with the best instructions on the market very easy and well presented. Tells u about the set up changes, u will never really learn unless ur helped and u learn to understand why the changes has the effect it does.
Why advise a car that he might crash as we all did when learning, and it just breaks. Repairs the next round and 3 corners in someone hits this time and breaks. What will he learn apart from taking the car apart and fixing.
No one can tell u how to spend your money only advise and help.
The bd7 is not a beginners car I'm sorry experienced racers have commented on the manual, have lost items whilst doing maintenance. Ok it may be quick out the box that is if its built correctly! A beginner with a manual u can't read???
If its either and only a yok or tc6.1 then you've limited ur choice and experiences u could gain, honestly grab a t4 or try and get a good t3'12 (new if possible as building new u get a far better experience and learn a lot from the build)
#22
Been running the TC6.1 since its release and just switched to the BD7. The original TC6 was an awesome car and better than the TC6.1 for me.
The TC6.1 was very difficult on low grip surfaces but ok on higher grip.
The BD7 is just a machine straight out of the box. I was instanlty quicker with the BD7 at my 2 local clubs.
Outdoors on asphalt the BD7 was 6 seconds quicker over 5 minute run compared to my TC6.1. Best to average lap being 0.26 seconds so is also super consistent to drive.
Build quality on BD7 is much better also, the TC6.1 requires a few shims here and there to eliminate play and material removing to make fit better etc. Although the BD7 requires a few optional extras after buying the kit.
The TC6.1 was very difficult on low grip surfaces but ok on higher grip.
The BD7 is just a machine straight out of the box. I was instanlty quicker with the BD7 at my 2 local clubs.
Outdoors on asphalt the BD7 was 6 seconds quicker over 5 minute run compared to my TC6.1. Best to average lap being 0.26 seconds so is also super consistent to drive.
Build quality on BD7 is much better also, the TC6.1 requires a few shims here and there to eliminate play and material removing to make fit better etc. Although the BD7 requires a few optional extras after buying the kit.
You mentioned other parts to buy with the kit. do you mean graphite upgrades etc?
#24
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
I have the BD-7 and its awesome. I have a TCXX and I wanted to bang my head on the wall when building it due to the fact you open a bunch of bags to build one thing. I have been into RC for 21 years. But by no means would I recommended it to anyone as a first car. The car that I felt has been the easiest to build/maintain/find parts is the Xray. I would wait for the Xray T4 and get that if you want a top of the line kit. The manual is exceptional so there aren't questions to be asked. You will almost always find someone at the local track who is running it for help. I have had Xray products and they just go together with pure ease. They are hard to break and you can make them fast.
#25
Tech Adept
So when u unpack your motor and u solder up ur good to go
U get different speed motors most clubs run 17.5 u can get slower 21.5 the faster 13.5 10.5 etc
We can all be funny dude, try giving advice that is helpful rather than trying to humiliate or be little someone else.
Bet u can't even go around a track without crashing, because u have something too fast u have no clue how to change ur setups, u probably have copied someone else's set up off some forum because they are a worlds driver. And ur mind and ur thumbs work the same the track conditions are always the same.
#26
Hey sounds good ill come check it out on sunday!.. im in the hills so just down the road from Littlehampton track... some blokes use Yokomo down there so will be a good choice.
#27
Times have changed mate, u can get speedo's with blinky, blinky is a setting in most speedo's with zero boost and zero timing. Nice and simple no hassell
So when u unpack your motor and u solder up ur good to go
U get different speed motors most clubs run 17.5 u can get slower 21.5 the faster 13.5 10.5 etc
We can all be funny dude, try giving advice that is helpful rather than trying to humiliate or be little someone else.
Bet u can't even go around a track without crashing, because u have something too fast u have no clue how to change ur setups, u probably have copied someone else's set up off some forum because they are a worlds driver. And ur mind and ur thumbs work the same the track conditions are always the same.
So when u unpack your motor and u solder up ur good to go
U get different speed motors most clubs run 17.5 u can get slower 21.5 the faster 13.5 10.5 etc
We can all be funny dude, try giving advice that is helpful rather than trying to humiliate or be little someone else.
Bet u can't even go around a track without crashing, because u have something too fast u have no clue how to change ur setups, u probably have copied someone else's set up off some forum because they are a worlds driver. And ur mind and ur thumbs work the same the track conditions are always the same.
#28
Hey
I always go for the car that alot of people around you are using you can get setup tips and tricks and maybe a spare part if you make a mistake thats why i am purchasing the tc6 many around me have them.
Listen buddy he was simply proposing a suggestion no need to start running your mouth mate the journey into brushless is quite a learing curve.
I started in brushed its where its all about your driving it helps get your lines perfect then getting into the esc setup.
I always go for the car that alot of people around you are using you can get setup tips and tricks and maybe a spare part if you make a mistake thats why i am purchasing the tc6 many around me have them.
Listen buddy he was simply proposing a suggestion no need to start running your mouth mate the journey into brushless is quite a learing curve.
I started in brushed its where its all about your driving it helps get your lines perfect then getting into the esc setup.
#30
Other otions inculde floating servo holder, titanum turnbuckles and screws (only really needed to help with weight)