Skiddins

Was it due to flex, or did the motor itself move?

porsche928gs

The motor moved.

OnRDPassion

iTrader: (59)

I am debating on picking one of these cars up but my local shop doesn't really stock this car very much. From what I am reading it looks like I should have a couple rear hubs on hand along with front C Hubs as well. Any other recommendations?

Would anyone recommend getting aluminum front C hubs?

Jerz616

iTrader: (49)

Oh. Double D. Well. I'm not going to run the T4 in VTA. I'm going to turn my '12 into my VTA. But I'm still going to give you a run.

Jerz616

iTrader: (49)

I just built my T4 so I don't know about parts yet. But if they are they are as good as the ones on my T3'12 which I'm sure they are then you won't need much. I have yet to break anything on my '12 in the past year. And I hit a bunch of stuff. But those would be the main parts. I would just have one of each to start. I haven't seen many running alum parts. Atleast not at our track and there are quite a few of us that run xray.

whiteflagwar

iTrader: (13)

I would have a couple steering blocks on hand.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

I've been driving an Xray for about 3 years now and I've never once broken a front c-hub or an arm. I'd say some of the important spares are: rear hubs, steering knuckles, spur gears, spool outdrives, blades for the rear driveshafts (or front if you change outdrives), and the 2x10mm pins for the CVD's.

Adam B

Are you using a thin shim or washer behind the motor screws? There is nothing different between this car or a lot others that just use the bottom screws to mount the motor. If you are not using a washer or shim, try that. Or is it possible the mounting hole on the motor have stripped and worn, or the screws are too short? Just throwing some thing out there.

As far as parts, knuckles. The T4 is my 4th xray car. I have broken one knuckle ever, and I am a horrible driver, but I have had to replace them due to the hole stripping for the camber link. Also, if your ECS or CVD decides to blow up, it will tear a knuckle up real good. Depending on what you are running motor wise, I would consider upgrading the spool out drives. Also, the 3.5mm blades wear out quickly.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, I should have clarified that I never break the rear hubs or steering knuckles, but sometimes I over tighten them and the threads start to strip.

locked

iTrader: (1)

With my first T3'12, I sheared off an aluminum turnbuckle, broke a rear hub, bent a hinge pin and broke a plastic suspension mount, from just one very nasty hit where I swung a bit wide coming out of a corner onto the straight and caught an outside board where they joined together. A board was sticking out just enough to grab my rear tire and rip it completely off. My second T3'12, I never broke anything on it and I raced it more often than the first one. The first one I use for mod, the second I used for 17.5 boosted and 17.5 blinky. I have tons of spares, almost enough to make another car, but I never need them. I prefer to be prepared, just in case, but it takes a lot of force to break anything.

Adam B

The other thing with any Xray car, parts tend to go on back order. Especially knuckles (hard), hubs and arms.

Skiddins

Have you checked to see if the screws in the kit are bottoming out in the motor, not against the motor mount?

I ask as when I was building my kit, the screws seemed very long, so I tried them in motor when out of the car (screwing them in gently until the fouled on something) and measured between the can and the screw head, then measured the width of the bulkhead head. My screws are 0.1mm away from bottoming out inside the motor can.

Was just thinking that perhaps if they are bottoming out sooner than mine, you might be tightening them into the motor can, not against the mount.

I's using washers behind my screws now to make sure (and spread the load to prevent what you've described)

I'm not saying this was definitely the problem you encountered, but something worth checking

porsche928gs

I noticed the supplied screws seem long too. Anyway I used my own stainless steel screws I believe the size is m3x8mm I thInk . Is the same button head type and everything. Believe me they were tight, but I did not put washers underneath. I'll try that and put some friction washers to minimized it happening again.

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

I would lightly sand the end bell of motor with 220grit sand paper to rough it up and make it grab better . I had a cefx last season and that's what I had to do to it to keep it from moving during a crash . Also loose the SS screws they r soft com paired to any black X-ray screw

morgoth

Yup, indeed. Sometimes I can make small adjustments in stock and my car feels a little different, but not that much. I doesn't make me more consistent or very. If I do the same adjustment in mod, the difference is way bigger imo.

I find that the transition between ~75% and near full lock is quite harsch and that makes my rear breaking lose. I think it's because of the binding that occurs on the front shafts. I don't have this issue in stock and a very little bit in stock. I don't need as much steering in (super)stock as in mod and if I reduce my dual rate to 93% that effect is almost completely gone.

Anyway, too bad no one has a pair to test so I'll probably end up buying a pair. Not sure if I'd go with the Xray ones or the Spec R V2's?