Xray T4 '13

Old 10-31-2012, 08:36 AM
  #1261  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
The trouble with Xray's outdrives for blades is that a lot of the blade is left exposed which means you wear a groove in them.
On Xray's forum I mentioned that they needed better outdrives for their spools.
Perhaps they've listened
With brushless power nowadays you need to replace blades more often, since the days of the 5cels i don't remember a single race where i don't replace the blades on my cars, except when i did 13.5T timing class on a AE TC6 in wich the blades are so hard that damage the outdrive. I prefer to just change blades.

Like Martin stated on the forum, they are not making miracles, there are parts that wear no matter what.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:26 AM
  #1262  
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
On my T3 never used the plastic ones, i use this ones released on Nov,2011:


Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapter - HUDY Spring Steel™
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
XRAY can even do better:

305136 Alu Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters (2) - Hard Coated

release date: Sep. 19, 2008
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
The trouble with Xray's outdrives for blades is that a lot of the blade is left exposed which means you wear a groove in them.
On Xray's forum I mentioned that they needed better outdrives for their spools.
Perhaps they've listened
Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
With brushless power nowadays you need to replace blades more often, since the days of the 5cels i don't remember a single race where i don't replace the blades on my cars, except when i did 13.5T timing class on a AE TC6 in wich the blades are so hard that damage the outdrive. I prefer to just change blades.

Like Martin stated on the forum, they are not making miracles, there are parts that wear no matter what.
I have been running these for years....basically the same as SPR just by different company. 17.5 tc on carpet and the front blades last forever. The blades don't split, or spread open and chew up the outdrive, and the outdrives don't spread open from drilling the pipe.

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Old 10-31-2012, 09:36 AM
  #1263  
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Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
I have been running these for years....

+1

Flying Fox Outdrives .. I've run the same set for a few years as well and have never worn out a blade.

It's a shame that you can't easily get them anymore. The last time I saw them available was at the 2011 IIC when a couple of the Austrailian guys brought down a full bag of them.

If anyone in that part of the world can get me another set, please let me know.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:37 AM
  #1264  
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
With brushless power nowadays you need to replace blades more often, since the days of the 5cels i don't remember a single race where i don't replace the blades on my cars, except when i did 13.5T timing class on a AE TC6 in wich the blades are so hard that damage the outdrive. I prefer to just change blades.

Like Martin stated on the forum, they are not making miracles, there are parts that wear no matter what.
Yes, but when the part wears out because the design of the part that will push against it is compromised, that's a design 'fail'.

Skiddins
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:49 PM
  #1265  
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Corey, can you explain what forward bite is?
A car that allows you go get early and hard on the throttle when coming out of a corner.

If you have friends that also have the same car as you, you can ask them to drive theirs. And if the setup suits you more then your current one, you can copy it a go from there

That's what we did our team at first race with the T4's. We had 3 T4's and we were all in the last heat of each round. There was a pause of 15-20min after our heat so we swapped our transmitter and drove each other cars to see witch setup was the best. Mine was the best (everyone was driving with the same tires)
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:10 PM
  #1266  
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slightly less traction in the rear and might have a bit of over-steer?
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:06 PM
  #1267  
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Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
+1

Flying Fox Outdrives .. I've run the same set for a few years as well and have never worn out a blade.

It's a shame that you can't easily get them anymore. The last time I saw them available was at the 2011 IIC when a couple of the Austrailian guys brought down a full bag of them.

If anyone in that part of the world can get me another set, please let me know.
Try the side piece racing version, as good or better compared to flying fox.
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:31 PM
  #1268  
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Any additional suggested updates for a new T4?

I'm thinking of the T3 motor guard, T3 Foam Bumper, Side Piece Racing fan and blades.

Thanks!
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jjjheimer View Post
Any additional suggested updates for a new T4?

I'm thinking of the T3 motor guard, T3 Foam Bumper, Side Piece Racing fan and blades.

Thanks!
The car felt easier to drive with ecs's.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:00 PM
  #1270  
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Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
+1

Flying Fox Outdrives .. I've run the same set for a few years as well and have never worn out a blade.

It's a shame that you can't easily get them anymore. The last time I saw them available was at the 2011 IIC when a couple of the Austrailian guys brought down a full bag of them.

If anyone in that part of the world can get me another set, please let me know.
Ditto,
I paid for a ( second ) set, and they never sent them. Pitty, I really loved them, nice and perfectly tight. Someday a trip to Australia... I can dream, can't I.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:38 PM
  #1271  
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Just finished my T4 build. As usual, the assembly went smooth. Set it up to the attached asphalt set up except for the gear diff oil. I went with 1000 wt straight away since my first meet will be med grip outdoor asphalt. The shock pistons were a bit on the loose side so I'm having reservation with the kit shock oil but I'm gonna try it. Gonna install the receiver and speedo tomorrow. Maiden run will be Saturday.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by erchn View Post
Try the side piece racing version, as good or better compared to flying fox.
I have the SPR ones .. yet the Flying Fox ones is what I run.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:23 AM
  #1273  
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Corey, can you explain what forward bite is? Do you mean traction going forward? I don't think I have ever had a car just spin it's wheels unless on pavement. I only race on carpet. The only weird handling issue I have ever faces is a back end that wont stay planted when I pour on the power at the apex of a turn. The back end comes loose. Would that be lateral grip?
Forward bite refers to the moment you get on the throttle. Typically, when forward bite is low, you will experience on-power oversteer. Many of the suggestions I made already help cure this problem. The thing I found that GREATLY effects the T4 is the front droop. By reducing it .5mm at the halloween race we gained a tenth, and consisitently I might add. More droop will help keep the rear stable but at the expense of slower transition speed and a loss of on-power steering.

If I could suggest one thing to people who are unsure what changes to make, I would say this; If you want to know what change does what, DO NOT make a minor adjustment. i.e If you want to experiment with rear roll centre, increase or reduce by 2mm and you will see EXACTLY how that change effected the car. Of course, once you know what it does, you can go back to making minor changes like .5mm but this trick will help you get a better "feel" for your car. And it doesn't hurt to make notes....lots of them!
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:30 AM
  #1274  
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Originally Posted by CoreyW. View Post
Forward bite refers to the moment you get on the throttle. Typically, when forward bite is low, you will experience on-power oversteer. Many of the suggestions I made already help cure this problem. The thing I found that GREATLY effects the T4 is the front droop. By reducing it .5mm at the halloween race we gained a tenth, and consisitently I might add. More droop will help keep the rear stable but at the expense of slower transition speed and a loss of on-power steering.

If I could suggest one thing to people who are unsure what changes to make, I would say this; If you want to know what change does what, DO NOT make a minor adjustment. i.e If you want to experiment with rear roll centre, increase or reduce by 2mm and you will see EXACTLY how that change effected the car. Of course, once you know what it does, you can go back to making minor changes like .5mm but this trick will help you get a better "feel" for your car. And it doesn't hurt to make notes....lots of them!
All of these setup details are helpful but I want to stress one important thing. Practice and consistency.

I see guys at my track change their setups all the time and go the exact same speed. Why...because they can't put their car in the same spot on the track twice in 5 minutes.

Can you practice, run a qualifier or race without crashing even once?
What is the difference between your fastest lap and your overall average lap?

If the answers to these questions are not "YES" and "1/2 sec or less" you probably wont be able to notice a .5mm change in any setting on your car.

Andrew and Corey can drive and tune precisely because Andrews fast lap is a 9.2 and his slowest lap is a 9.5 over 5 minutes.

I am not saying this to make anyone feel bad. Its just important that up and coming drivers focus on clean driving and when they get consistent then its time to start sweating the fine details.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
All of these setup details are helpful but I want to stress one important thing. Practice and consistency.

I see guys at my track change their setups all the time and go the exact same speed. Why...because they can't put their car in the same spot on the track twice in 5 minutes.

Can you practice, run a qualifier or race without crashing even once?
What is the difference between your fastest lap and your overall average lap?

If the answers to these questions are not "YES" and "1/2 sec or less" you probably wont be able to notice a .5mm change in any setting on your car.

Andrew and Corey can drive and tune precisely because Andrews fast lap is a 9.2 and his slowest lap is a 9.5 over 5 minutes.

I am not saying this to make anyone feel bad. Its just important that up and coming drivers focus on clean driving and when they get consistent then its time to start sweating the fine details.

Best post I have seen on RCTECH. Period. I could not possibly agree more.

I have been preaching this for a very long time - Andrew and his dad can back me up on this! I have to assume that those requesting the information I provided so far in this thread know how to use it "properly".
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