Xray T4 '13

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Old 06-24-2013, 04:14 PM
  #4231  
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increasing the angle of the rear links should take traction away at mid to exit.
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by esckalayd View Post
no need for the ECSs, but definitely get a front gear diff and put 1M or 2.5M CST in there. Also, grab the upgraded diff out drives (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Adapter-Set-2). Springs are a must, 2 sets of 2.3s 2 sets of 2.5 and one of 2.7s (the stock kit comes with 2.7s in the front).
Why do you suggest no ECS's? What is different from those outdrives and what comes with the gear diff?
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Why do you suggest no ECS's? What is different from those outdrives and what comes with the gear diff?
.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Why do you suggest no ECS's? What is different from those outdrives and what comes with the gear diff?
If you put in the gear diff or ball diff in the front ,the front axles will not chatter went your turn hard..but you need the dogbone blade for the gear diff or ball diff just like in the rear diff...
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by OVA View Post
If you put in the gear diff or ball diff in the front ,the front axles will not chatter went your turn hard..but you need the dogbone blade for the gear diff or ball diff just like in the rear diff...
ahh okay thank you.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by esckalayd View Post
First weekend out with the car on asphalt @ the ROAR Region 4 electric road Regionals (http://www.rctech.net/forum/florida-...regionals.html) and all weekend i was chasing more rotation and more steering. My setup to get the car into an A main final podium position was a bit odd ball from what some other guys had, but it definitely was one of the fastest sedans according to track times.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=440&setup=t4

if you are chasing more steering or rotation, switch the shims in the rear arms so the arms move closer to the front. Car will rotate a lot better
Did you try a spool instead of the front diff?
I run 13.5 boosted and tried a gear diff, it made the car more stable and smoother to drive but lacked traction out of corners. Running Mod on the same track it worked great, as I needed the extra stability on the brakes etc.

So for me, stock = spool, Mod = Front Diff

Did you also try less rear toe?
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Why do you suggest no ECS's? What is different from those outdrives and what comes with the gear diff?
I haven't seen or heard of any chatter when i take corners hard. The car isn't losing corner speed b/c of the stock shafts. If you want to spend the money on them, feel free, just saying isn't worth the $40 a shaft for me
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Did you try a spool instead of the front diff?
I run 13.5 boosted and tried a gear diff, it made the car more stable and smoother to drive but lacked traction out of corners. Running Mod on the same track it worked great, as I needed the extra stability on the brakes etc.

So for me, stock = spool, Mod = Front Diff

Did you also try less rear toe?
I didn't care for the spool, the 2.5M diff worked better for me at this track. I should have knocked toe down a bit, but it gave the car stability since i was running a real aggressive setup with hard springs and a shorten wheelbase
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by esckalayd View Post
I didn't care for the spool, the 2.5M diff worked better for me at this track. I should have knocked toe down a bit, but it gave the car stability since i was running a real aggressive setup with hard springs and a shorten wheelbase
Interesting.

I found I gained better initial steering with less rear toe, might allow you be be slightly less aggressive in other parts of the setup.

Will be trying your wheelbase changes etc next time out, but I will be running modified, so it will be interesting to see it's effect.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by esckalayd View Post
First weekend out with the car on asphalt @ the ROAR Region 4 electric road Regionals (http://www.rctech.net/forum/florida-...regionals.html) and all weekend i was chasing more rotation and more steering. My setup to get the car into an A main final podium position was a bit odd ball from what some other guys had, but it definitely was one of the fastest sedans according to track times.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=440&setup=t4

if you are chasing more steering or rotation, switch the shims in the rear arms so the arms move closer to the front. Car will rotate a lot better
i had similar problems you describe and have almost eliminated the understeer in the slower corners,heres what i started with http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=430&setup=t4
so from that i moved the front shock to hole #2 and used 2.3/2.6 (thanks damian) progressives on the front and 1000cst oil in the rear diff made the car easy to get in and out of corners and the timesheet said it was faster too,i tried the shorter wheelbase at another track and it didnt work for me,i think if you run the shorter wheelbase you will have to adjust your set up to suit it,i ran 1.5 rear camber which doesnt wear 3mm of the outside edge of the tyre,this gave me more rotation as it reduced the rear grip slightly,looking at your set up i wouldnt say it was that aggresive tbh,im going to test 400cst oil in the shocks and the 2.5/2.8 springs on the front next time out
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Interesting.

I found I gained better initial steering with less rear toe, might allow you be be slightly less aggressive in other parts of the setup.

Will be trying your wheelbase changes etc next time out, but I will be running modified, so it will be interesting to see it's effect.
A team mate was running mod and made the wheelbase adjustment and he went from fourth to TQ. Our car setups were very similar too, he was just running 2.5 springs all the way around. Next time i am going to try to decrease rear toe which will definitely help with steering and rotation.
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
i had similar problems you describe and have almost eliminated the understeer in the slower corners,heres what i started with http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=430&setup=t4
so from that i moved the front shock to hole #2 and used 2.3/2.6 (thanks damian) progressives on the front and 1000cst oil in the rear diff made the car easy to get in and out of corners and the timesheet said it was faster too,i tried the shorter wheelbase at another track and it didnt work for me,i think if you run the shorter wheelbase you will have to adjust your set up to suit it,i ran 1.5 rear camber which doesnt wear 3mm of the outside edge of the tyre,this gave me more rotation as it reduced the rear grip slightly,looking at your set up i wouldnt say it was that aggresive tbh,im going to test 400cst oil in the shocks and the 2.5/2.8 springs on the front next time out
Add some ackerman shims as well, steering will increase and car will become more reactive to your inputs.
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Old 06-25-2013, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by esckalayd View Post
Add some ackerman shims as well, steering will increase and car will become more reactive to your inputs.
thanks for that,ive never really got to grips with ackerman,so with more shims im increasing/have more ackerman which if im right makes the inside turning wheel turn more than the outer?
there ya go if im right i went the wrong way,ill get the hang of this one day lol
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Old 06-25-2013, 02:20 PM
  #4244  
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
thanks for that,ive never really got to grips with ackerman,so with more shims im increasing/have more ackerman which if im right makes the inside turning wheel turn more than the outer?
there ya go if im right i went the wrong way,ill get the hang of this one day lol
Other way around, more shims = less Ackerman, which means you turn the outer wheel more than with more Ackerman.

I always think of the car on full lock with the inside wheels steering knuckle against the limiter. The less Ackerman you use the more lock the outside wheel has (inside wheel remaining on full lock the whole time).

It's the outside wheel that is doing most of the steering due to the weight transfer as the car rolls.
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Other way around, more shims = less Ackerman, which means you turn the outer wheel more than with more Ackerman.

I always think of the car on full lock with the inside wheels steering knuckle against the limiter. The less Ackerman you use the more lock the outside wheel has (inside wheel remaining on full lock the whole time).

It's the outside wheel that is doing most of the steering due to the weight transfer as the car rolls.
well explained,i got it now,i took the shims off as they were plastic and the guy i got the car from had over tightened one side so they were off,i now have ally spacers so ill go back to 1mm and try again,cheers damian
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