Xray T4 '13

Old 01-20-2013, 08:53 AM
  #2446  
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
He's probably not running those 4 screws which stop the layshaft bearing from moving.
You are right.
Xray must close-up the bearings in the layshaft bulkheads, it is not difficult,
it is easy to do
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:40 PM
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Default under dampened?

What are you all running for damping? My cars seems very soft, I'm dragging the chassis on both sides (5.2mm RH, carpet). I'm running kit springs 400 front 350 rear at the moment with 1.1 - 4 hole pistons. I'm thinking 500 all around, it'd also be nice to get a little more corner speed.
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by eded1 View Post
You are right.
Xray must close-up the bearings in the layshaft bulkheads, it is not difficult,
it is easy to do
Like they did on the t3 12.
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
What are you all running for damping? My cars seems very soft, I'm dragging the chassis on both sides (5.2mm RH, carpet). I'm running kit springs 400 front 350 rear at the moment with 1.1 - 4 hole pistons. I'm thinking 500 all around, it'd also be nice to get a little more corner speed.
The car's fast when it rubs and, besides, I don't believe it's possible to fully prevent it. I've ran 400cst and 2.7/2.9 springs and she still rubed. Currently, I'm dropping back down to 350cst so my setup is more inline with the pro guys.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:25 AM
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Wow really, never had an Xray that dragged this much, I've gone through a can of motor spray this month just cleaning the chassis butter.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
Wow really, never had an Xray that dragged this much, I've gone through a can of motor spray this month just cleaning the chassis butter.
I think Hara explained in one of his videos that no matter how narrow the chassis, it still rubbed so he stopped caring.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
I think Hara explained in one of his videos that no matter how narrow the chassis, it still rubbed so he stopped caring.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dluw3VUGYoU

From about 58 sec into the video.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:08 AM
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Anyone had issues with the shock bladders so far?
Went to reset my rebound and for some reason I can't seem to get any in them now
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by lethallee69 View Post
Anyone had issues with the shock bladders so far?
Went to reset my rebound and for some reason I can't seem to get any in them now
If you want rebound, you need to seal that hole in the shock top.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
If you want rebound, you need to seal that hole in the shock top.
? I can get plenty of rebound without doing that.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by lethallee69 View Post
Anyone had issues with the shock bladders so far?
Went to reset my rebound and for some reason I can't seem to get any in them now
They swell up in the shock once they have been in there with the oil. Some oils make the swell worse. It happens to all bladders. The new ones in the T4 seem to last longer than the old shocks though.

EA
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:02 AM
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Default O Ring on shock shaft

Are you guys running o rings on the shock shaft?? I have noticed all the Xray drivers not running their o rings on the shock shaft but oil leaks when I try to remove it. What am I doing wrong??
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Serpenteer View Post
Are you guys running o rings on the shock shaft?? I have noticed all the Xray drivers not running their o rings on the shock shaft but oil leaks when I try to remove it. What am I doing wrong??
That bottom o-ring that is in the bottom of the shock body, must be installed. It's an extra o-ring that people put on the shaft as a tuning aid to slow initial rebound and compression.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by porsche928gs View Post
That bottom o-ring that is in the bottom of the shock body, must be installed. It's an extra o-ring that people put on the shaft as a tuning aid to slow initial rebound and compression.
Thanks for the clarification!

Also, does anyone have the explanation of what the different settings for the Roll center upper clamps?? Longer links vs shorter links?? I can't find it in the manual or setup books.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam B View Post
Yes, longer links will make the car roll more. Here is a link to the directions for the new style upper clamps. I can't remember if the instruction manual was so detailed or not. I keep this in my pit bag and refer to it a lot.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...with Adj. Roll

If you use longer links you may need to play with your droop. Running low droop (high # on gauge) will counter act the benefit of the chassis rolling, IMO.
Originally Posted by Serpenteer View Post
Thanks for the clarification!

Also, does anyone have the explanation of what the different settings for the Roll center upper clamps?? Longer links vs shorter links?? I can't find it in the manual or setup books.
adam posted this a few pages back
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