Xray T4 '13
#5311
Depending on your radio gearm you can just Shoe-Goo the antenna to the side of the receiver, that's what I've done, not I don't have an aerial tube at all.
I run Sanwa (Airtronics) and have never had any problems with it all tied down.
I run Sanwa (Airtronics) and have never had any problems with it all tied down.
#5313
#5314
Hi, let me take a crack at this..
your fist picture is a steering rack post, so no it will not work for the drive shaft coupling.
yes, this top teck, w/ the motor mount support will be a great tuning option, as I will be picking one up myself the next time I order thru them. this option lets you take out all the layshaft screws to alter traction of the car.
general question for all out there. Has anyone gone from the V1 RSD chassis conversion to the V2 conversion for 17.5 blinky, and if so, what did you have to change about the chassis setup? I was just wondering if you have a good setup on the car already, will it work for the V2. Also, what did you do about mounting the antenna mount as there is no hole in the top deck for the antenna tube to go up thru. as of right now, I just wrapped the wire towards the servo and bent the wire up, so it won't get tangled. What have others done?
your fist picture is a steering rack post, so no it will not work for the drive shaft coupling.
yes, this top teck, w/ the motor mount support will be a great tuning option, as I will be picking one up myself the next time I order thru them. this option lets you take out all the layshaft screws to alter traction of the car.
general question for all out there. Has anyone gone from the V1 RSD chassis conversion to the V2 conversion for 17.5 blinky, and if so, what did you have to change about the chassis setup? I was just wondering if you have a good setup on the car already, will it work for the V2. Also, what did you do about mounting the antenna mount as there is no hole in the top deck for the antenna tube to go up thru. as of right now, I just wrapped the wire towards the servo and bent the wire up, so it won't get tangled. What have others done?
OK, thanks!
#5315
A technique I'm using is the T2/T3 Hard Foam Bumper (XRA301223) and the long Composite Bumper Brace Set (XRA301321) to compensate for added thickness of the bumper. This also provides direct support between the Upper Bumper Holder and the Bulkhead, reducing the chances of breaking the main chassis where the bumper is mounted. Hope this is a helpfull option.
#5316
this is the 4th thread started for this car....i know its the best ...but come on really good.
#5317
#5318
Anyone else have traction roll issues with the rsd conversion? It had tons steering and to prevent traction rolling I had to kill it with shock angles, camber, springs, droop. The car would end up ok in the beginning of a run but then fall off at the end and just push. I never was able to dive into a corner like I had wanted..
#5319
Tech Apprentice
Anyone else have traction roll issues with the rsd conversion? It had tons steering and to prevent traction rolling I had to kill it with shock angles, camber, springs, droop. The car would end up ok in the beginning of a run but then fall off at the end and just push. I never was able to dive into a corner like I had wanted..
#5320
I lowered the rear lower roll centers, raked the front arm hung pins (took the shim out of the front rad bulkhead and left the rear front mount shims in), as well as changing many other things. Car stopped traction rolling but it also just didn't play well consistantly throughout.
#5321
I had similar issue so I lowered rear roll center a bit and went up on tire compound. Worked really well. If the car fell off than to me that means you were over working the tire. Right now on are pavement track I'm running 34s where most of the other guys are on 28s. Xray with rsd conv has tons of grip!
#5322
Try anti dive. This also helps with traction rolling.
#5323
Anti dive was what I did for the front arms, raking the front arm angled down towards the track. Still had some issues..
#5324
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
I watched you adjust just about everything but your driving. When traction comes up like it did, you have to adjust your corner entry strategy as well. You can't bomb the car into the corner and scrub for turn in like you can on lower traction, you have to widen your corner entry, push brake to set the car, and then carve the corner. That, and stiffening the flex in my car to add to the predictability of the chassis is where I gained time this past weekend. Nothing else.
#5325
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (52)
I need help to setup a T4 for VTA.
I ran a T2, T3, VBC D05 in VTA, and got them to dial without issue. I recently switch to T4, and I have a hard time to make it work for VTA.
Track: Norcal Asphalt
Springs: RSD silver F/R. Also tried 2.9/2.7 or 2.9/2.5
Shock oil: 350/350. Also tried 45/45
Toe: F toe out 1. Rear toe in 3
Camber: F -2, R -1.5. also tried R -2
Gear diff: 1k front spool
Roll center: F mid hole 1mm shim. R outside hole no shim.
No matter what I do, the car just super loose in the rear. I have to drive it really carefully or else it just spin out.
This same car works great in 17.5 with RSD silver springs and 350 oil.
Any suggestion?
I ran a T2, T3, VBC D05 in VTA, and got them to dial without issue. I recently switch to T4, and I have a hard time to make it work for VTA.
Track: Norcal Asphalt
Springs: RSD silver F/R. Also tried 2.9/2.7 or 2.9/2.5
Shock oil: 350/350. Also tried 45/45
Toe: F toe out 1. Rear toe in 3
Camber: F -2, R -1.5. also tried R -2
Gear diff: 1k front spool
Roll center: F mid hole 1mm shim. R outside hole no shim.
No matter what I do, the car just super loose in the rear. I have to drive it really carefully or else it just spin out.
This same car works great in 17.5 with RSD silver springs and 350 oil.
Any suggestion?