kschu

iTrader: (16)

if front is the inner hole, rear is outer hole, mean front more roll( gripper) than rear and make rear loose grip ? this setting will increase steering ??

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

Take a look at the roll center section of Xray's setup book found here: http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...Name=XRAY%20T4. I think their book does a very good job explaining roll center, how to adjust it, and what the effects would be. The inner link mounts shown in the setup book are different than the T4, but the theory is still the same. Also refer to the camber section of the book for a brief description of camber rise (gain).

The cheat sheet found on page two of THIS is also useful.

jonest

iTrader: (10)

What are you doing here? Heeee

jonest

iTrader: (10)

Chu,

This explains it.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=7713

JamieV

I am going to try ECS Driveshafts in the front of my T4.

Should I buy 52 or 50mm and how will they differ in performance.

Also if I go for 50mm will the outdrives be ok as I am aware you can get 2mm longer ones (Not Xray though)

Thanks in advance

locked

iTrader: (1)

If you stick with the plastic outdrives, go for 52mm. I use 50mm ECS in my car, but I'm using the xray spring steel spool outdrives. Nikita outdrives will work well too, but shorter shafts will make the plastic outdrives more prone to breaking, so that's why I would suggest going with 52mm

I've heard that 50mm can be more responsive, but honestly, I've never tested both sizes back to back to say for sure.

Clint161

iTrader: (1)

If you need to you can shim out the outdrives at the spool.

JamieV

Thanks for the advice. I will get the shorter ones with the steel outdrives.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

learning how to setting car...

whiteflagwar

iTrader: (13)

Anybody have issues reusing the shock bladders? I can't seem to get the shocks to bleed properly the second time around.

Sean B.

iTrader: (13)

I was finding it hard to really bleed them properly. Always ended up with 25-50% rebound. I started bleeding them through the bottom cap. It's a bit of a trick, but I'm getting perfect rebound and no air

FLAT OUT

The shock bladders swell in the shock oil making it difficult to fit them back in the shock body. I have had this problem also. Xray dont seem bothered about it which annoys me as its been a problem with there shock membranes for a while now.

Jampot

Very common with many manufactures. I run muchmore o rings, tamiya's are very good too.
Easiest way to tell if the o rings are any good, before building a new kit keep 1 in clear container for a week and another in shock oil filled container then compare after the 5 to 7 days.
I change them regardless but if u have a new set do it and see actually how bad it is.

I have two set of shocks built and then have not leaked or have air in after 3 months of running, after christmas I shall rebuild both and replace the diafram and o rings dependent of use depends on rebuilt I race a few times a week so 4 months is really good.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I can show you how to reuse them Cole. Come see me sometime.

kinga

iTrader: (15)

I used to aswell, there is a trick to getting the bladders in after the second or third bleed as they do stretch.
With the shock fully extended and full of oil, rest the bladder on the top of the body. The trick is you need a tool with round edges that wont damage the bladder, i use a 2mm hex driver with rounded edges that wont damage the bladder.
In a circular motion, massage the bladder down into the shock body, starting at the middle of the bladder working your way out.
Once it is in, then compress the shock to about 5mm out from full compression. Work the bladder down once more with one or two circular movements.
Put the shock cap on and just before fully tight, compress the shock to 2mm or so from full compression.
I can bleed a 12 month old set of plastic or alloy shocks first time every time with this method in less than 10 minutes.