Xray T4 '13
#1801
Tech Regular
I uploaded a setup sheet if interested. Car is better than I am
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...ID=74&setup=t4
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...ID=74&setup=t4
I normally run anti squat myself and to be honest did run about 0.2mm of kickup on the t3 '12 - which I had dialed! Yet to try it on the t4 as yet though.
I find that running anti squat definitely lets you drive the car much harder, although recently I have been playing with anti dive and no anti squat - not sure what I prefer, I think it depends on the type of track layout.
#1802
Adjust the symmetry of the swaybar action via the links that connect to the arm. You can lengthen or shorten the links until you get symmetry. Also, for fine-tuning, you can slide the swaybar through the aluminum ball that connects to the links. It's important that the swaybar dynamics side-to-side are the same, the links are what they are to achieve this symmetry.....
Anything you make different on each side will change the dynamics side to side. If that's the only way you can make things even, there is another problem that needs solving first.
You don't want different length roll bar links, you want everything exactly the same on both sides.
If you change where the 'ball end' is on the roll bar you are changing the tension on each side, again, preventing it from being the same on each side.
People need to do what others have suggested by checking that the bar is flat on a flat surface, and if not, bending it back to flat so it will be nice and even each side.
#1803
kickup and anti squat in the same setup - very brave!
I normally run anti squat myself and to be honest did run about 0.2mm of kickup on the t3 '12 - which I had dialed! Yet to try it on the t4 as yet though.
I find that running anti squat definitely lets you drive the car much harder, although recently I have been playing with anti dive and no anti squat - not sure what I prefer, I think it depends on the type of track layout.
I normally run anti squat myself and to be honest did run about 0.2mm of kickup on the t3 '12 - which I had dialed! Yet to try it on the t4 as yet though.
I find that running anti squat definitely lets you drive the car much harder, although recently I have been playing with anti dive and no anti squat - not sure what I prefer, I think it depends on the type of track layout.
Skiddins
#1804
Tech Regular
theoretically that is true, but to me the car feels better to drive than with flat pins.
#1805
I run 17.5 blinky, and use 64 pitch. I ran 64 pitch with a mod car, but after some thinking and talking to other drivers, I would probably run 48 pitch for anything faster then a 13.5 since the teeth have more meat to them. The T4 was designed with using the Xray pinion gears because they are narrow. I personally do not have any, so I use whatever I got but have to put the pinion on backwards, set screw on battery side not motor side. Of all the pinions I have, I seem to like the Trinity/Epic ones the best.
#1806
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
You've contradicted yourself a bit there.
Anything you make different on each side will change the dynamics side to side. If that's the only way you can make things even, there is another problem that needs solving first.
You don't want different length roll bar links, you want everything exactly the same on both sides.
If you change where the 'ball end' is on the roll bar you are changing the tension on each side, again, preventing it from being the same on each side.
People need to do what others have suggested by checking that the bar is flat on a flat surface, and if not, bending it back to flat so it will be nice and even each side.
Anything you make different on each side will change the dynamics side to side. If that's the only way you can make things even, there is another problem that needs solving first.
You don't want different length roll bar links, you want everything exactly the same on both sides.
If you change where the 'ball end' is on the roll bar you are changing the tension on each side, again, preventing it from being the same on each side.
People need to do what others have suggested by checking that the bar is flat on a flat surface, and if not, bending it back to flat so it will be nice and even each side.
Went through the whole process of trying to set up the rear sway bar again, making sure the bar was flat, again. Arms and everything move very freely. Still was quite a bit off. I had to have the right side link 1.5 turns longer than the left in order to get equal lift.
Why would the links be adjustable if they are supposed to be the same? Wouldn't you want a solid link then?
Personally, I think it's the bar. It does not flex evenly or something
#1807
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
I guess I'm at a loss then. I spent some time last night going through everything making sure nothing is tweaked.
Went through the whole process of trying to set up the rear sway bar again, making sure the bar was flat, again. Arms and everything move very freely. Still was quite a bit off. I had to have the right side link 1.5 turns longer than the left in order to get equal lift.
Why would the links be adjustable if they are supposed to be the same? Wouldn't you want a solid link then?
Personally, I think it's the bar. It does not flex evenly or something
Went through the whole process of trying to set up the rear sway bar again, making sure the bar was flat, again. Arms and everything move very freely. Still was quite a bit off. I had to have the right side link 1.5 turns longer than the left in order to get equal lift.
Why would the links be adjustable if they are supposed to be the same? Wouldn't you want a solid link then?
Personally, I think it's the bar. It does not flex evenly or something
Did you try flipping the bar? If you still have the problem on the same side of the car it would tell me there is something other than the bar causing the problem.
#1808
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Ok, I got it. It was all in my rear hubs. Found I had one of the set screws for the hinge pin tighter than the other.
If the set screws are all the way snug, it does cause some bind. I backed them off equally so the pin was still secure but the bind was gone. Roll bar links are now even length, and all is well.
Thanks for your input everyone!
If the set screws are all the way snug, it does cause some bind. I backed them off equally so the pin was still secure but the bind was gone. Roll bar links are now even length, and all is well.
Thanks for your input everyone!
Last edited by Sean B.; 12-05-2012 at 08:43 AM.
#1809
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
You've contradicted yourself a bit there.
Anything you make different on each side will change the dynamics side to side. If that's the only way you can make things even, there is another problem that needs solving first.
You don't want different length roll bar links, you want everything exactly the same on both sides.
If you change where the 'ball end' is on the roll bar you are changing the tension on each side, again, preventing it from being the same on each side.
People need to do what others have suggested by checking that the bar is flat on a flat surface, and if not, bending it back to flat so it will be nice and even each side.
Anything you make different on each side will change the dynamics side to side. If that's the only way you can make things even, there is another problem that needs solving first.
You don't want different length roll bar links, you want everything exactly the same on both sides.
If you change where the 'ball end' is on the roll bar you are changing the tension on each side, again, preventing it from being the same on each side.
People need to do what others have suggested by checking that the bar is flat on a flat surface, and if not, bending it back to flat so it will be nice and even each side.
#1810
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Try at your own risk. I tend to not look at other setups and consequently mine usually end up drifting out to no man's land.
For this one, I was looking to get a lot of off power turn in. The pro-dive loads the front tires a lot under hard braking and I feel like it adds a lot of initial steering. Specifically there is one turn on our track which is essentially a 180° with high entry speed. At this corner I was looking to get some initial steering so I could brake later. Because of the braking and loading the front of the car "shimmies" quite a bit, but it seems to turn well.
For this one, I was looking to get a lot of off power turn in. The pro-dive loads the front tires a lot under hard braking and I feel like it adds a lot of initial steering. Specifically there is one turn on our track which is essentially a 180° with high entry speed. At this corner I was looking to get some initial steering so I could brake later. Because of the braking and loading the front of the car "shimmies" quite a bit, but it seems to turn well.
#1811
Tech Regular
Bb
Last edited by bucketboy; 12-05-2012 at 01:38 PM.