Skiddins

http://www.piez0r.com/Skiddins/Xray%20Setup%20Sheets/Carpet%20Setups/t3'12-EWS-Damian-14-10-12.pdf

Remember, that's for the T3'12 and needs a little work.

liteweight

iTrader: (12)

Is the new kit comes with carpet and asphalt set up ? Any comments with the stock set up

artwork

iTrader: (88)

Interesting setup...I think I can see why you claim to have issues with rear grip as suggested in the notes section of the setup sheet.

Based on what I see this car would rotate really well, but be super hard to drive consistently. I know you guys run different tires and much different carpet over there so setups here would probably not help much.

I am sure you were not looking for feedback . but I would certainly go a much different direction for my driving style...

It is hard to tell, but which car is yours in the video? Sorry, figured it out...Duh!

Skiddins

It's not bad, most small clubs tend to use Sorex 28's etc, we were on Sorex 32JB's.

Plus side is very little tyre wear.

Skiddins

Fair enough, what would you suggest? I want to try and keep as much of the rotation as possible, just stabilise the rear end a bit.
I'm always open to other options, whether they do or don't work

Matt W

The car and setup looks good, the only things I would run different is, 1000-2000 rear diff oil as any higher and I find the rear end snaps, front shocks laid down one hole and front camber link in middle hole not outer.

Then again we probably drive differently so its all up to how you feel driving it!!

Were you running the hagberg rear mod? If so did you also run it at rug racers?

artwork

iTrader: (88)

In my testing the T3 2012 needs to be balanced or it is very hard to drive. Balance mostly comes from springs on the Xray in my testing. I tend to not like the progressive springs, but in lower traction I can see how they could be an asset.

Generally this is what I would try...

2.8 front springs with 400 oil and either 2.4 or 2.2-2.6 progressive rear springs with 350.

I would shim out the top of my front shocks 1mm from the shock tower...this will make the car a bit less aggressive.

I would go back to the 1.2 sway bar in the rear.

I would run more toe in the rear to help forward traction. I would go to 3.5deg.

I would move to the middle hole in the front on the inner camber link.

I would take out the 1mm shim on the inner camber link in the rear.

I would dope less of my front tires so that as the tire heats up it does not over-steer as much. ( I know this one many people do not agree with, but for me this has the absolute biggest affect on how efficient the car feels around the track) ( I think it is better to make the car turn with setup changes rather then full dope, but that is my personal opinion)

BTW- I love the Video...I have watched it like 10 times already very clear and a great shot of the racing.

Mb3195

Hi mate, I got my t3 '12 going really well towards the end of the ardent winter series earlier this year (qualified 2nd in the A in 13.5t class and should have won but for a stupid mistake), haven't messed with the setup too much since, just the occasional tweak.

I can send you it if you want? Be warned though, you may need to dremel the chassis a little!

millbank

Yes please
About to run at the cwic's

Mb3195

i've got it saved as a pdf - drop me a PM and I will email it through.

trigger

iTrader: (15)

Speedtechhobbies.com- pre order 499.

CoreyW.

Below are the changes(in bold) from the original setup I posted.

Front:

2nd hole from top on shock tower
2.7 Xray spring
300cst oil
4X1.1mm pistons
1.4 Xray bar(short endlinks)
2 degrees camber L/R*Reduced "nervous" feeling during turn-in*
4 degree caster blocks*Less mid corner steering and improved turn-in*
1 degree toe-out
1mm spacer in front/rear of arm
Upper links middle hole on bulkhead
2mm under outer link
2mm under inner link
middle roll center blocks
2mm droop(measuring above ride height)
1.5mm Akerman
1mm bumpsteer
stock servo tie-rod position(upper position on servo saver)
Stock track width(1.5mm spacers)
Stock wheel hex with .5mm shim on each side
Xray diff using Plato as filler
52mm ECS shafts

Rear:

2nd hole from top on shock tower
2.3/2.6 Xray progressive spring *I thought the rear spring was 2.4/2.6 but it was actually 2.3/2.6*
300cst oil
4X1.1mm pistons
1.2 Xray bar(short endlinks and middle position on arm)
2.75 degrees camber L/R
3 degrees toe-in(using 1mm shim at the rear instead of stock .7mm)*Improved overall rear grip*
1mm spacer in front of the rear arm(2mm behind)
Upper links middle hole on bulkhead
4.5mm under outer link
2mm under inner link
high roll center blocks(+.75)
2mm droop(measuring above ride height) *reduced "abrupt" turn-in"
Stock track width
Stock wheel hex
Xray diff w/1000cst *Car turned in better and more stable on power*
50mm stock shafts


Notes:

-Added 1mm(2mm total) between shock tower and front shock
-Added 2mm between the bottom of the rear shock and arm.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Many thanks for all your helpful insight and putting up with us here on the boards... It is really nice to see a notes on why the change is made, it really help me to learn...

CoreyW.

I have always found that grip remains the same but the line between neutral and snap oversteer is much finer. You are relying more on the tire when when reducing roll and this can cause them to overheat in some cases. The main advantage is that the reduction of roll at the rear makes the car transition much quicker and allows the car to "sqaure up" sooner. Again, something these progressive springs do not seem to allow. Hense the reason we are running the shocks stood up and the higher real roll centre. Keep in mind that you can go to far, which is why we need to do more testing.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Least expensive place to get the T4 is at Stormer? (when its in stock) Anyone know of another source?