2LikesXray T4 '13
10-11-2013, 12:29 AM
#5041
help
i have been running basically kit asphalt setup with.
21.5 blinky TC
2mm shims under inner links
2mm bumpsteer
kit springs and oil
1600 diff
droop ride height all kit
car is good on muchmore tyres 32,36 and really good on muchmore rush 36 and is ok on ride blue 32's
home track is medium to high grip
state titles this weekend and control tyres are ride rex34 but with carpet insert
temps low 30's celcius
track is again medium to high but more flowing with mid 15 sec laps.
first heat last weekend practise race all good then next heat snap loose on corner entry. tried second car and it is the same.
changed to rush 36 and car was good. so it is the tyres.
general feeling is i am overgripped in front as it is squealing a lot even last night when temps dropped. tyres are shredding and not smooth.
tried.
anti dive, less front camber 1 deg, more rear 3 deg and a bit lower ride height and it helped but was still not good.
then removed rear inner shims and bump shims and was a bit better but getting hard to drive.
car was ok quick for a single lap but would still snap out and spin if driven a bit harder.
then went to 2000 diff but was getting colder by then and really didn't notice
if better or not. everyone slowed a bit.
any suggestions. thinking of starting again with kit setup in first qual and go from there.
i have been running basically kit asphalt setup with.
21.5 blinky TC
2mm shims under inner links
2mm bumpsteer
kit springs and oil
1600 diff
droop ride height all kit
car is good on muchmore tyres 32,36 and really good on muchmore rush 36 and is ok on ride blue 32's
home track is medium to high grip
state titles this weekend and control tyres are ride rex34 but with carpet insert
temps low 30's celcius
track is again medium to high but more flowing with mid 15 sec laps.
first heat last weekend practise race all good then next heat snap loose on corner entry. tried second car and it is the same.
changed to rush 36 and car was good. so it is the tyres.
general feeling is i am overgripped in front as it is squealing a lot even last night when temps dropped. tyres are shredding and not smooth.
tried.
anti dive, less front camber 1 deg, more rear 3 deg and a bit lower ride height and it helped but was still not good.
then removed rear inner shims and bump shims and was a bit better but getting hard to drive.
car was ok quick for a single lap but would still snap out and spin if driven a bit harder.
then went to 2000 diff but was getting colder by then and really didn't notice
if better or not. everyone slowed a bit.
any suggestions. thinking of starting again with kit setup in first qual and go from there.
10-13-2013, 10:45 AM
#5042
Tech Initiate
Hi.
Anyone know what new parts is on the 2014? Should be posible to upgrade my 2013...?
Anyone know what new parts is on the 2014? Should be posible to upgrade my 2013...?
10-13-2013, 12:23 PM
#5043
There will be a lot of parts to convert. New chassis , top deck, and the new arm mounts. I don't think you will be able to find all the parts to convert for a while. Even if you can it would prob cost you close to $200+ to convert it completely. Best to try and sell your '13 and put that $200 into a new fresh kit.
10-13-2013, 03:53 PM
#5044
Alu steering posts!
Hi,
Where can I find shorter alu steering posts for my Xray T4?
I know CSO fits but where can I buy one?
Are there other brands that fit?
Thx for replying.
Where can I find shorter alu steering posts for my Xray T4?
I know CSO fits but where can I buy one?
Are there other brands that fit?
Thx for replying.
10-13-2013, 04:06 PM
#5045
I've been building my shocks like this for a few weeks. Thought I'd share as I've had several people at my track lately ask me about building shocks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlTXJ...ature=youtu.be
Ignore my goofs. I did it all in my first take and didn't notice I was saying o-ring instead of bladder and so on. I'm hoping it makes sense in context.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlTXJ...ature=youtu.be
Ignore my goofs. I did it all in my first take and didn't notice I was saying o-ring instead of bladder and so on. I'm hoping it makes sense in context.
10-13-2013, 07:35 PM
#5049
So I have my car pretty close to ready for this next weekend, which is our first onroad club race of the year. Right now I am about 40g under weight though. I have the Xray 30g weight that goes in the middle under the belt, but would I be better off with regular lead weights at each corner instead? Car is very close to balanced L/R.
10-16-2013, 01:57 PM
#5051
Hey Guys
I just picked up a 2nd hand T4 and will be running 21.5 blinky class.
I know I need an FDR between 3.00 to 3.5, so I went and ordered a 38t Pinion and a 69t Spur Kimbrough spur.
it was only afterwards I should probably ask one here haha, so what gearing should I be looking at for 21.5 blinky?
Sorry if this has been asked before I did a search for 21.5 but nothing specific came up.
I just picked up a 2nd hand T4 and will be running 21.5 blinky class.
I know I need an FDR between 3.00 to 3.5, so I went and ordered a 38t Pinion and a 69t Spur Kimbrough spur.
it was only afterwards I should probably ask one here haha, so what gearing should I be looking at for 21.5 blinky?
Sorry if this has been asked before I did a search for 21.5 but nothing specific came up.
10-16-2013, 02:17 PM
#5053
Hey Guys
I just picked up a 2nd hand T4 and will be running 21.5 blinky class.
I know I need an FDR between 3.00 to 3.5, so I went and ordered a 38t Pinion and a 69t Spur Kimbrough spur.
it was only afterwards I should probably ask one here haha, so what gearing should I be looking at for 21.5 blinky?
Sorry if this has been asked before I did a search for 21.5 but nothing specific came up.
I just picked up a 2nd hand T4 and will be running 21.5 blinky class.
I know I need an FDR between 3.00 to 3.5, so I went and ordered a 38t Pinion and a 69t Spur Kimbrough spur.
it was only afterwards I should probably ask one here haha, so what gearing should I be looking at for 21.5 blinky?
Sorry if this has been asked before I did a search for 21.5 but nothing specific came up.
10-16-2013, 03:03 PM
#5054
Registered User
If you make the Pinion Gear and Spur Gear with the curve gear mesh the center of gravity is divided from the front Spur and rear Spur. I think it will rotate at a constant level so good for cruzing there.
10-16-2013, 03:07 PM
#5055
Hey Guys
I just picked up a 2nd hand T4 and will be running 21.5 blinky class.
I know I need an FDR between 3.00 to 3.5, so I went and ordered a 38t Pinion and a 69t Spur Kimbrough spur.
it was only afterwards I should probably ask one here haha, so what gearing should I be looking at for 21.5 blinky?
Sorry if this has been asked before I did a search for 21.5 but nothing specific came up.
I just picked up a 2nd hand T4 and will be running 21.5 blinky class.
I know I need an FDR between 3.00 to 3.5, so I went and ordered a 38t Pinion and a 69t Spur Kimbrough spur.
it was only afterwards I should probably ask one here haha, so what gearing should I be looking at for 21.5 blinky?
Sorry if this has been asked before I did a search for 21.5 but nothing specific came up.
anywhere from 2.7 on large tracks with some motors up to 3.6 on tigth tracks (riverstone)
i run from 2.77 to 3.25 same track different motors.
pm or post motor type and track you are going run at. also depends on how you drive. you can't always gear by temp either some motors will smoke even at 60c some get hot when geared to high as well (higher fdr)