Xray T4 '13
#3856
Hey guys, my car has been really good for me but im struggling with something as of late. The track conditions I have been running lately would be medium to med-high grip if prepped right, and Im having an issue with corner exit with my rear end breaking loose. could be my fault and need to work on my throttle control, but I was wondering if anyone had an slight changes I can try without changing my setup to much. I just went from -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber in the rear to try and help. Would longer rear links help alos? Thank you
#3857
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Hey guys, my car has been really good for me but im struggling with something as of late. The track conditions I have been running lately would be medium to med-high grip if prepped right, and Im having an issue with corner exit with my rear end breaking loose. could be my fault and need to work on my throttle control, but I was wondering if anyone had an slight changes I can try without changing my setup to much. I just went from -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber in the rear to try and help. Would longer rear links help alos? Thank you
I drilled another hole in the rear arms 3mm closer to the middle for the bottom shock mounting point so I could make the rear even softer.
Last edited by edhchoe; 05-29-2013 at 09:35 PM.
#3859
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Hey guys, my car has been really good for me but im struggling with something as of late. The track conditions I have been running lately would be medium to med-high grip if prepped right, and Im having an issue with corner exit with my rear end breaking loose. could be my fault and need to work on my throttle control, but I was wondering if anyone had any slight changes I can try without changing my setup tpo much. I just went from -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber in the rear to try and help. Would longer rear links help also? Thank you
That said, it could be over rotation due to too stiff of a spring. Without setup details it's hard to know which. Look at Martin Crisp's setup app, many times the advice is to do "this change", or the exact opposite of "this change".
IOW, as the above poster mentioned, a softer rear spring worked for them, but it could also be too soft. More detail is needed.
E
#3860
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Man I tried tons of stuff...but the stuff that did not stick was the following:
1)Medium front roll centers...the car seemed to push without Lows on the front
2)Gear Diff with 2.5 Million...the car was better with the spool
3)4 Deg caster blocks...the car did not turn in very well without 6's on (which seems a bit counter intuitive to me)
4) short camber links all around...made the car really twitchy and harder to drive
5) 2.5 springs front and rear...felt like I needed the car to roll a bit more based on the hardness of the tires
6) Graphite Arms both front and rear...made the car feel numb, this was a very bad idea from the start
7) Less droop...I needed to move more weight around the car to less droop did not help my situation at all
I needed steering so a thinner front bar would have made things worse...I steered clear of that one.
Overall the car was pretty good...I was surprised that I could feel the shimmed up steering rack...but it did seem to make the steering feel a bit more direct
1)Medium front roll centers...the car seemed to push without Lows on the front
2)Gear Diff with 2.5 Million...the car was better with the spool
3)4 Deg caster blocks...the car did not turn in very well without 6's on (which seems a bit counter intuitive to me)
4) short camber links all around...made the car really twitchy and harder to drive
5) 2.5 springs front and rear...felt like I needed the car to roll a bit more based on the hardness of the tires
6) Graphite Arms both front and rear...made the car feel numb, this was a very bad idea from the start
7) Less droop...I needed to move more weight around the car to less droop did not help my situation at all
I needed steering so a thinner front bar would have made things worse...I steered clear of that one.
Overall the car was pretty good...I was surprised that I could feel the shimmed up steering rack...but it did seem to make the steering feel a bit more direct
Not sure if you saw the setup I ran, and if it was due to my running open class that made my recipe work, but my car felt really good. I would highly suggest any of the open guys to give it a shot. If I need to repost, LMK.
E
#3861
I'm very interested in getting a T4.
But I will be racing it with foams and a front differential due to the nature of the track. (carpet, very small technical track, a spool isnt suited to it) so I have a few questions so I am 99.9% sure I will need additional parts from the start.
1) Can anyone tell me if 30mm wide foams will fit? (no big deal if they do not).
2) Can anyone confirm the part numbers needed for a front diff (and I am assuming I will need a packet of driveshaft sleeves too?)
I think the #s are
304900 and 305241
3) Are there any particular build tips not mentioned in the manual that are worth noting?
Many thanks!
But I will be racing it with foams and a front differential due to the nature of the track. (carpet, very small technical track, a spool isnt suited to it) so I have a few questions so I am 99.9% sure I will need additional parts from the start.
1) Can anyone tell me if 30mm wide foams will fit? (no big deal if they do not).
2) Can anyone confirm the part numbers needed for a front diff (and I am assuming I will need a packet of driveshaft sleeves too?)
I think the #s are
304900 and 305241
3) Are there any particular build tips not mentioned in the manual that are worth noting?
Many thanks!
#3862
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
I agree with 99% of what's said here, but I'm confused by one point. 2.5s didn't provide enough roll, but a thinner bar would have made things worse. Was it roll that was needed or was it initial steering provided by the stiffer bar and weight on the tires that was needed?
Not sure if you saw the setup I ran, and if it was due to my running open class that made my recipe work, but my car felt really good. I would highly suggest any of the open guys to give it a shot. If I need to repost, LMK.
E
Not sure if you saw the setup I ran, and if it was due to my running open class that made my recipe work, but my car felt really good. I would highly suggest any of the open guys to give it a shot. If I need to repost, LMK.
E
A thinner bar in the front would have helped mid and exit...but I needed more initial turn in. After talking to Paul we both agreed that a thinner bar was probably not the right approach.
I have not seen your setup but I am interested to see how it differed.
#3863
Tech Adept
Narrowing front track!!
Hi
What are the main differences in handling between narrowing the front wheel track by using thinner wheel hexes or using smaller washers on the wishbone mounts?
What are the main differences in handling between narrowing the front wheel track by using thinner wheel hexes or using smaller washers on the wishbone mounts?
#3864
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
I ended up running 2.3s...but I started with 2.5s. I believe I got the roll I needed with the 2.3s. 2.5s just felt too stiff in mod.
A thinner bar in the front would have helped mid and exit...but I needed more initial turn in. After talking to Paul we both agreed that a thinner bar was probably not the right approach.
I have not seen your setup but I am interested to see how it differed.
A thinner bar in the front would have helped mid and exit...but I needed more initial turn in. After talking to Paul we both agreed that a thinner bar was probably not the right approach.
I have not seen your setup but I am interested to see how it differed.
I think this setup worked well because I got the roll I wanted by running a very light or no bar. I'd like to try lower roll centers though, I'll give it a shot next time out.
For reference, the spring chart here shows the spring stiffness comparison, it's a pretty big jump to Red springs from the standard 2.5 or 2.3.
Last edited by erchn; 05-30-2013 at 09:04 AM. Reason: Add link to spring chart.
#3865
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Narrower hexes can make the car react a bit quicker, and feel a little less stable.
#3869
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Oil and piston tuning I find very useful in several different circumstances. They are far more important outdoors than indoors though.
1.Bumpy tracks: More pack helps out on tracks that are bumpy. It prevents the car from bottoming out over bumps and chassis slapping. This is much more important in mod than in stock.
1.Bumpy tracks: More pack helps out on tracks that are bumpy. It prevents the car from bottoming out over bumps and chassis slapping. This is much more important in mod than in stock.
2.Hot weather: For every 15 or so degrees of temperature, I tend to go up about 50cst. Here in Texas, we'll be racing in the winter in 40-50 degree weather and in the Summer we get to run in 100+ temps. That means that when it's cold I am at 300-350 and when it's hot I run around 450-500. If I don't compensate for the heat, the car has no damping.
3.High bite: While I have limited experience with the T4 on high bite, I have always run heavier oil in higher grip conditions. Typically more so in the front. Going to heavier oil in the front will mellow out the reaction time of the car and this makes it easier to drive.
4.Pack can help in mid-to high speed transitions. Like chicanes.
Overall though, I do these days prefer a 4hole piston over a 3hole, certainly outdoors. My target there is to have a shock setup that is supple over the bumps, but still with a decent level of roll control... which comes down to tweaking the shocks to alter the high and low speed damping.
Regards
Ed
#3870
Tryhards post is the reason I post on here, to get everyone's opinion on a certain subject