Xray T4 '13
#3781
Tech Elite
iTrader: (53)
My reasoning is... Thicker oil will give more even power to both rear wheels upon acceleration and make the rear end loose. Thinner diff oil will give more power to the wheel with less grip and the rear end will have less contribution than the front end upon acceleration which will make the car more stable coming out of a turn.
If my problem is understeering I would change my diff oil to thicker one.
If my problem is understeering I would change my diff oil to thicker one.
#3782
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
I also have been testing with RSD6 steering arms and found that they work when using some flange bearings. The RSD6 arms are 0.5mm longer and provide a lot more steering lock. For once I am actually struggling to take steering out of the car.
Once we figure out the correct balance we will release a steering arm conversion for the T4. The increase in steering is really amazing.
#3783
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Yes, I did try the silver springs (better than green), and they were good, but my car was loose mid-corner right when getting on throttle, had a wiggle. Going to a harder spring all around and removing the bars kept a similar roll, but allowed a more aggressive acceleration and braking attitude to the car.
Ethan
#3784
My reasoning is... Thicker oil will give more even power to both rear wheels upon acceleration and make the rear end loose. Thinner diff oil will give more power to the wheel with less grip and the rear end will have less contribution than the front end upon acceleration which will make the car more stable coming out of a turn.
If my problem is understeering I would change my diff oil to thicker one.
If my problem is understeering I would change my diff oil to thicker one.
look at the vat majority of set ups at most tracks and the rear diff oil is around 2000 cst.
I had a similar problem to you when I first ran my T4 indoors on a large carpet track. Changed to 2000cst rear diff oil and it was far, far better.
The description of oil changes in the instructions is actually misleading.
Seriously try putting in 2000cst oil.
is you problem similar to this? see suggestions & explanation
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12168621-post3648.html
Last edited by Barry_Hughes; 05-27-2013 at 11:25 AM. Reason: added link
#3785
Tech Elite
iTrader: (53)
trying to find the post relating to this, but with 700 cst the car actually rotates a lot quicker and the rear is loose, with 2000cst the car actually powers out of the mid & exit of the corner better, which as I understand is your problem.
look at the vat majority of set ups at most tracks and the rear diff oil is around 2000 cst.
I had a similar problem to you when I first ran my T4 indoors on a large carpet track. Changed to 2000cst rear diff oil and it was far, far better.
The description of oil changes in the instructions is actually misleading.
Seriously try putting in 2000cst oil.
look at the vat majority of set ups at most tracks and the rear diff oil is around 2000 cst.
I had a similar problem to you when I first ran my T4 indoors on a large carpet track. Changed to 2000cst rear diff oil and it was far, far better.
The description of oil changes in the instructions is actually misleading.
Seriously try putting in 2000cst oil.
#3786
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
You do understand that having more drive at the rear wheels can give you more traction, right? I'm assuming that you looked at some setup book that says increasing the rear diff oil will provide more steering... We aren't dealing with absolutes here. 2000 diff oil is certainly not an extreme and will probably help you as mentioned before. Being a SLOW it all gets you nowhere, so be open to the advice that is given, especially when you are the one to solicit such information.
If I go to the race with all the setup suggestions and if they don't work I can try different things such as taking the rear bar off again. However, I can't rebuild the diff with lighter oil if the heavier oil make it worse. I just don't have time for that at the track. And I don't want to buy another diff in order to be able to quickly swap them out. I am just not at that level of competitiveness.
If all fails I will go explore the suggestions that are not intuitive.
I appreciate everyone's suggestions.
#3788
Is there a place to read and that has pic off how to adjust and setup sway bars?
My rear sway bars when I move the rear arms up and down don't lift each other up?
My rear sway bars when I move the rear arms up and down don't lift each other up?
#3789
I will try other suggestions first because they make sense.
If I go to the race with all the setup suggestions and if they don't work I can try different things such as taking the rear bar off again. However, I can't rebuild the diff with lighter oil if the heavier oil make it worse. I just don't have time for that at the track. And I don't want to buy another diff in order to be able to quickly swap them out. I am just not at that level of competitiveness.
If all fails I will go explore the suggestions that are not intuitive.
I appreciate everyone's suggestions.
If I go to the race with all the setup suggestions and if they don't work I can try different things such as taking the rear bar off again. However, I can't rebuild the diff with lighter oil if the heavier oil make it worse. I just don't have time for that at the track. And I don't want to buy another diff in order to be able to quickly swap them out. I am just not at that level of competitiveness.
If all fails I will go explore the suggestions that are not intuitive.
I appreciate everyone's suggestions.
Eliminating the sway bar is beneficial on tracks with really uneven rough surfaces as, even though a bar will flatten out a cars feel, if one wheel is bouncng more than another, the bar will transfer that over. Although this could be a indicator that you don't have the proper dampening or one weak shock as well.
#3791
[QUOTE=TT_Vert;12195344]
Seems to work for blinky class on high traction carpet. This guy was looking for a quick change to try over a fluid change, and this has worked for me on occasion.
Seems to work for blinky class on high traction carpet. This guy was looking for a quick change to try over a fluid change, and this has worked for me on occasion.
#3792
#3794
Damian i found out why my car was pants yesterday,i had a seized bearing in the right rear hub which explains why it wanted to spin out off power on right handers and i got carried away with the shrink tubing on the driveshafts,id made boots to keep the grease in but they reduced the amount of up travel at the wishbones,lol
fixed now,spent the day at aldershot and its planted again,i even had a blast around with a 5.5t mod motor,could easily get hooked with that power,marlon and the guys from cpd were there and they were running mod,it was nice to be faster than marlon after a days testing,i had a better day testing today than the terrible meeting yesterday
fixed now,spent the day at aldershot and its planted again,i even had a blast around with a 5.5t mod motor,could easily get hooked with that power,marlon and the guys from cpd were there and they were running mod,it was nice to be faster than marlon after a days testing,i had a better day testing today than the terrible meeting yesterday
#3795
my next question is,i now have about 3.8 deg of toe in at the rear to keep the rear in check,this was with the ltcr other than using the speed 6 is there another way of getting the rear to not slide out off power at the end of the banked sweeper? that was the only way i could get it to grip,it hasnt affected the steering so overall the car should be faster,i wasnt checking lap times,the tracks grip came up as there were 5 of us constantly cleaning up the track,but even as the track cooled off it still made no difference to the handling,its the first time ive had the rear so good,im actually looking forward to the next meeting at wlrc
Last edited by chasingthepack; 05-27-2013 at 01:56 PM.