Spec-R R1
#3376
Tech Fanatic
Aftermarket.
These are the ones that I bought:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2731
These are the ones that I bought:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2731
#3377
Tech Fanatic
#3378
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Just another data point... my S2 diff o-rings swelled up into donuts too. It felt fine when I assembled it initially, but the car had pretty severe understeer, so I tore the diff down to check. It wasn't so much that they were squeezing the outdrive axles, but they were coming out of their grooves and pressing on the 5x14 shims and causing a godawful amount of friction. Someone said TRF 5mm o-rings worked so those are on order...
Also the SPR010-SC screws do work on the HD Diff. As I mentioned before, the phillips head kit screws were falling apart almost instantly.
Also the SPR010-SC screws do work on the HD Diff. As I mentioned before, the phillips head kit screws were falling apart almost instantly.
#3379
Tech Addict
#3380
Tech Fanatic
Oh well, it doesn't really matter.
I installed the chassis last night. All of the holes lined up perfectly. No additional shimming/removing of shims was required. A pleasant surprise is that this chassis is ~5mm narrower than the pro spec chassis (not including the servo mount protrusion on the pro spec chassis). The finish isn't as shiny on the new chassis, but that shouldn't affect the performance anyways.
#3383
Just another data point... my S2 diff o-rings swelled up into donuts too. It felt fine when I assembled it initially, but the car had pretty severe understeer, so I tore the diff down to check. It wasn't so much that they were squeezing the outdrive axles, but they were coming out of their grooves and pressing on the 5x14 shims and causing a godawful amount of friction. Someone said TRF 5mm o-rings worked so those are on order...
Also the SPR010-SC screws do work on the HD Diff. As I mentioned before, the phillips head kit screws were falling apart almost instantly.
Also the SPR010-SC screws do work on the HD Diff. As I mentioned before, the phillips head kit screws were falling apart almost instantly.
The O rings were a big issue I just bought the x-ray ones.
#3384
Has anybody tried putting the S1 gear diff in the S2? Or vice versa? Were any advantages found? Any comments on which gear diff you thought was superior (in terms of drive ratio or not leaking or something else?
Also, tqrcracing only has internals for the S1 gear diff. Has anybody found a US source for S2 gear diff parts?
#3385
S1 center pulley and metal motor mount
Has anybody found a perfect way to install the center pulley in the S2 metal motor mount so there is no friction when the screws are tightened fully? The pulley shaft is longer than the width of the motor mount and the plastic bushings have flanges on them that can make a lot of drag.
Photos of your installation would be appreciated if you have them.
Photos of your installation would be appreciated if you have them.
#3386
Tech Addict
Either gear diff will fit either car.
Here's how I resolved the friction problem when the screws are fully tightened.
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Wait for it...
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I didn't tighten them fully.
For realz...
That and I mix and match the bushings. One white, one black. Or I sand down one bushing.
BTW, the flanges should be on the outside of the mount and will not touch the bearing inside the center pulley.
Here's how I resolved the friction problem when the screws are fully tightened.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Wait for it...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
I didn't tighten them fully.
For realz...
That and I mix and match the bushings. One white, one black. Or I sand down one bushing.
BTW, the flanges should be on the outside of the mount and will not touch the bearing inside the center pulley.
Last edited by .crispy; 10-23-2014 at 02:50 PM.
#3387
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Here's how I did it. I used POM bushings but it works the same with the black kit bushings.
Flanges go on the outside with a couple of 7mm x .3mm shims. You want to be able to tighten the screw all the way without compressing the bushings and bulkheads. Done up this way my spur assembly has only .1mm of axial play and nothing rubs.
Flanges go on the outside with a couple of 7mm x .3mm shims. You want to be able to tighten the screw all the way without compressing the bushings and bulkheads. Done up this way my spur assembly has only .1mm of axial play and nothing rubs.
#3388
Here's how I did it. I used POM bushings but it works the same with the black kit bushings.
Flanges go on the outside with a couple of 7mm x .3mm shims. You want to be able to tighten the screw all the way without compressing the bushings and bulkheads. Done up this way my spur assembly has only .1mm of axial play and nothing rubs.
Flanges go on the outside with a couple of 7mm x .3mm shims. You want to be able to tighten the screw all the way without compressing the bushings and bulkheads. Done up this way my spur assembly has only .1mm of axial play and nothing rubs.
#3389
Either gear diff will fit either car.
Here's how I resolved the friction problem when the screws are fully tightened.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Wait for it...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
I didn't tighten them fully.
For realz...
That and I mix and match the bushings. One white, one black. Or I sand down one bushing.
BTW, the flanges should be on the outside of the mount and will not touch the bearing inside the center pulley.
Here's how I resolved the friction problem when the screws are fully tightened.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Wait for it...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
I didn't tighten them fully.
For realz...
That and I mix and match the bushings. One white, one black. Or I sand down one bushing.
BTW, the flanges should be on the outside of the mount and will not touch the bearing inside the center pulley.