BajaSkidmark

Here is a couple minor "bitch points" about the R1 kit...

1) scanned the manual over three times looking for what pitch the stock spur gear was. Only thing it mentions for the spur gear was an "84" in one of the pictures. Ok, 84 tooth... the manual does not list the pitch anywhere. Several posts in this thread about guys using 64 pitch spurs and pinions, so I "assumed" the stock spur was 64 pitch. Wrong! It must be a 48 pitch since the pinion I picked up won't mesh... Using the stock 84 tooth spur will mean a 40 pinion = 3.99 fdr, a 41 pinion = 3.89 fdr. LHS don't have any, so ordering online.

2) on a much less minor point, one of the 3mm x 4 set screws came without the hex broached into the end. noticed the round hole under magnification when I couldn't get the hex wrench in it. Darn things are so tiny I am not surprised one slipped thru the QC process... LHS don't have any, so ordering these online as well.

Overall I am pleased with the quality of the chassis kit. Can't wait to get out and drive it though....

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

The stock spur gear is indeed 48 pitch which I replaced with a 64 pitch spur during the build on my S1 sedan.

BajaSkidmark

Are the 64 pitch gears better, and if so why? Total noob here... I noticed all of the Spec-R brand spur gears for sale on TQRC are 64 pitch as well. Made me think the one in the kit was a 64. They don't list a 48 pitch replacement part.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I can't say that 64P is better than 48P, but for me the finer 64P gears allows for more precise tuning of my FDR.

Jeckler

iTrader: (6)

A 40t 48p pinion is going to be huge. With a 84t spur, I don't think it'll even fit in the mount.
Better bet is get a spur in the 75t (48p) or 100t (64p) range with a 35t (48p) or 47t (64p) pinion, for an fdr of 4.04 (4.07 for the 48p)) and go from there.
To convert 48 to 64, divide by .75. To go from 64 to 48, multiply by .75.

gearchart.com is great for figuring out ratios beforehand.

.crispy

Hey, at least all of your turnbuckles were threaded...

I settled on a 96 tooth 64 pitch spur. I found I can get the range of pinions on that I need for the classes I run. I run anywhere from a 3.6 to 4.2 FDR.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

That's exactly what I have done as well.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

i did the same thing to lowerdeck, work much more better than standard..

BajaSkidmark

I have had my drive line apart like four times already before I ran across this problem. Really didn't want to take it apart again. I used shims on the lay shaft instead of the flanged bearings, and the shims are a pain to assemble. Should have went with the flanged bearings, would have made it easier in the long run. By the time this thing is on the track I will have torn it down and put it back together five or six times! Gotta learn somehow, I guess...

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

And that's absolutely nothing compared to the 12 screws you will have to remove if you want to access to the spur on a Hotbodies TCXX!

You can look for the optional delrin inserts, so you can avoid the usage of this sh--ty shims...

Bappe

got my s1 chassi today, has narrowed it down to 85mm wide (100mm std), think i will copy the shape of the carbon chassi to get more flex, will test it on the track first as it is now

my modified r1 chassi compared to the std s1



After some work with the dremel:

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

Looks good!

Let us know how it handles.

Cheers,

Bappe

will do! did some more dremeling on the s1 chassi today, looks just like my r1 chassi now. got some new ideas that i will try out tomorrow, the chassi is really stiff.. wish they could make a 2mm version instead, my dremel is really getting hurt right now

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

re - spool
this is a real pain. I raced on Tuesday & had 2 dnf due to the screw on my spool backing out causing the outdrive to loosen. I stripped it down & found that the kit m3 x 8 screw isn't long enough to bite. I've put a longer screw in & it is now tight. I'll run it tonight; so fingers crossed. Can't wait for my gear diff to arrive !!!

.crispy

Yeah, a really tight gear diff (500,000 wt.) gives you the best of both worlds I think.

Keep in mind, you will need drive shaft blades to put on your drive shafts. The spool doesn't need them but the outdrive on the gear diff does.