Spec-R R1

Old 03-12-2013, 06:37 PM
  #1126  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
For the price of an R1, just buy two kits.

-Mike
If I did that, I'd end up with two complete cars and then I'd need twice as many parts...

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Old 03-12-2013, 11:01 PM
  #1127  
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
If I did that, I'd end up with two complete cars and then I'd need twice as many parts...

Lol, no kidding. I meant S1, by the way.

-Mike
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
But adding some weights to the R1 would still be ok, no?



I'm slightly confused... I thought Jeff Jenkins ran at your track, and he was using 5000? I'll probably pick up a few weights to play with anyway, so I could always put something lighter in.
Jeff does race at our track and he did have a R1, he now races another car.
The reason why 5000 weight seems to work well on the r1 (is believed) to be because the gear diff has a couple of bearings in it that the other gear diffs do not have. It seems this makes the spec r1 gear diff much smoother and thereby allowing a heavier weight oil. This was ran by other experienced racers in other countries with similar results.

Steve
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:13 AM
  #1129  
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I just read through the entire thread (only read parts before), and I feel like the R1 would be a great place to start for a total TC noob like me. I'm thinking of trying out racing in the local stock 17.5 class, and everything I read here sounds good for that.

So, other than breaking the pivot pins and occasional plastic, any other durability/wear issues I should know about? ...

...Before I pull the trigger, I'm coming up with a list of immediate upgrades. I have the Tamiya ball ends, the flange bearings, maybe Tamiya shock o-rings. Anything else I should get from TQRC with my order?

Going to try 5000wt oil in the back diff, stick with spool up front. But I see that the Spec-R diffs for the R1 tend to leak and sanding is necessary.

Throw it all at me if you feel I should know it
I went with the S1 being a TC noob myself and I have been more than happy with my purchase. If you go with the S1 the $160 price difference will allow you to upgrade the areas of the car as you need them as you improve. The only “upgrades” on my S1 are sway bars right now and the only one I would suggest to get off the bat is the upgraded aluminum steering rack and some shims for it. My plastic one has some slop and that’s about the only area of the car for me that bothers me as far as quality. I did not have to cut/grind the upper deck or anything in the diff as others have. The only modification I made to my car during the build was lightly sanding down the front spool spacers because they were a little tight in the front between the bearings. I also did not need the flanged bearings around the spur either, I started the build with the Spec-R kit spur then changed teeth and just happened to pick up a Kimbro spur, using both without problems. The only thing I would say about going to Tamiya ball cups would be maybe there will be less slop on the ball? I don’t have a problem adjusting mine, the Spec-R’s don’t pop off but feel a little loose on the ball. Just thread the tie-rod in them and then back it off to the length required before installation.

As far as spare parts I can’t help you, I’ve yet to break anything. I don’t know how good you are at driving or not so I would base spares on whether or not you could stand to miss the rest of the race day due to not having a replacement part. I currently don’t carry any spares in my box but I am club racing and also running other classes so if my S1 breaks I will just order the part and wait till the next race. I try not to over tighten the set screw on the pivot pins so no problems there for me.

My diff leaked when I first built my kit but that was before I knew to tighten them down pretty good to allow the rubber gasket to also aid in sealing the diff. Also going to something like 5000wt will help, I have not had any leaks since going to heavy oil and a tight diff housing.

Good luck! It’s a fun car to race and I think it has taken the best of all the cars and put them together, the suspension pivots (aluminum ones) use inserts, has 3 different holes to mount motor incase spur blocks one, great layout, a lot of suspension mounting locations on arms and towers. Just a very solid car to learn on.

Build by Spec-R with photos:
http://www.spec-r.com/default/index.php?main_page=news

Last edited by nrtv20; 03-13-2013 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:50 PM
  #1130  
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Well guys ...

Here the pics and the videos.

Just to remember you some info :

- Event : Chilean Nats, 2nd Stage 2013
- Context : S1 and R1 debut, only 1 day testing prior to race but on different track.
- Classes : 8.5 Brushless (Blinky ROAR approved ESC's but mechanical timing permited) and 13.5 Brushless (full blinky, no mech timing permitted). Outdoor asphalt rubber bassed tires.


Results :

- S1 : TQ and 1st place on A-Main.
- R1 : TQ and 4th place on A-Main (batt failure).



MY R1 for 8.5 Class (blinky mode - mechanical timing allowed) sorry i suck on wiring ! :






















My partner's S1 for 13.5 class (full stock blinky) this guy is the distributor for SpecR in my country :






Videos (check them on HD) :

S1 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiJ_d..._jTrGVcMXg_GeA

R1 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLsFi..._jTrGVcMXg_GeA


About othe drivers, most of them are XRAY T3 cars and Associated 6.1's, some Tamiya's 417's on the track and one Hotbodies TCXX very fast driver. Only 2 SpecR's so far at the track, one S1 and one R1 lol !!, but importer already sold 5 more cars this week so will see more Spec's on the track soon ...

any comment is more than welcome ...

This weekend i have another race, is local-club but open so lots of people will race.

regards,
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:29 PM
  #1131  
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SERIOUSLY SPEC-R???

Come on man... Second S1 kit. Second time the steering turnbuckle is crap!

Luckily I anticipated it and ordered the aluminum turnbuckles. But I shouldn't have had to spend the extra $3.89.
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:38 PM
  #1132  
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But did you get all 4 body posts?
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:31 AM
  #1133  
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I'm having a few issues with Spec-R's spurs and pinions combinations.

I bought the 106 tooth 96p spur, mainly because I already have pinions in the range of 43 to 55 (odds only) and I wanted FDRs in the 4.5 to 3.7 range.

Keep in mind that Spec-R's spurs start around 104 and go up from there.

But with the 106 on, I couldn't even get my 49 on the car. The gears are too big and the motor doesn't slide far enough over for them to even fit. The 47 fit but the mesh was too tight. I have the 45 on now, but that gives me a 4.48 FDR and no room to adjust down if I'm too slow.

I guess I'm going to buy some smaller spurs. But I thought everyone should be aware that with any spur in that size range, you're going to be very limited on what pinions you can use.

P.S. With Spec-R's narrower spurs, there is no binding issues.
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:36 PM
  #1134  
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Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
My partner's S1 for 13.5 class (full stock blinky) this guy is the distributor for SpecR in my country :




,
wow, is that a andys stratus? or is it the hpi one?
havent seen those in a long time
the andys stratus was da bomb in the end of the 90`s! (that and the protoform stratus) the hpi stratus was just... crap

going to try something new to my r1 for the coming weekend, shave off 7mm of the chassi to get it down to 84mm wide, will also try the std topdeck to the "B" spec one
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:18 AM
  #1135  
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trimmed the chassi down to 84.5mm, will be testing it nexr weekend, heres the result:





one thing for sure, i will NEVER do this by hand with a dremel again!
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:12 AM
  #1136  
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Well my S1 made its debut here in Austin. It didn't go as well as I expected in VTA class. I followed Jeff Jenkins set-up to the T and no luck prevailed on med. grip asphalt, the rear end tended to wash out quite a bit so I was unable to give full throttle during the heats. I finally had to dismantle the rear sway bar to at least finish a decent run. Any1 have any experience on asphalt as I am still learning this car. I raced mod with a different car and missed tq by a computer glitch, so my driving skills are somewhat there.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:32 AM
  #1137  
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looking at the suspension geometry of the car i would take look and copy a trf 417 setup and go from there
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:16 AM
  #1138  
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Guys running S1 !!! Remember that when you copy r1 setup, some things DIFFER in basic setup and parts.
I already asked about the kit springs, but i see that numbers look the same as yokomo ones, but they fill much harder.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:32 AM
  #1139  
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Just wanted to share experiences of breakages on the S1. My son has run his for a couple of months and broken a spool outdrive and a driveshaft. I ran my properly for the first time on Thursday and snapped 2 driveshafts in 3 races. We've run Kyosho and Xray cars for 5 years and we've broken more S1parts in this short time that the whole of the 5 years. I'm concerned that having decided on a sportsman car that I'm going to spend a fortune on replacing poor quality parts.

On a separate note, the broken drive shafts I believe are due to the lack of play from the spool. Any impact has caused the driveshaft to take the hit as something had to give. Anyone else has this problem ?

My son now has a gear diff in the front and I'm ordering one for my car. Neither of us has ever used a spool before so this was a new experience.

We've going through so many parts (particularly drive shafts !) I'm leaning towards buying a whole car as a replacement and keeping a stock of spares. Any one else gone down this route ?

Overall though, I did enjoy the driving experience and look forward to running the car a bit harder once I get used to it.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:16 PM
  #1140  
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What keeps the battery from hitting the main belt when using the velcro battery strap? I've looked and couldn't find any steps mentioning using stoppers of some sort in the manual.
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