.crispy

Don't know all of them, but when I'm selecting Spec-R parts off the TQ Racing website in the description is says fits "Xray T3, Spec-R R1, etc..."

Outdrives, driveshafts, Differentials.

PitNamedGordie

iTrader: (8)

I have also broken an outer hinge pin. I think someone has mentioned they have also. I am assuming that the set screw may have been over tightened? Or, that is just a weak point in the kit. I am thinking of trying some Tamiya titanium nitride coated pins.

You'd have to share the rest of your setup to see why you are rolling too much. But, I've had too much roll also and I am running 2000 in my diff. I am going to be testing out 3000 and 5000 this weekend. Our current track layout has a lot of S turns so it should be a good test bed.

sghx60

can someone tell me if the carbon front bumper mount comes with the top and bottom parts, or just the top. i broke the bottom part of the mount this weekend and was going to order the carbon one.

puhrot

iTrader: (15)

It is only the top piece and mounting hardware. It does not include the lower mount. If you are looking to upgrade the lower mount, the Xray parts are a direct replacement. I put the xray bumper mount and hard bumper on my R1 after my vintage car had a run in with a brick.

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Nope the carbon front bumper plate only contains the carbon fiber plate, without anything else... By the way, this item won't come in contact with the sway bar support...

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

I was also thinking about either going with the tamiya or possibly try to find a Xray pin that might work,
I am running very basic setup, 3000 diff fluid, -2 camber f/r, -4 toe in back, 0 toe in front, 35 wt shock fluid all around, stock r1 springs, 5mm droop and 5mm ride height, everything else is basically setup from stock. I get around the more technical turns with out a problem, it when I am going into a 90 degree turn after straight away the car seems to either roll or go onto 2 wheels before settling. I also know there is a possibility that my car is doing this because it is unbalanced, but I am not to sure how to get the car balance with out breaking the bank to get a fancy setup station or tweak board. Any suggestions... Local track is have a big race 3 weeks from now so I'm trying to get this right.
Any help would be great..
Cheers,

bshookup

iTrader: (21)

My friend and I have been enjoying running our bone stock S1's and seeing if we can keep up with the high dollar cars. The car is pretty darn capable, and I can safely say that I've gotten my $120 out of it!

I've seen a lot of R1 setups posted, but not a ton of S1 setups. We found a carpet setup that I think is decent enough to share. We got it to work on two cars and at both Timezone and the Seattle RC Racers track with both Sweep and Team Powers 32s. I was able to qualify 2nd and finish 3rd at the ROAR Region 11 Carpet Regionals 17.5 sedan class yesterday while keeping up with those expensive cars. The car was stable and easy to drive.

I wish more companies would make low dollar cars like this with plastic and FRP so there would be a lot of low cost options for new racers.

Setup attached

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I'm betting you're flipping because your car is too stuck / pushy, and you're using too much steering to make it turn. Start by reducing rear toe to 3*, and turn down your dual rate. Next, make sure you don't have too much droop, especially in front. Shoot for about 2mm up travel in front and 2.5mm rear. I don't know what that is on a gauge on the spec-r. This will keep the car much flatter and lower in the turns. Thicker shock oil can help as well. Also, see if you can move some weight farther forward and lower. Lowering the body, and running a lightweight body can help a lot. A shorter wheel base can help the car to rotate instead of flipping, too.

-Mike

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I just read through the entire thread (only read parts before), and I feel like the R1 would be a great place to start for a total TC noob like me. I'm thinking of trying out racing in the local stock 17.5 class, and everything I read here sounds good for that.

So, other than breaking the pivot pins and occasional plastic, any other durability/wear issues I should know about?

A lot of guys here seem to be running Team Associated, but I don't like to run with the crowd It sounds like my lack of driving skills will be keeping me in the back, not the R1, am I right?

Before I pull the trigger, I'm coming up with a list of immediate upgrades. I have the Tamiya ball ends, the flange bearings, maybe Tamiya shock o-rings. Anything else I should get from TQRC with my order?

Going to try 5000wt oil in the back diff, stick with spool up front. But I see that the Spec-R diffs for the R1 tend to leak and sanding is necessary. Should I just get the Spec-R diff for the XRay and call it good instead?

Throw it all at me if you feel I should know it

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

FYI, Jeff Jenkins is local to us. So you can pick his brain about build / setup.

-Mike

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Yeah, I saw his setups throughout the thread, I just wasn't sure which tracks he raced at. I'll be like a little sponge for knowledge.

.crispy

I'm getting a second one. I decided to go with another S1. The aluminum and carbon parts are lighter and MAYBE more durable, but nothing that you get with the R1 makes you "go faster". Yes, I know that lighter is a go fast part. And I know you get more tune-ability.

This time around I did buy the Tamiya ball ends. Don't know if they'll really help. The issue with the stock ball ends is that the threads don't turn in the base of the ball end and I pop them off when adjusting.

Also bought the aluminum steering rack. Since I broke my plastic one on the other, I figured that was a good upgrade. Did buy the sway bars also.

Finally I bought a second gear diff for the front just like on my other. With 500,000 wt oil in there, it drives wonderfully for me. I put 80 wt shock oil in the rear. Certainly not 5000. If you run the gear diff halves on some 600 sandpaper for just a second you'll be fine.

Other than that, all stock.

But since you're going you're own way, you're going to need spares. I literally spent $75 or more on spares. Arms, knuckles, pivot pins, set of belts, steering rack, etc... But since I got the S1. I had the money.

.crispy

And since I had left-over money... I had this made:



and the front...



Represent!

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

For our Scale Spec class, the min weight is 1450g. Having the heavier chassis might not be such a bad thing.

Yeah, 5000 is probably too heavy for a slow-motor class on our carpet. I think it'll make the car rotate really lazy.

For the price of an R1, just buy two kits.

-Mike

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

But adding some weights to the R1 would still be ok, no?

I'm slightly confused... I thought Jeff Jenkins ran at your track, and he was using 5000? I'll probably pick up a few weights to play with anyway, so I could always put something lighter in.