Spec-R R1

Old 03-05-2013, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
This worked great over the weekend on Summit's low/med bite carpet.
Do you have a link for where i can find those springs.
Cheers,
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:56 AM
  #1082  
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
Do you have a link for where i can find those springs.
Cheers,
Any hobby store sells Associated springs. They sell a nice kit with all of them or you can buy them individually for around $3 a pair.

But you can use any springs. Refer to this:

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/Univ...pringChart.pdf

Since I was familiar with AE, that's what I used. I am making the assumption that the Spec-R springs that came with the kit use the same color coding as X-Ray. So instead of the AE blue, I just used the Spec-R white on the front. (Spec-R calls the whites "soft" and the reds "hard" and that matches up with the chart and there are a lot of crossover parts between Spec-R and X-Ray what with Spec-R making a lot of X-Ray parts, etc. etc. etc...)

Follow this link for the silvers. Blues, Greens, Golds, all in the same spot. I don't get the kit because I never use the really hard ones.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...145lb-Silver-2

Also, some AE springs are labeled Factory Team which means they are $2 more per set. Spring rate is the same, so I have no idea why'd you pay more?
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:00 PM
  #1083  
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
Any hobby store sells Associated springs. They sell a nice kit with all of them or you can buy them individually for around $3 a pair.

But you can use any springs. Refer to this:

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/Univ...pringChart.pdf

Since I was familiar with AE, that's what I used. I am making the assumption that the Spec-R springs that came with the kit use the same color coding as X-Ray. So instead of the AE blue, I just used the Spec-R white on the front. (Spec-R calls the whites "soft" and the reds "hard" and that matches up with the chart and there are a lot of crossover parts between Spec-R and X-Ray what with Spec-R making a lot of X-Ray parts, etc. etc. etc...)

Follow this link for the silvers. Blues, Greens, Golds, all in the same spot. I don't get the kit because I never use the really hard ones.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...145lb-Silver-2

Also, some AE springs are labeled Factory Team which means they are $2 more per set. Spring rate is the same, so I have no idea why'd you pay more?
As you can tell i am still fairly new to this on-road game, so just to get this right go with softer spring in the front and slightly stiffer in the rear.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
As you can tell i am still fairly new to this on-road game, so just to get this right go with softer spring in the front and slightly stiffer in the rear.

Thanks for the help.
Usually the opposite. Stiffer in the front and softer in the rear. Both with springs and shock oil.

Of course, this can vary based on conditions and driving style.

I started off with my normal TC4 setup with Silvers in the front and Greens in the rear. Easy to drive but I noticed I had a lot of body roll even with my 5.5mm ride height. So I went to Blues in the front and Silver in the rear to stiffen it up a bit. A little bit faster that way. I could stiffen it up a bit more but at some point I'd lose rear grip.

Keep in mind, you can just use the "whites" you got with the kit on the front. They're halfway in between AE's gold and blue. Then buy and use Silvers on the rear.

Personally, I'd purchase AE Gold, Blue, Silver and Green to have on hand. That's all of $12.
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by pata View Post
Thank you for all the answers and good info.

A couple more things...

- Could you post a side pic of your car with the installed servo saver so I can see the alignment with the steering bell crank?. I'm curious to know how each brand fits and clear steering bell crank and top deck.

- Which is the biggest spur/pinion combo that can be fitted in car? I'm aiming at ratio 5 or 4,90. either 48p/60p

- What about the spec-r spring set for outdoor? will they make it? as I want to order some extra spares I will be willing to add them to order and save on shipping..
Spring Set For 1/10 Touring Car (2.5~2.8)
Spring Set For 1/10 Touring Car (2.9~3.2)

thank you.
I can answer some of these.

You want the angle of the servo arm to be at 90 degrees to the steering arm to get equal throw to either side. So I powered up my servo and then put my servo saver/arm on such that the ball was at about the 11 o'clock position looking at it in the picture. Because my servo saver didn't extend out as far as the kit arm, I used a longer ball stud and the spacer shown.

The blue turnbuckle came from a Tamiya because Spec-R DIDN'T BOTHER TO THREAD ONE SIDE of the one I got in my kit.



As for which Spur/Pinion combo to use, I suggest going with one that will allow you to use smaller pinions. Because of the top deck, I found it easier to get 45 tooth (all 64p) and lower pinions on and harder the larger the pinion got. As you can see in this picture, the larger pinion fits because of the slot in the upper deck, but sliding it on the shaft of the motor with the motor mounted is impossible because of the size. Lesson: SMALLER PINIONS SLIDE RIGHT ON.



So, to get to a 5.0 FDR, you could use Spec-R's own 114 tooth spur and a 43 tooth pinion and you'd be at 5.03 FDR. A 44 tooth pinion would have you at 4.92 FDR.

Last edited by .crispy; 03-05-2013 at 01:14 PM.
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:39 PM
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Crispy,

thanks for the help.

cheers,
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:10 PM
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Broke my drive shaft blades and they are out of stock on TQRacing.
Does anybody know if these will work

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...in-Cover-Set-8
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:42 PM
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I broke mine too.

Now Im using Xray T4 blades.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:39 AM
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Speaking of pinions; how does everyone tighten their pinions once the motor is installed? I can’t get my wrench completely lined up with the set screw?
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by nrtv20 View Post
Speaking of pinions; how does everyone tighten their pinions once the motor is installed? I canít get my wrench completely lined up with the set screw?
Hole in the bottom of the chassis should allow you to get the wrench in line.
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by nrtv20 View Post
Speaking of pinions; how does everyone tighten their pinions once the motor is installed? I canít get my wrench completely lined up with the set screw?
Depends on how big the pinion is for starters. Sometimes I unmount the motor, make sure the shaft is through the hole and angle it. I get the pinion on and lined up with the flat part of the shaft and tighten it so that it stays on.

Then I mount the motor and then go from the bottom to position the pinion so that it lines up with the spur.

The entire process is easier the smaller the pinion is.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
Depends on how big the pinion is for starters. Sometimes I unmount the motor, make sure the shaft is through the hole and angle it. I get the pinion on and lined up with the flat part of the shaft and tighten it so that it stays on.

Then I mount the motor and then go from the bottom to position the pinion so that it lines up with the spur.

The entire process is easier the smaller the pinion is.
For a large pinion, i found just taking the top deck off, putting pinion on and placing deck back, take a bit longer but is easier.
cheers,
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:05 PM
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Not sure how that's easier. At least 10 screws plus maybe the belt, versus 2.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:30 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys! I've tried all those ways too. Just wanted to get opinions.
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:28 AM
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thank you .crispy for all the good information and pictures, now that I know the max. size I have to figure the ratio to choose to start buying spurs & gears.

I'm almost finished with the car assembly, I started with default setup 1000cst in rear diff and choose 45-35 for front and rear shocks. diff may be a little soft and shock may be hard but will see once on track.

One more thing I noticed, the sway bars installed as per manual dont move at all, tried both with and w/o shocks installed. I mean they have a little play in the supports on towers so they can roll but yet still I can go full up & down arm travel and the opposite arm never moves a milimeter, whats going on?
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