performula

iTrader: (4)

My diff is leaking from the little tear in the gasket. Good thing I used a 30K blend or my carpent would be ruined. The cars rear was hanging over the table.

I'll probably try to Permatex it.

pata

Hi there

Got an R1 and will be running it in HW justock blinky 10.5T class on outdoor asphalt in a wet/cold area.

Any recommended setup? I'm still holding on buying oils for diff and shocks...

Looking to ratio 5 which spur/pinion combo should I go for?
which is the limit size 48P/64P spur that would fit the chassis?

A servo saver that can fit properly? probably to be used with a Savox 1251mg

still going through the thread slowly to catch up on said previously...

thank you.

Bappe

havent ran my car outdoors yet, but i think that the setup from the manual is a good starting point

talking oil, for the shocks buy 30,35,40,45wt (350-550cst)

for the diff: 1000,2000,3000 cst

its always good to have some springs to play with too.

i use tamiya and yokomo springs (havent tested spec r springs more than the std ones, so dont really know how the stand on the track)

.crispy

I'm running Silver AE springs in the rear with 30wt shock oil.

Spec-R White springs in the front (equiv. to AE blue) with 40wt shock oil.

Too much body roll with green/silver. May try the golds on the front and the blues on the rear.

Stock positions for all shocks and tie rods.

1000 wt. diff oil in rear gear diff. 500,000 wt. in front gear diff.

Handles like a champ. Rotates great on carpet.

Bappe

thats a very hard shock setup regarding the springs.

if running on a wet/cold asphalt track i would rather start with the stock setup, only change would be to run slightly softer oil in the rear, (using ae oils) 35 in the rear and 40 in the front as a start and go from there

also regarding a servosaver, i use a xray one, and havent had a servo problem since i put it on the car (the std arm moved in a fullspeed crash in a final)

tcdrvr2

iTrader: (88)

I put the tamiya touring car servo saver with the aluminum arm on mine, if that helps.

Bappe

i have used the tamiya servosaver on my cars for some years now, and the xray servosaver is more precise and reliable if you ask me
im using the newest one, same as used on the t4 car

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

The R1 gear diff is very strange, as the paper joint is quite thick, the chamfer for the other joint is useless!

I do have a strange feeling with the original gear diff, so I replace it with a Spec-R Xray gear diff!

I can't understand why, despite the fact that all other SpecR diff are so good, the gear diff coming with the R1 is so strange!!!

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

You could try a Kimbrough servo saver - they work well with a Savox servo.

I'm not racing my car as its being used as a parts donor for my sons while we wait for parts ! Has anyone had a problem with the spool outdrives slipping out during a race. It's happening all the time & I don't know how to fix it.

Chris85

Here is my S1. I made the following changes:

- Steel pivot balls from the R1
- Alu Hex driver from the R1
- Alu Damper housings from the R1
- 3Racing SSK in the front
- Xenon 78T 48dp spur gear

EDIT: Weight (ready to drive including Personal transponder and PF Mazda 6): 1450gr

Tomorrow, I will drive it the first time at my local track .

Regards,

Chris

Jeckler

iTrader: (6)

Do you have the screws attaching them to the spool installed?

performula

iTrader: (4)

This...

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

Does anyone know what springs would fit the shocks, X-ray, HPI...??

.crispy

Pretty much all touring car springs will fit. I've had Tamiya springs on it and I'm running mostly Associated springs now.

aackjw

iTrader: (9)

hey guys.
I want to hear some ur experience on building s1.
I'm building on right now and feels some binding on the area around the belts.
I see the front spool, rear gear diff and spur gear mesh work without binding seperately.
When I put them together, I'm just not sure how much tension I should aim for on belts cause it seems this contributes to this binding.