Spec-R R1
02-02-2013, 12:13 AM
#886
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
I think we're on the same page actually. With the 3mm spacers in the back, I couldn't get the toe block to sit flat. Sounds like the same thing you're getting. I swapped out the 3mm spacer for the 2mm, and used two 1mm spacers for each of the rear camber link ball studs instead.
I did the same thing up front, and have some shims if needed.
I did the same thing up front, and have some shims if needed.
02-02-2013, 10:35 AM
#888
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
I'm building the shocks right now and the supplied bottle of 500 (cst I presume) is only about a 3rd full. I doubt I have enough to fill all four. I have some 35wt, but I'm thinking that will be a little light (I used the 3-hole pistons). Should I get some 40wt to start just to be on the safe side? I don't want to have to take the shocks apart to change pistons. I'll be running outdoors on asphalt set up VTA.
I bought a set of droop plates to keep the screws from digging into the chassis, but am starting to wonder if they're really necessary and if they'll hurt more than help. With them installed and the screws backed out, the arms sit level. Should I bother? I haven't run TC in 20 years and the TA-02 I had didn't even have droop adjustability.
And, does anyone have a spare rear body post? One of mine was missing from the box/bag/tree.
I bought a set of droop plates to keep the screws from digging into the chassis, but am starting to wonder if they're really necessary and if they'll hurt more than help. With them installed and the screws backed out, the arms sit level. Should I bother? I haven't run TC in 20 years and the TA-02 I had didn't even have droop adjustability.
And, does anyone have a spare rear body post? One of mine was missing from the box/bag/tree.
02-02-2013, 01:13 PM
#889
I'm building the shocks right now and the supplied bottle of 500 (cst I presume) is only about a 3rd full. I doubt I have enough to fill all four. I have some 35wt, but I'm thinking that will be a little light (I used the 3-hole pistons). Should I get some 40wt to start just to be on the safe side? I don't want to have to take the shocks apart to change pistons. I'll be running outdoors on asphalt set up VTA.
I bought a set of droop plates to keep the screws from digging into the chassis, but am starting to wonder if they're really necessary and if they'll hurt more than help. With them installed and the screws backed out, the arms sit level. Should I bother? I haven't run TC in 20 years and the TA-02 I had didn't even have droop adjustability.
And, does anyone have a spare rear body post? One of mine was missing from the box/bag/tree.
I bought a set of droop plates to keep the screws from digging into the chassis, but am starting to wonder if they're really necessary and if they'll hurt more than help. With them installed and the screws backed out, the arms sit level. Should I bother? I haven't run TC in 20 years and the TA-02 I had didn't even have droop adjustability.
And, does anyone have a spare rear body post? One of mine was missing from the box/bag/tree.
02-02-2013, 03:34 PM
#890
I'm building the shocks right now and the supplied bottle of 500 (cst I presume) is only about a 3rd full. I doubt I have enough to fill all four. I have some 35wt, but I'm thinking that will be a little light (I used the 3-hole pistons). Should I get some 40wt to start just to be on the safe side? I don't want to have to take the shocks apart to change pistons. I'll be running outdoors on asphalt set up VTA.
I bought a set of droop plates to keep the screws from digging into the chassis, but am starting to wonder if they're really necessary and if they'll hurt more than help. With them installed and the screws backed out, the arms sit level. Should I bother? I haven't run TC in 20 years and the TA-02 I had didn't even have droop adjustability.
And, does anyone have a spare rear body post? One of mine was missing from the box/bag/tree.
I bought a set of droop plates to keep the screws from digging into the chassis, but am starting to wonder if they're really necessary and if they'll hurt more than help. With them installed and the screws backed out, the arms sit level. Should I bother? I haven't run TC in 20 years and the TA-02 I had didn't even have droop adjustability.
And, does anyone have a spare rear body post? One of mine was missing from the box/bag/tree.
35wt would be a good starting point as Jeff said although if you've got 3/4 of the stock shock oil it should be enough if you want to use it, I had quite a bit left but maybe my bottle had more in.
02-02-2013, 07:42 PM
#891
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
I sent them an email from the Contact Us link on their site. We'll see what happens.
And I don't have 3/4 of a bottle, I have 1/3 of a bottle. I'll try the 35wt, plus I got a bottle of 40wt today.
Another question....
Does anyone use the stiffeners (tubes) that come with the S1? There's one that goes between the steering rack and top deck and another between top and bottom. I'm guessing that's what they're for since the manual doesn't seem to make any mention of them and they fit in those places.
And a silver can Johnson motor will fit the mount if you take a Dremel to it and grind a little bit out of it, otherwise the front bushing is in the way.
And I don't have 3/4 of a bottle, I have 1/3 of a bottle. I'll try the 35wt, plus I got a bottle of 40wt today.
Another question....
Does anyone use the stiffeners (tubes) that come with the S1? There's one that goes between the steering rack and top deck and another between top and bottom. I'm guessing that's what they're for since the manual doesn't seem to make any mention of them and they fit in those places.
And a silver can Johnson motor will fit the mount if you take a Dremel to it and grind a little bit out of it, otherwise the front bushing is in the way.
02-02-2013, 07:51 PM
#892
I sent them an email from the Contact Us link on their site. We'll see what happens.
And I don't have 3/4 of a bottle, I have 1/3 of a bottle. I'll try the 35wt, plus I got a bottle of 40wt today.
Another question....
Does anyone use the stiffeners (tubes) that come with the S1? There's one that goes between the steering rack and top deck and another between top and bottom. I'm guessing that's what they're for since the manual doesn't seem to make any mention of them and they fit in those places.
And a silver can Johnson motor will fit the mount if you take a Dremel to it and grind a little bit out of it, otherwise the front bushing is in the way.
And I don't have 3/4 of a bottle, I have 1/3 of a bottle. I'll try the 35wt, plus I got a bottle of 40wt today.
Another question....
Does anyone use the stiffeners (tubes) that come with the S1? There's one that goes between the steering rack and top deck and another between top and bottom. I'm guessing that's what they're for since the manual doesn't seem to make any mention of them and they fit in those places.
And a silver can Johnson motor will fit the mount if you take a Dremel to it and grind a little bit out of it, otherwise the front bushing is in the way.
I don't use those stiffeners, not sure if anyone else does. That is what they're for though.
02-03-2013, 07:11 PM
#893
Hi Guys,
Just finished with my S1 build (my first touring car build). The suspension arms seem to be really binded when screwed to the chassis with the suspension mount adapters. I'll see after a few runs if the plastic loosen up a bit. If not, I'll file some of the spacers and ream the suspension arm holes.
Being a noobie in TC, I built my S1 based on the manual's instructions and noticed that the front and rear ride height are at 7 to 9? How do I lower the ride height and change droop? Do i do it by just lowering the set screw on the suspension or by adding spacers as well?
Thanks!
Just finished with my S1 build (my first touring car build). The suspension arms seem to be really binded when screwed to the chassis with the suspension mount adapters. I'll see after a few runs if the plastic loosen up a bit. If not, I'll file some of the spacers and ream the suspension arm holes.
Being a noobie in TC, I built my S1 based on the manual's instructions and noticed that the front and rear ride height are at 7 to 9? How do I lower the ride height and change droop? Do i do it by just lowering the set screw on the suspension or by adding spacers as well?
Thanks!
02-03-2013, 09:34 PM
#894
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post11758752new link to my new forsale thread
02-03-2013, 09:58 PM
#896
Hi Guys,
Just finished with my S1 build (my first touring car build). The suspension arms seem to be really binded when screwed to the chassis with the suspension mount adapters. I'll see after a few runs if the plastic loosen up a bit. If not, I'll file some of the spacers and ream the suspension arm holes.
Being a noobie in TC, I built my S1 based on the manual's instructions and noticed that the front and rear ride height are at 7 to 9? How do I lower the ride height and change droop? Do i do it by just lowering the set screw on the suspension or by adding spacers as well?
Thanks!
Just finished with my S1 build (my first touring car build). The suspension arms seem to be really binded when screwed to the chassis with the suspension mount adapters. I'll see after a few runs if the plastic loosen up a bit. If not, I'll file some of the spacers and ream the suspension arm holes.
Being a noobie in TC, I built my S1 based on the manual's instructions and noticed that the front and rear ride height are at 7 to 9? How do I lower the ride height and change droop? Do i do it by just lowering the set screw on the suspension or by adding spacers as well?
Thanks!
02-04-2013, 07:06 PM
#899
Look up droop and ride height or Set up on U-Tube! It might help you out more visually. Droop is the set screw on arm. Ride height is adjusting shocks. You will need some set up tools if you dont have them yet! I use 5mm droop in front 4mm droop in rear and 5mm ride height all around! Hope that helps