Spec-R R1

Old 01-24-2013, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by PitNamedGordie View Post
R1 or S1?
R1 oops

Originally Posted by PitNamedGordie View Post
What weight of oil are you using in the diff? How much oil did you put in the diff when you assembled it?
1000W from the box - filled as per the pic in the manual.

Originally Posted by PitNamedGordie View Post
Take some pics of the steering rack also...
I'll see what I can do - maybe a video is better...
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:32 AM
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my steering rack had loads of slop when i first built it as well but guys this is what you encounter with building kits. thats why you shim parts to get rid of slop. its all a matter of taking the time and the effort. i will look at mine later tonight and maybe take some pics to show what i have done. mine is very nice and smooth after i shimmed it up. but i did this when i was building it from the start and have yet to have any issues thus far.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:34 AM
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also use 5000wt it is tested and so far the best oil in my opinion. but if not 5000wt at least 3000wt. remember you need to tighten the diff enough to squish the o-ring inbetween the two halfs otherwise it will leak also green slime the xring o-rings inside the diff. do it very generously and it will be leak free.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
my steering rack had loads of slop when i first built it as well but guys this is what you encounter with building kits. thats why you shim parts to get rid of slop. its all a matter of taking the time and the effort. i will look at mine later tonight and maybe take some pics to show what i have done. mine is very nice and smooth after i shimmed it up. but i did this when i was building it from the start and have yet to have any issues thus far.
What size shims would you recommend? - I tried some 5x10 (what I had) but I think they are too big as when I tighten down the carbon brace it stops the rack from moving.

I think I also need to look at the small shims or bearings between the steering crank arms and the alu brace part (that holds the ball studs) as there is a fair bit of play there too.

Thanks for the advice.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
also use 5000wt it is tested and so far the best oil in my opinion. but if not 5000wt at least 3000wt. remember you need to tighten the diff enough to squish the o-ring inbetween the two halfs otherwise it will leak also green slime the xring o-rings inside the diff. do it very generously and it will be leak free.
I run on a low traction outdoor (brushed concrete) track - would 5k be ok?
I'll give it a go anyway and see if it stops leaking anyway.

Thanks for the ideas.

Gary
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:06 PM
  #831  
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Originally Posted by gazmanster View Post
I run on a low traction outdoor (brushed concrete) track - would 5k be ok?
I'll give it a go anyway and see if it stops leaking anyway.

Thanks for the ideas.

Gary
should work just fine , i will check later tonight and see what shims i am using but yes i had to shim every peice of the steering rack.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
my steering rack had loads of slop when i first built it as well but guys this is what you encounter with building kits. thats why you shim parts to get rid of slop. its all a matter of taking the time and the effort. i will look at mine later tonight and maybe take some pics to show what i have done. mine is very nice and smooth after i shimmed it up. but i did this when i was building it from the start and have yet to have any issues thus far.


I shimmed mine up too...but two or three mm seemed drastic.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:23 PM
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I had the same problem with the gear diff. When I put them together you could see light between the 2 halves. I sanded the side that fits inside the other and kept dry fitting with the oring and the gasket. Once i got it to the correct depth, no more light between the halves, I built it, inserted the screws. Initially the screws were too tight and bound the diff up. Backed the screws off 1/4 to relieve the pressure and it works like butter with no leakage. I also purchased a spec r Gear diff separately for the front and did not have the same problem. It went together perfectly. I think the mold for the parts in the R1 are off in size and make the 1 diff half too large.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:24 PM
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Contact Spec-R. I had bad velcro and they are working with local hobby shop for a replacement.
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
I had the same problem with the gear diff. When I put them together you could see light between the 2 halves. I sanded the side that fits inside the other and kept dry fitting with the oring and the gasket. Once i got it to the correct depth, no more light between the halves, I built it, inserted the screws. Initially the screws were too tight and bound the diff up. Backed the screws off 1/4 to relieve the pressure and it works like butter with no leakage. I also purchased a spec r Gear diff separately for the front and did not have the same problem. It went together perfectly. I think the mold for the parts in the R1 are off in size and make the 1 diff half too large.
Good idea - I'll pull the diff down tonight and see what I find, thanks for the idea.
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by toast. View Post
Contact Spec-R. I had bad velcro and they are working with local hobby shop for a replacement.
Yep did that already - I got a replacement for all the missing parts in the kit and the dodgy velco strap without any problems

On that note, I can't recommend TQ RC Racing highly enough - service has been outstanding even when I live on the other side of the planet from the shop (Australia)
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:21 PM
  #837  
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I got the layshaft bushings from spec r(white). After putting them in its actually binding... And there is still space for the standard plastic shims on the outside of the layshaft shaft (between layshaft shaft head and plastic bush). Strange. Anyone find this?

Its as if the shaft itself is too long.
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SpecRC View Post
I got the layshaft bushings from spec r(white). After putting them in its actually binding... And there is still space for the standard plastic shims on the outside of the layshaft shaft (between layshaft shaft head and plastic bush). Strange. Anyone find this?

Its as if the shaft itself is too long.
Yes...

The long bushings are only good for spur gears with an inner thickness of 2mm. If you use a thicker spur gear like Kimbrough you cannot use the long bushing with out shaving it down. The spacers cannot be used on the outside of of the bushings because they are not big enough.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by PitNamedGordie View Post
Yes...

The long bushings are only good for spur gears with an inner thickness of 2mm. If you use a thicker spur gear like Kimbrough you cannot use the long bushing with out shaving it down. The spacers cannot be used on the outside of of the bushings because they are not big enough.
Im using the kit spur gear which is why I thought they would be fine but its very tight.

I also tried the flanged bearings and that doesn't bind so much yet it has the same gap for the plastic shims. This gap is between( fitment between layshaft head and plastic bush) not inside where the spur gear is. You couldn't put them inside by the bearings as this would be to tight and the bulkhead would be flexing outwards i feel.

I can take photo's if you would like?
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:59 PM
  #840  
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Originally Posted by dag32 View Post
You didn't do anything wrong with the battery strap, they were just assembled incorrectly. I have a R1 and a S1 kit and both straps were assembled incorrectly, had to buy new straps or use tape.
I had the same problem, all i did was cut the strap and turned it the right way and put some thin ca on the two pieces and pressed down for about a minute with a piece of wood. I have had it that way ever since i built the car and it has not failed yet.
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