big al

iTrader: (10)

try disconnecting the sway bar. Something is interfering with your movement

nrtv20

iTrader: (8)

Make sure the arms are on right, I believe everything looks symmetrical but its possible to have them on backwards

svines1972

iTrader: (26)

I have disconnected the sway bars completely front & rear. The lowest ride height measurement I get is 5.5mm. And that is on the edge of 6.0mm. The car will not settle down. Does the droop adjustment effect the ride height?

Damon_English

iTrader: (9)

Droop should not have an effect on overall ride height as long as they are not screwed all the way in, compressing the shocks. That is really weird that it will not go down far enough. However the arm looks like it is way low. And you should not adjust roll center to try to get ride height. I suggest pulling everything apart, going through it, and making sure everything is working together properly.

big al

iTrader: (10)

Is there something under your rear arm mounts? It looks like something silver colored?? I have the s1, so I'm not 100% sure about the build of the R1.

svines1972

iTrader: (26)

I removed the metal shims under the mounts and that did have an effect. I did however find the mistake in the assembly of the shocks (I am an idiot). All is good now, I can go down to 4.5 if need be. Thanks for the input.

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (82)

I know what you did. A guy at my track last night came to me with the same problem and he installed the oring on top of the spring instead of putting it inside the preload collar. Haha I'm assuming you did the same. Btw for people that have the s1 you should upgrade to the shock bodies from the r1 cuz the plastic ones suck. The same guy I was helping had them and one of his shock caps won't tighten because it strips out the shock body.

Fuzzi0n

Didn't have any issues tightening my shock collars, although they are only hand tight, never go any further than that. I'd have thought it would be worth just buying some TRF shocks rather than buying the R1 shock bodies though.

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (82)

R1 bodies are a lot cheaper and the same thing just different plating process.

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Hi, I lost a dogbone blade from my S1. Can I use xray T3/T4 blades? The stock ones split after removing and installing again to the dogbone pins.

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (82)

Yes you can use the xray blades.

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

Hey I noticed you run sweeps in most of your set ups and was curious what have you done set up wise to put "side bite" into the car. personally ive gone to longer camber links front and rear.

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (82)

I shortens my wheelbase by moving my front arms all the way back. It shortend my wheelbase while shifting the weight forward. Also i am now running the shortest links possible with 4mm under front and rear inner ball studs. The camber gain I get from this gives mire side bite as well.

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

Jeff, do you know if the tc6.1wc ones will work too? tqrcaing is out, I have a bunch for my tc6.1wc that I built recently. Looking at the pictures they look like they might fit...

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (82)

doesnt hurt to try but i think they will need sanding as they are 4mm and i think xray is 3.5mm. doesnt take much use 400 grit paper and take an even amount off each side to keep the driveshaft as true as possible in the outdrive. you can use top photon blades if you want im sure amainhobbies.com has them.