Spec-R R1

Old 01-15-2013, 07:29 PM
  #781  
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Originally Posted by Johnnytc3 View Post
How durable is this car?

I am about to place and order for a couple S1s to mess around with and from what I am reading, should get the following right away:

1)Tamiya ball cups
2)Aluminum hexes
3)Roll bars
3)Diff gear gasket version 2??
4)5x8x?? Flanged bearing for the lay shaft

What spare parts should I get? It seems like the only thing that are breaking are shock caps from what I read?
The diff comes with the right gasket, don't worry about that. The rest on that list are all worth it. Layshaft bearings are 5x8x2.5mm.

Not much breaks, just the usual stuff on a touring car. The suspension parts seem to be pretty robust, although they will break if you hit something hard enough. It's certainly no less durable than the other cars out there.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:35 PM
  #782  
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Hi there guys!
I've got the S1 kit, we desided to use it for beginners 17,5 blinky class locally. I had much pleasure building it and trying it. I don't have too much experience in onroad, but I really love this car now. I never tried such a durable car! It's fantastic! At least I raced it in 13,5 blinky and that was fantastic! I tried shown set ups, but it's not perfect yet.
Now rebuilding it I'm impressed again with its durability.
Also I have a question. I've seen kit spring rates (2,9-2,7)here and also someone wrote that softer springs fill better. My car is rather nurvious and rather hard to drive. I installed eBay-bArs 1,4-1,2 and that made it better, but still not good. The grip is rather low.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:38 PM
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Oh! The only 2 things must have - bamper plastic and outer pins! Metal breaks faster than plastic
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:20 AM
  #784  
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Originally Posted by Pe4atnik View Post
Hi there guys!
I've got the S1 kit, we desided to use it for beginners 17,5 blinky class locally. I had much pleasure building it and trying it. I don't have too much experience in onroad, but I really love this car now. I never tried such a durable car! It's fantastic! At least I raced it in 13,5 blinky and that was fantastic! I tried shown set ups, but it's not perfect yet.
Now rebuilding it I'm impressed again with its durability.
Also I have a question. I've seen kit spring rates (2,9-2,7)here and also someone wrote that softer springs fill better. My car is rather nurvious and rather hard to drive. I installed eBay-bArs 1,4-1,2 and that made it better, but still not good. The grip is rather low.
If its nervous, try some thicker diff oil, 3000-5000 is a good area to start. I'm running Tamiya white and blue springs, front and rear. Yokomo pink and blue are a good choice too.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Fuzzi0n View Post
If its nervous, try some thicker diff oil, 3000-5000 is a good area to start. I'm running Tamiya white and blue springs, front and rear. Yokomo pink and blue are a good choice too.
Yeah! Thanks! I already tried 3000 and 5000 in diff and 5000 is better, but sometimes the rear of the car slips to the outside of the corner. I know that it is too much throttle, but that's too much control. I thought that rear swaybar will solve that - but not at all. I'm thinking about sanding the gears and tightening it.

The springs you mentioned - they are softer than kit ones?

I'd like to mention one strange thing for me - ball bearings! They don't have locks, so it's rather hard to open them, but it's rather easy to take carpet frame them without opening)))
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Pe4atnik View Post
Yeah! Thanks! I already tried 3000 and 5000 in diff and 5000 is better, but sometimes the rear of the car slips to the outside of the corner. I know that it is too much throttle, but that's too much control. I thought that rear swaybar will solve that - but not at all. I'm thinking about sanding the gears and tightening it.

The springs you mentioned - they are softer than kit ones?

I'd like to mention one strange thing for me - ball bearings! They don't have locks, so it's rather hard to open them, but it's rather easy to take carpet frame them without opening)))
The springs are softer, the stock ones are quite hard. Perhaps also try running the thickest front roll bar and the thinnest rear one, might help out. Also leaning the rear shocks in more can calm it down a bit.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:36 PM
  #787  
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3racing ecs driveshafts for spec r/xray, really good price!

http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-t301-d...t-p-36126.html
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:07 PM
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Default diff shims

I've read about some people having to shim the diff and some not, why would that be ? shouldn't the mouldings be consistent and all be the same ? If I need to shim the diffs on the 2 cars I've bought, does the kit come with enough shims or do I need to buy some ?
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Pe4atnik View Post
Oh! The only 2 things must have - bamper plastic and outer pins! Metal breaks faster than plastic
Are you referring to the top bumper plate or the bottom bumper mount?
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnnytc3 View Post
Are you referring to the top bumper plate or the bottom bumper mount?
The only parts I've broken on my S1 are the front lower bumper plate and the front body posts. The car has been solid for me other than those parts.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:59 PM
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Hello

On drive shafts, I have been using spec r double jointed ones, very good and strong.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnnytc3 View Post
Are you referring to the top bumper plate or the bottom bumper mount?
I mean bottom bumper mount! I also broke one body post after a hard crash!
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:44 AM
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About shims: some people put too much shims, so there is no play at all, that makes the transmission work harder, not very smooth. Best of all I liked flanged ball bearings with stock inserts. You also can put some shims to spool and diff bearings, but leave some play.
On s1 you shouldn't screw out the spur screws (on spur tower), you can strip the spur when you hit someone hard)))
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:03 PM
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You would need to purchase some more, i brought some from spec R. The kit comes with only one per side. Your diff might be fine and the internal gears are inexpensive if they do have trouble.

Originally Posted by 32819toon View Post
I've read about some people having to shim the diff and some not, why would that be ? shouldn't the mouldings be consistent and all be the same ? If I need to shim the diffs on the 2 cars I've bought, does the kit come with enough shims or do I need to buy some ?
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Old 01-19-2013, 01:53 PM
  #795  
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Default Spec R1 Ride Height

I bult the car box stock. I assumed with shock adjustment I could get 5mm ride height. This does not appear to be the case. I have turned the shock adjuster all the way out and the lowest I can get the ride height is 6mm. Should I put spacers under the arm mounts? What millimeter would recommended so I will have some adjustability by turning the shock ring?
Attached Thumbnails Spec-R R1-p1010006.jpg   Spec-R R1-p1010007.jpg   Spec-R R1-p1010008.jpg   Spec-R R1-p1010009.jpg  

Last edited by svines1972; 01-19-2013 at 04:24 PM.
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