Spec-R R1

Old 11-21-2012, 06:54 AM
  #391  
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Thanks for the reply, I think its in my layshaft, I'll give her the once/twice over when I get back to the build.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:04 AM
  #392  
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When I built my R1 I had a terrible bind, I had neglected to put the 1mm shims between the top deck and the layshaft mount. If the S1 is the same check that.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by tcdrvr2 View Post
When I built my R1 I had a terrible bind, I had neglected to put the 1mm shims between the top deck and the layshaft mount. If the S1 is the same check that.
The S1 does not make use of those spacers in the manual but it may have space for them. I don't honestly recall. It may cause a chassis tweak of some sort so loosen the screws on the top of the lay shaft mount and see if the deck lifts away from the mount at all. If it stays more or less flat then the spacers may not work with this kit.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:17 AM
  #394  
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Originally Posted by tcdrvr2 View Post
When I built my R1 I had a terrible bind, I had neglected to put the 1mm shims between the top deck and the layshaft mount. If the S1 is the same check that.
Just looks both manual......you will see
Attached Thumbnails Spec-R R1-s1-vs-r1.jpg  
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:56 AM
  #395  
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Originally Posted by mos-leung View Post
Just looks both manual......you will see
Beat me to it, the spacers are part of the layshaft mount on the S1.

Originally Posted by nrtv20 View Post
I'm currently midway through assembly of an S1; I've never built a belt drive TC before, How much resistance is there with the front spool and rear diff installed? If I spin the spur it does not 'free wheel' at all and feels rather tight? do I have a bind somewhere already?!?
Does the spur run smooth on its own? Do the diffs run smooth on their own?

With the stock spur I found that running flanged bearings and no spacers worked really well, I did clean up the plastic parts and threw some grease on them and the layshaft just to make it easier to assemble. If it's really tight to put together it might bend the mounts inwards - you'll notice that it's not quite lined up with the top deck holes if its doing that.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:39 AM
  #396  
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I have not yet put on the top deck, I'll check front/rear diffs and spur individually. It’s not binding as much as the feeling of drag.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by nrtv20 View Post
I have not yet put on the top deck, I'll check front/rear diffs and spur individually. Its not binding as much as the feeling of drag.
FYI, the S1 will have more drag in it than the R1 due to the plastics. they break in after 2-3 heats and it smooths out nicely. Also the bearings on my s1 kit had a good bit of assembly grease packed in them. I used Motor spray on them then some nano bearing lube to free them up. Let us know what you find for sure!
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:33 PM
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I found the source of my problem, the plastic spacers on the rear diff had a small burr and they were just ever so slightly pushing the bearings out making the whole assembly wider then it should have been. I just used a file and problem is solved. I really like the plastics so far, as previously stated they give a good feel when inserting screws and have good holding power to feel when they are bottomed out.
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Old 11-21-2012, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by nrtv20 View Post
I found the source of my problem, the plastic spacers on the rear diff had a small burr and they were just ever so slightly pushing the bearings out making the whole assembly wider then it should have been. I just used a file and problem is solved. I really like the plastics so far, as previously stated they give a good feel when inserting screws and have good holding power to feel when they are bottomed out.
They still feel good even if you take the screws out a few times - some plastics just feel terrible after that.

Good that you got it sorted, rest of the car should go together fine.
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:11 PM
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Anyone run into a bearing size issue when place them into the gear diff? I have one bearing out of the four that measures 3.88mm for a inner diameter while the others are 3.96mm, it will not go over the outdrive..
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:51 PM
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We raced a night early this week, The turnout wasn't huge but it was all TC. I was running 17.5 blinky and took TQ in the first heat, then had some traction issues in the second heat and ended up second. The temperature was a huge factor and I wasn't prepared for the drastic change. It went from 83 to 52 in the span of three hours so the track went from super sticky to like racing on grease. Literally scraping the gunk off our tires by the end of the night. Muchmore 32's were great early on but nothing was very good later in the night.

In the main I was first by about a lap and a half and 3 minutes in a slower driver cut across the track in front of me due to the conditions and I plowed him hard at full throttle, for the second time tonight, and then I lost all steering. Inspecting the car I found Zero damage to the car itself but found my servo was stuck :-( I couldn't change gears fast enough to get back in 3 min so my night was over. (Yes, I keep spare servo gear sets, cases, etc lol) I didn't have a saver so I was running a standard aluminum arm from Racers edge, my mistake, the car was actually way too good for my driving and once again survived my punishment. I'm off to order a servo saver now .. lesson learned.


Originally Posted by Darrin70 View Post
Anyone run into a bearing size issue when place them into the gear diff? I have one bearing out of the four that measures 3.88mm for a inner diameter while the others are 3.96mm, it will not go over the outdrive..
Out of the three kits I've built not one had this issue. I'm sure they would send you a replacement for it though, just email thier support and check your LHS for one to use in the mean time. I hate when you get some manufacturing glitch like that

Oh, take a picture of the caliper measuring it to send to them as well, just in case.
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:18 PM
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I've started the build on my S1 sedan and started by sanding and sealing the top deck and chassis plate first. The parts are easier to thread than my Sakura was which is a relief. There seems to be a lot of flashing on parts that needs to be removed prior to assembly and that's slowing me down a bit. There were a few incorrect items in the manual, the 3mm spacers in the front & rear suspension arms being just one which needed to be swaped out for 2mm ones instead. The drive train seems a bit stiff even with the belts set loose. There are no droop settings and the single hing pin blocks are not symetrical and not labelled making it very hard to figure which goes where.

Still more work to be done and I should have it completed tomorrow.

Last edited by SteveM; 11-23-2012 at 04:44 AM.
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:43 PM
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somebody please post a video of this car in action
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by starrx View Post
somebody please post a video of this car in action
Look one page back.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by starrx View Post
somebody please post a video of this car in action
Also..

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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