Spec-R R1

Old 07-03-2016, 12:21 PM
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the manual specifies the size of the bearings you need as you assemble. avid also carries bulk bearings in tubes which will prob be the cheapest way to get a large sum of disposable bearings.

really not much effort to consider. dif carrier bearings, axle bearings and layshaft. 3 sizes. 4 if you have DJC shafts in the front.
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Old 08-06-2016, 05:11 PM
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Hi all,

I've been racing my Spec-R R1 in a fairly non-competitive way for about a year. I feel as though my driving is at a point now where I can start to be competitive, but in order to do that I need to reduce the weight. Or at least I think I do.

At the moment it's 100g above the minimum. What's the best way to loose this weight?

I currently use a fair amount of body reinforcement to make the bodies last and I have heaps of stickers on my car. Would this be where to save weight?

I've already removed excess wires.
Is anyone else still racing a spec-r?
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
At the moment it's 100g above the minimum. What's the best way to loose this weight?

I currently use a fair amount of body reinforcement to make the bodies last and I have heaps of stickers on my car. Would this be where to save weight?

I've already removed excess wires.
Is anyone else still racing a spec-r?

In order to lose THAT much weight, I'd start with a smaller capacity battery pack, preferably with in-line bullets and eliminate connectors to save additional weight. I'd also get a lightweight body with only 1 very light coat of paint. Titanium parts would be my last effort to cut more weight if necessary, but that will also be the most expensive route.

I'm still racing mine but parts are so hard to find I'm wondering if the brand is no longer in business???
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
In order to lose THAT much weight, I'd start with a smaller capacity battery pack, preferably with in-line bullets and eliminate connectors to save additional weight. I'd also get a lightweight body with only 1 very light coat of paint. Titanium parts would be my last effort to cut more weight if necessary, but that will also be the most expensive route.

I'm still racing mine but parts are so hard to find I'm wondering if the brand is no longer in business???
Thanks for the reply.

I've still got lots of parts to keep me going. I've already eliminated all connectors. Body will be next.

What is the weight of your car?

Mine is 1450 with battery and body. I'd like to get as close to 1350 as possible.

Ryan
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:24 AM
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I'm running a shorty which is actually a pinch too light so I've added some lead weight in front of the pack to get my car to the min weight limit of 1380g for my local club.

Some brands of electronics weigh less than others, I'm also running an MRT transponder which is a few grams less than MYLaps. I also run titanium screws on all the upper parts of the chassis to help lower the center of gravity.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
In order to lose THAT much weight, I'd start with a smaller capacity battery pack, preferably with in-line bullets and eliminate connectors to save additional weight. I'd also get a lightweight body with only 1 very light coat of paint. Titanium parts would be my last effort to cut more weight if necessary, but that will also be the most expensive route.

I'm still racing mine but parts are so hard to find I'm wondering if the brand is no longer in business???
specr is in business dont worry.iam a driver for specr you can get everything in the shop.you wil have a other websitw to shop your parts.thats egr racing.hope i help you best regards ruud
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruudned View Post
specr is in business dont worry.iam a driver for specr you can get everything in the shop.you wil have a other websitw to shop your parts.thats egr racing.hope i help you best regards ruud
not sure you understand the meaning of "everything", but when I can't get the most important parts I need, then that makes it seem like "nothing" is in stock... of all the cars I've owned, my biggest disappointment has been getting a SpecR purely because of poor parts support. The car performs very well, but it's hard to recommend something that can't stock these critical parts that break on occasion:

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/index....oducts_id=5113

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/index....oducts_id=5770

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/index....oducts_id=5091

These parts have been out of stock for nearly a year, that is unacceptable

In the mean time I've been running a mix of Tamiya/Associated parts thanks to someone who showed a compatible mix, but come on SpecR, you can't expect your customers to remain loyal if you expect them to rely on other manufactures for spares, doh!
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:10 PM
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Tamiya/Associated parts thanks to someone who showed a compatible mix.

You willing to share with us? :-)
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Old 08-08-2016, 04:23 PM
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A few pages back Chris Morrison saved my bacon:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/14466562-post3866.html

Associated plastic hinge pin inserts for the TC3 are compatible with the SpecR... those parts have also been out of stock from EGR for what seems like an eternity
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:04 PM
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ASC31679 Tc7 steering block
ASC31680 Tc7 king ping bushing
ASC31678. Tc7 caster blocks

This is my new setup for spec r
Drill out the caster blocks with a 3 mm drill bit and ream out slightly
Use a 1mm spacer to take out play between arm and caster block
Have ran this in mod works great

Chris
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Old 08-09-2016, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
not sure you understand the meaning of "everything", but when I can't get the most important parts I need, then that makes it seem like "nothing" is in stock... of all the cars I've owned, my biggest disappointment has been getting a SpecR purely because of poor parts support. The car performs very well, but it's hard to recommend something that can't stock these critical parts that break on occasion:

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/index....oducts_id=5113

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/index....oducts_id=5770

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/index....oducts_id=5091

These parts have been out of stock for nearly a year, that is unacceptable

In the mean time I've been running a mix of Tamiya/Associated parts thanks to someone who showed a compatible mix, but come on SpecR, you can't expect your customers to remain loyal if you expect them to rely on other manufactures for spares, doh!
you can email the guys from specr,they are making new parts so you can ask for it.
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Old 08-09-2016, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruudned View Post
you can email the guys from specr,they are making new parts so you can ask for it.
Are they making more kits?
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Are they making more kits?
i think a new touring car is coming next year...so i run the r2 on this moment
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:00 AM
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If this is for R1....car has been discontinued for several years. So parts should not be there for long....

For all the steering parts, I am actually using Xray T4 parts with very little mod and spacers and they fit pretty good.
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Old 08-09-2016, 04:56 PM
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a 1mm spacer In front or rear?



Originally Posted by Chris_morrison View Post
ASC31679 Tc7 steering block
ASC31680 Tc7 king ping bushing
ASC31678. Tc7 caster blocks

This is my new setup for spec r
Drill out the caster blocks with a 3 mm drill bit and ream out slightly
Use a 1mm spacer to take out play between arm and caster block
Have ran this in mod works great

Chris
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