Spec-R R1
#3766
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Had my r2 out this past weekend at the RRR challenge in vancouver. Ran it with stock lower plate and pivot ball upper plate. Team powers 34 tires, hobbywing v3.1, orca tx 4.5, LTCR.
Straight was 180ft and i had some issues with my airtronics and range. apparently this was a fairly common issue with the first gen m12s so sending it in for service.
I managed a 4th place qualifying pos and the car ran pretty well on ashphalt though dispite not being able to really push for fear of a runaway lol.
had lots of traction. if i hadn't spent so much time blowing up my nitro car, i might have worked a little more corner entry into it but my laps were pretty good considering who was in attendance.
so floating top plate not so good indoors, but pretty awesomne outdoors without the need to change topplates depending on traction. with this it seems you can just change the number of screws and get the effect of going to thinner top plates. well. within reason i suppose.
Straight was 180ft and i had some issues with my airtronics and range. apparently this was a fairly common issue with the first gen m12s so sending it in for service.
I managed a 4th place qualifying pos and the car ran pretty well on ashphalt though dispite not being able to really push for fear of a runaway lol.
had lots of traction. if i hadn't spent so much time blowing up my nitro car, i might have worked a little more corner entry into it but my laps were pretty good considering who was in attendance.
so floating top plate not so good indoors, but pretty awesomne outdoors without the need to change topplates depending on traction. with this it seems you can just change the number of screws and get the effect of going to thinner top plates. well. within reason i suppose.
#3767
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=7225
Try this. However braking point will be changed to somewhere in the front. Just do not crash...
Try this. However braking point will be changed to somewhere in the front. Just do not crash...
Looking at >> Xray 305137 drive shaft adapter << comes with drive shaft plastic caps, like is used on the rear axles.
#3768
Tech Regular
Has anyone ever bent/twisted the R1 motor mount? Were you able to successfully straighten it?
#3769
I been looking for the R2 kit or even all the parts to convert my R1 into the R2 but the lower bulkheads are not instock as well as the kit itself. Spec r has not answered my email. One store emailed me back saying the R2 will be discontinued, another store just states they been sold out for a while and have no idea when they may be available again. Anyone know whats up with Spec R ? Im a little discouraged about there lack of availability.
#3770
Tech Regular
I keep ripping the bottom screw out of the plastic steering blocks rendering them useless.
Is it worth upgrading to carbon or aluminium?
Is it worth upgrading to carbon or aluminium?
#3773
Tech Initiate
Hello I am à specr rider in the netherlands can anybody say when the r2 kits are back in stock on the webshop from specr ?
#3774
#3775
Tech Regular
#3777
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
I don't think breaking a rear is very common at all.. but buy two sets of steering blocks and try ars if you have an r2 =]
Old chubs for carpet and clicktrack, new hard ones for ashphalt.
Hard arms are good all around but far easier to break than old soft ones. Esp with aluminum blocks.
I might have to substitute hingepins as I'm killing an aweful lot of them indoors.
Old chubs for carpet and clicktrack, new hard ones for ashphalt.
Hard arms are good all around but far easier to break than old soft ones. Esp with aluminum blocks.
I might have to substitute hingepins as I'm killing an aweful lot of them indoors.
#3779
Tech Initiate
#3780
I was told everything is interchangeable except the chassis, topdeck, bulkheads and motor mount, added the parts up and its still cheaper than the price of a R2 kit. And I only race in 1 class so I dont see the need for 2 cars.