Spec-R R1

Old 06-22-2015, 05:22 PM
  #3721  
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get an r2 to stay current. id say the biggest difference in the performance between the two was in materials. the r2 feels much more consistant and seems to have a lot of traction. the r1 was quite flexible, but not as consistant. suspension is the same, plastics are a little different. if you crash, id avoid the new hard plastics in your steering blocks and chubs. they make aluminum steering blocks now though.

everything that moves on the car is identical, but they added DJCS in the r2 export version tq/reflex is selling. definitely worthwhile. the aluminum rear axles.. meh..

the motor is moved inward to the degree that you have to install pinions backward, like the t4.
If i hadnt lost all my red aluminum bulkheads id do a side by side comparison... all i have is s2 bulkheads..
the r2 really is its one thing though. it similar to tamiya changing their modeling scheme if they change bulkhead design.. I wouldnt recommend an r1 unless you plan to simply run it as it is. if you want upgrades, you wont be able to use r2 chassis or top plates which is a pretty big deal.

they should have called the s2 an s1/14 or somthing.. its always going to be confusing with the current modeling and ill have to repeat myself many times...
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Old 06-23-2015, 03:24 PM
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My buddy wants to get into VTA racing, he's new to r/c and will be hitting the rails and doing flips for a while. Price range is sub 200 for a chassis, which of these should he get?

Spec R S1
Spec R S2
Sakura XI Sport
TC4
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Old 06-23-2015, 06:41 PM
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s2 with hard xray bumper and aluminum steering blocks. will stand up to rail abuse just fine. as well as anything really. even with those upgrades i think you would be under $150.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:41 PM
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Ended up getting the R1 artr used locally. So I'll give that a go at my local track soon. Thanks for the advice. I really wanted to build my own kit but couldnt pass up a sweet deal.
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Old 06-24-2015, 01:04 PM
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Used r1 is a great buy.

You will get lots of practice taking it apart/rebuilding it during maintenance. No need to worry.
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Old 06-24-2015, 01:31 PM
  #3726  
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Got a question for all the racers. Does everyone balance their car and add lead weights to it or is this something I can get away without doing? I never see any nitro class doing this? How bout wheel balancing?
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Old 06-25-2015, 12:39 AM
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Hi all,

I'm a bit of a novice. I've got a car that's made out of bits and pieces from s1's, s2s and r1's. I've started playing around with different springs and I'm now very confused.

I have a set of aluminium R1 shocks and the 'm' springs that come with them. I also have a set of 6 'soft' spec-r springs that range from 2.5 (soft) to 2.9 (hard).

The first thing I notice is that the 'm' springs are much longer. Is it ok to use a shorter spring? Do I need to build the shocks differently to suit?

My next question is about how to apply the springs. The biggest thing I'm trying to achieve is for the car to have more on power stability exiting corners. Should I have a softer spring up front or in the rear?
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:52 AM
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Typically you will want softer springs in the rear stiffer in feont due to the shock angles available. I don't run more than a .2-3 nm split but really depends what you want. To lock the rear you could go down to as low as a 2.3nm and run parallal arms. But ita gonna push and feel kinda slugish.
Any standard springs should be fine. Short or long. Just be careful about "bigbore" springs as they might not fit the retainers. Of course you could use alternate retainers. Most tcs are pretty ontercompatible this way.
I use std length yokomo springs, blake uses short xray springs.

I'd say 2.5/2.6 is a good placeto start on both ends. Tweak suspension to react the way you like then you can play with spring rate to adjust the ends to do what you want.

Typically higher traction allows higher spring ratea and better response but stiffer springs will need stiffer dampers too. Nice to have s2 shocks around for quick tests of the difference.
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Old 06-27-2015, 01:39 AM
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Thanks for the reply vaulk. I will play with it tomorrow
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Old 07-05-2015, 05:37 PM
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well, against several peoples suggestion, I ran my rsd aluminum chassis in modified on ashphalt lol.

I didnt have a huge amount of time to prepare the car but i tested it out on carpet the night before the big race and it was great.. very great..
qualifying on ashphalt was kinda sketchy though as i had the car setup way aggressive. rolling traction was a little lacking but the car was very sharp to turn in and was consistant through the corner. once the car was at speed it was very crisp and was a pleasure.
all three qualifiers had something ELSE fall off the car though.. first two i think i eroded a steering link with tire rub. i changed to the 6mm hexes to fix that. went through 3 tamiya low friction cups. then the upper ball on the steering block came out during the last minute of the race. though the car was really good for that heat.. just bad luck.
during the mains id have to bump up to the a. drove a smooth b main and managed a 4th place finish in the a final on the same lap as keith and blake. i know they were racing pretty nose to tail the whole time but it felt pretty good to not only do the best run of the day in the main, but not to get lapped ha.

the next day we ran two back to back endurance races 3 hours each. electric in the morning, nitro in the afternoon. car started a little dicy as i had a bad sensor wire and we literally drove the tires off it twice where other teams didnt do tire changes lol. we ran two sets of used reedy race tires and belted every single one.. we really drove the snot out of the car to make up the deficite of changing a sensor wire. so not surprising the tires let go.
car was very sharp in 17.5 tc on ashphalt with the mod setup and rsd chassis.

i ended up using blakes S2 for touring stock with my orca motor as his died the day before. i didnt make any setup changes to his car and managed to qualify4th or 5th.. finishing 3rd. vancouver crew secured the top two spots, but not by a large margin.
so next time, im comin for you guys!
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:00 PM
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Another rookie question.

Why does my car turn more in one direction? It has a smaller turning circle one way. How can I fix this?

Cheers Ryan
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Old 07-08-2015, 12:02 AM
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Put the car on a setup station and set camber, toe, steering centerpoint, endpoints. If it still does check for steering binding and tweak.
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Old 07-08-2015, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
Put the car on a setup station and set camber, toe, steering centerpoint, endpoints. If it still does check for steering binding and tweak.
Thanks Valk,

I have put it on the setup station and set the caber and toe.

What is steering centre point and endpoints and how do I check them?

Ryan
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Old 07-08-2015, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Another rookie question.

Why does my car turn more in one direction? It has a smaller turning circle one way. How can I fix this?

Cheers Ryan
I'd start with removing the servo arm and then zeroing out your axles on a setup station. Then set the EPA on the radio to 100% and Trim / Sub Trim to 0% each. Then install the servo arm trying to get it as close to center as possible using the setup station toe gauge. If any adjustment is necessary, then I'd adjust the turnbuckle until I get a perfectly center reading on the setup station toe gauge. Then I'll adjust the EPA on the radio with the car still setup on the station making sure each direction swings in equal proportion. I'll dial back the EPA so there is no binding. Then I'll install the wheels and take the car for a test drive making sure to fine tune any center adjustment using the sub trim. The trim will shift the entire servo over which is fine if your EPA can counteract any trim if necessary, but I usually leave the trim alone and only touch the sub-trim.
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Old 07-08-2015, 06:21 PM
  #3735  
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are they going to release s3 version this season/year?

how are the stock springs?

Last edited by TeamThibault; 07-10-2015 at 01:37 AM. Reason: MORE Q'S
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