Spec-R R1

Old 03-30-2015, 05:22 AM
  #3676  
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
4 degrees.
Thanks.

Let's say I bought one set of those Associated C Hubs with adjustable caster. Would I want to set it to something other than 4? Why?

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Old 03-30-2015, 08:13 AM
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Caster changes turn in. On my old tc4s I always liked how they worked with 6 degrees. It just felt sharper.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:23 PM
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Caster isn't just about turn in. It.moves the sharpness of the steering through the range of speed. Lower caster will give you sharper turn in when off the throttle where higher caster will make entry less aggressive but increase overall all steering at mid and exit. also more high speed steering.
For stock 4deg is great for all conditions buy modified could use 5 and 6 degrees to make the car a little easier to handle.
I might try the adjustable chubs myself. Though ae. suggests glueing the inserts in.
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Old 03-30-2015, 03:29 PM
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Well that's a much better answer than mine! lol. The thing I like the most about the associated ones is that they can be used on both sides because of the inserts. I have 13 left side c-hubs and no right side. It's infuriating. The option to choose a different caster angle is a sweet bonus.
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Old 03-30-2015, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Butler02 View Post
Well that's a much better answer than mine! lol. The thing I like the most about the associated ones is that they can be used on both sides because of the inserts. I have 13 left side c-hubs and no right side. It's infuriating. The option to choose a different caster angle is a sweet bonus.
That's funny. I was hoping it would work that way. I hate buying two when I only need rights...
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:10 PM
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AE caster blocks are far less durable than Spec R. The TC5 ones are better, but don't have the inserts.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:18 PM
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I dont really break caster blocks. the xray hard foam bumper really helps with that. steering blocks however... track layout has a lot to do with caster choice. car class ect and drive style. if your the type of driver who arcs all the corners trying to maintain momentum, you would want more static caster.
driving point to point and allowing the car to rotate around on its own would want less static caster, but the car would be much less stable at speed and over bumps.


sorry i havent been able to get to the track in a timely manner.. i basically had to spend all my free time taking two fullscale cars apart, doing an engine swap, rebuilding the body and driveline of one and recycling the other. almost done, just have to put the body back together having finished the paint work. then the friend who helped me with all this needs the clutch done on his supra, gotta help with that. i might not be able to race this weekend.
hoping to get to the track for some solo practice with the r2 this friday maybe. I have to say after setting the car up though, i might be going back to my old shocks. the smooth finish and tight threads of the shock bodies are pretty difficult to tighten/adjust properly. i miss the knurled finish.

ah well. car looks pretty good otherwise.
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:54 PM
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I just fitted the AE adjustable caster blocks with 6 degrees of caster.

Pretty much a direct drop in with the following changes:

1. Didn't over-tighten the ballstud and bottom 3x8 button head to keep it freed up.
2. Had to create my own hole for the set screw.
3. The AE caster blocks had just a smidgen of wiggle in the Spec-R A arm. One .5mm spacer took care of that.
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Old 04-04-2015, 06:29 AM
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Hit the boards one time and broke the AE C Hub. They're coming off.

Question: Why are the R2 turnbuckles so much shorter than the R1 turnbuckles? I feel like my ball cups are threaded way out on the end of the turnbuckle when my camber and toe are adjusted correctly.

Also, very weird issue with my rear gear diff. Noticed it was really really stiff. Emptied the oil out. Still stiff. Turns out that the o-rings alone make it feel like I've got 100,000 wt oil in there. Anyone else had issues with the orange o-rings?
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:38 PM
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havent really had issues with any of the hd geardifs ive put together. i did use some crc 30k lube on the orings and the outdrive sfor sealing purpose. sand the bottom of the gears so they fit in a little looser with the shims ect. maybe you have your screws too tight and compressing the gears.

turn buckles are indeed shorter, but when you upgrade to titanium, just follow the r1 standard. the r2 lengths are good for when you use the most outboard link locations on the inside though.
i run inside outer, and inside on the hub in the back. front i run middle/outer holes. my r1 turnbuckles were almost too long for the rear, but the r2 about perfect. in the front id run r1 length turnbuckles for sure.

chubs... honestly the old spec r parts are just fine. invest in the hardest front bumper you can and just try to hit less..I might try to get an NT1 hard front bumper and just trim it to fit 190mm. its wider than standard tc bumpers.
hit hard enough and any chub is gonna break. some people have used aluminum ones with success though.
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:56 PM
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Bumper wouldn't helped. This a flush hit on the entire left side of the car when I went into the sweeper one lane high and got into the marbles.

The gear diff issue was definitely the o-ring. Just spinning the outdrive on one-half of the opened up diff was stiff.
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Old 04-04-2015, 05:23 PM
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Got my r2 on carpet for first time. I transfered my r1 setup just to see the difference. With my rsd chassis the car just feels super predictable and I can really stuff the nose in with confidence.
Uploading some practice laps to youtube. Only.one other tc out tonight. I might get a recording of a battle with him. hard to pass.
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Old 04-04-2015, 05:42 PM
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Just some practice. First laps.
Spec r r2: http://youtu.be/vS__RWg00lA

Ps I haven't been to an rc track since february hah.
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Old 04-05-2015, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
Just some practice. First laps.
Spec r r2: http://youtu.be/vS__RWg00lA

Ps I haven't been to an rc track since february hah.
That wasn't to bad for not been to a track in 6 weeks or so ;-)
But i did get the feeling the car could use some more steering and the rear seemed a bit to loose for my driving style.

But hey, my eyes could be getting old ;-)
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
Bumper wouldn't helped. This a flush hit on the entire left side of the car when I went into the sweeper one lane high and got into the marbles.

The gear diff issue was definitely the o-ring. Just spinning the outdrive on one-half of the opened up diff was stiff.
Make sure you are using low profile nuts and cut your axles flush with the edge of the nut. This increases durabilty tremendously as the axle does not dig into the boards when you side swipe them.

Valk, the chassis will require a couple of track days to break in. It will just feel better as it starts gettin a little more flexy.

I'll try to put my settings up within a day or two.
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