Spec-R R1

Old 03-04-2015, 05:53 PM
  #3616  
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ill upload to youtube or facebook but link it here.

ill point out things that i think are important but most of it is making sure your hingpins are square and chassis is tweak free from the bulkheads ect. smooth driveline ect. its lal on the interwebs already, i can just condense it into a short spec r specific video.
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Old 03-04-2015, 09:26 PM
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Default RSD SR-2 Aluminum Chassis for R2

Finally got it done. Now to do some testing and further refinement...

Below is a picture:
Attached Thumbnails Spec-R R1-image.jpg  
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:20 PM
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PIMPIN!
cant wait!
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Old 03-07-2015, 09:33 AM
  #3619  
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What is the purpose of the plastic spacers inside the front and rear hubs?

The bearing sit on shoulders and aren't going inwards, so what do the spacers do?

I may be wrong, but the bearings seem to roll more freely without the spacers.
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Old 03-07-2015, 10:04 AM
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Spacers prevent the inner races from being compressed together by the clamping wheel hex. Much more important than if the outer races are allowed to move ever so slightly.
Ideally the bearings should be able to float a little bit but the inner races should be clamped together so you can tighten the wheel nuts and not have to worry about crushing bearings.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
Spacers prevent the inner races from being compressed together by the clamping wheel hex. Much more important than if the outer races are allowed to move ever so slightly.
Ideally the bearings should be able to float a little bit but the inner races should be clamped together so you can tighten the wheel nuts and not have to worry about crushing bearings.
I'll be honest, I didn't understand all of that eh?
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:57 AM
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I notice that the setup sheet for the R2 includes settings for Active Rear Toe System.

Assuming that's when you use front knuckles in the rear.

Does somebody know if there are instructions for installing that? Specifically, the additional parts one would need to set that up?
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Old 03-08-2015, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
I notice that the setup sheet for the R2 includes settings for Active Rear Toe System.

Assuming that's when you use front knuckles in the rear.

Does somebody know if there are instructions for installing that? Specifically, the additional parts one would need to set that up?
The ARS system option not release yet, you need 2 poles also, should coming soon
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Old 03-08-2015, 11:41 AM
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if you dont use the spacer, the claiming hex will pull the bearings inner race together which adds undue wear to them.in simplest terms, it will make the bearings tighter and less racey the more you tighten the wheel until they stop turning entirely.
it puts load on the bearing that they are not designed to carry. with the spacer *and some additional 5mm shims cause its not thick enough to do what its intended to do* you have the inner races of the bearings clamped together so they cant be compressed when you tighten the wheel nuts or hexes in place no matter how tight.
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Old 03-08-2015, 01:59 PM
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That helped.

Because I run VTA I run wider hexes because of the clearance needed for the vintage wheels. I use 3racing 6mm on the rear and 7mm on the fronts. (I use locknuts without a flange because I don't have enough threads to lock it down if I don't.)

With those hexes, the pin stops the hex from even contacting the outer wheel bearing at all.

Of course, I do have a bit of slop insomuch at the wheels move in and out.

I'll pull all four corners this week and check the bearings and replace the spacers.

What 5mm shims are you using?
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Old 03-08-2015, 05:00 PM
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Today was my first run with the spec R r1 prospec. The pros are- the car is very stable and has good corner speed. The cons are- all the parts come loose especially the steering. The steering has a lot of slop/play. How can I eliminate this. Also I had to lock tight the ballstuds. The kit ballstuds for the rear uprights were too short.This also came loose. I had to install longer ones. Also the camber links come loose very quickly and have a lot of play. Are there upgrades for this. Possibly eyelet ones. My goal is to have a tight car. Thanks any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-08-2015, 05:03 PM
  #3627  
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You need Locktite anywhere you're screwing aluminum into aluminum. Aluminum into plastic should be good to go unless you strip out the plastic. If you do, use one tiny drop of CA as your "Locktite".

A lot of us don't use the Spec-R ballcups. Use the Tamiya ones instead.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=865

Don't know about the ball studs being too short. Unless you used the long ones somewhere else?

Sloppy steering rack fixes were just discussed in the last couple pages.
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Old 03-08-2015, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
You need Locktite anywhere you're screwing aluminum into aluminum. Aluminum into plastic should be good to go unless you strip out the plastic. If you do, use one tiny drop of CA as your "Locktite".

A lot of us don't use the Spec-R ballcups. Use the Tamiya ones instead.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=865

Don't know about the ball studs being too short. Unless you used the long ones somewhere else?

Sloppy steering rack fixes were just discussed in the last couple pages.
Thanks for the info. Every little bit helps. I'll go back a few pages and read up. Does any one use the X-ray ballcups.
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Old 03-08-2015, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc D View Post
Thanks for the info. Every little bit helps. I'll go back a few pages and read up. Does any one use the X-ray ballcups.
We're Spec-R owners. Which means we don't like paying double for the same thing...



On the steering rack, I asked a similar question in post #3589. People's suggestions start after that.
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Old 03-12-2015, 07:38 AM
  #3630  
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The O-rings that go in these new shock collars on R2's widebody shocks are driving me nuts!

I didn't have any issues with the previous iterations of the shocks. I swear these o-rings are too large.

Anyone have any tips for getting them in there?
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