Spec-R R1

Old 01-09-2015, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Robbob View Post
Yes - all the same between the two cars.
Thanks for the info and fast reply !
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:14 AM
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short answer, yes you can use the s1 seperate mounts with the r1 rear/front mount if you wish, but you will still need the inserts for the rear/front. its advisable to pick up the r1 seperate mounts as well if you are using the rear/front. then you can follow the table to figure out inboard toe as well as adjust trackwidth without wider hex/shims.
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Old 01-09-2015, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
short answer, yes you can use the s1 seperate mounts with the r1 rear/front mount if you wish, but you will still need the inserts for the rear/front. its advisable to pick up the r1 seperate mounts as well if you are using the rear/front. then you can follow the table to figure out inboard toe as well as adjust trackwidth without wider hex/shims.
Yes I have ordered the seperate mounts as well from tqrc, until they arrive what adapters would I use to get 3 toe in ?
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:59 PM
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I've never tried to.mix the two so couldn't tell you. I'd start with the narrowest inserts, which I belive are one dot facing in. Measure that to see.
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:41 PM
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This is freaky. I came here to ask the exact same question that is currently being discussed.

I want to get down to 2 degree in on my S1/S2. So in lieu of ordering the aluminum parts and inserts, I got another idea.

Going to flip the front pivot mounts (on the rear of course) so that the holes are out instead of in. Wonder what my 3.5, 3.0 and 2.5 rears will actually end up giving me?
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Old 01-11-2015, 04:03 PM
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Well, I had to use the 3.5 rear mount to get any appreciable toe in. With the 2.5 on the rear it looked almost straight or maybe .5 in.

I might have 1.5 now.
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Old 01-11-2015, 08:40 PM
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when you get your proper rear mount, use 1 dot or 2 dot out to get your desired toe out. in stock form the s1/2 is very narrow.

considering I manhandled 4 classes this weekend, tech and stuff i did alright. Qualified directly to the A main in MOD TC behind some of the WCICS best. went on to finish 7th overall. car was pretty good through qualifying and i secured the spot fairly early, but with so many pancars, the traction came up so much i had a hard time driving the car properly as it would traction roll any time i got aggressive.. i might have been the only one to traction roll a chicane lol.

not a bad result for the r1 though.
s2 managed middle of the B qualify and finish though i didnt really work on it too much through the weekend. it too had some problems with grabbing and pitching over when i tried to chuck the nose in heh.

ill run fewer classes next time. on the fence if ill get an r2 or not. im sure the price will keep me in the camp though. I cant be spending $500 on kits.
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:44 PM
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So here's the deal on this subject...

Talking about the rear only here. Using my R1 to measure. But trying to make changes to my S1/S2.

Stock on the R1 is the ... inboard on the fronts. I've got .. on the rears. That gives me 2.5 degrees in.

If I try and stay with the plastic mounts on the front of the S, the holes are much more off-center than the aluminum mounts with the ... inboard.

So with plastic mounts on the front (of the rear) and the aluminum mount on the rear EVEN WITH the . in, you'd still be at 2.5 degrees. Because the .5 degree you pick up on the rear, you more than offset up front. Got it?

Executive summary: If you're trying to get something other than 2.5, 3.0 or 3.5 rear toe on the S model, you need aluminum mounts front and rear (on the rear).
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
So here's the deal on this subject...

Talking about the rear only here. Using my R1 to measure. But trying to make changes to my S1/S2.

Stock on the R1 is the ... inboard on the fronts. I've got .. on the rears. That gives me 2.5 degrees in.

If I try and stay with the plastic mounts on the front of the S, the holes are much more off-center than the aluminum mounts with the ... inboard.

So with plastic mounts on the front (of the rear) and the aluminum mount on the rear EVEN WITH the . in, you'd still be at 2.5 degrees. Because the .5 degree you pick up on the rear, you more than offset up front. Got it?

Executive summary: If you're trying to get something other than 2.5, 3.0 or 3.5 rear toe on the S model, you need aluminum mounts front and rear (on the rear).
Thanks for clearing that up. Mounts should be here in a couple days and I'll do it right. Tomorrow night I'll practice with 2.5 and see how it handles.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rtenzo02 View Post
Thanks for clearing that up. Mounts should be here in a couple days and I'll do it right. Tomorrow night I'll practice with 2.5 and see how it handles.
I just installed the rear R1 mount using the 1 . inserts with the stock plastic S1 rear seperate mounts and I definitely have more rear toe-in then I did using all S1 parts including the 3 mount. Without measuring just eyeing it I can already tell. Maybe using my camber gauge against a wall I can get a more accurate figure.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:39 PM
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Up against a wall I am getting 2.5 toe ! It looks like more than I had with the plastic 3 insert , maybe I should have my eyes checked , lol. Funny thing is the 1. Inserts allow the hinge pins to sit wider apart than the 3.0 S1 mount does when comparing. Flipped the S1 seperate mounts around and I get 3 of toe.

Last edited by rtenzo02; 01-16-2015 at 06:03 AM.
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:57 PM
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I'm looking for a servo saver for the S1/S2, any recomendations? I stripped out a ball cup on the tie rod between the servo and bell crank after tagging the wall.

Also, are you guys running the battery with terminal to the rear or to the front?
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:07 AM
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Tamiya servo saver
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:36 AM
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Part #51000
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Old 02-03-2015, 02:50 PM
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I HIGHLY recommend an x-ray servo saver.
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