TxMike_64

It's not that much cheaper... plus it's pink and has philips head screws...

1101

How does $8 sound for genuine sak . Cheap enough so may just give it a try.
http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-alumin...=595_1419_1467
http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-center...=595_1419_1467


How is everyone stopping the lipo from sliding in & rubbbing on the belt ? It sits pretty close.
Is batt tape enough, or should I drill the chassis plate & put a small bolt in as a stopper ?

Cheers

thomsva

Check the build instructions steps 34 and 37. The servo mount and the motor mount should be equipped with screws acting as battery stoppers.

mrjudd77

1101. There are those screws on the servo mount and motor mount, you can also attach some velcro to the bottom of the battery and to the deck of the chassis.

1101

Thanks for that. easy to miss in such a small (but good) build manual.
I downloaded the pdf & printed out a few pages.

Now I only need to sort out are the S2 shocks & springs
Kit shocks are too long for the new lower kit shock towers (duh) , but luckily I have a new set of 3Racing Sak shorty shocks. yep pink bits on the Spec-R
The short pink shocks solve the ride hight issue, I just need to go through my box of misc springs & hopefully find softer springs , to give the car some droop .

Thats the hard part now, sorting out springs, too hard & there is no droop, too soft & its going to scrape under braking.
Any hints on sorting this would be appreciated (Ive tried the shocks at more of an angle etc)


Overall, for an $80 car its pretty good. Just let down by several shock issues & layshaft design/build.
Even with the alu upgrades I bought, its still only $150 all up.

Sydewynder

The kit shocks on the S2 are the correct length. It's the springs that are too long. Tamiya short/mini springs fit and gives room to adjust the ride height, droop, etc

valk

iTrader: (13)

use position d on the front arms maybe c on the rears. you can get 5mm np with the stock shocks, just need to pick the right holes.

addicted2blue

I've had the same problem, i ended up with using some tamiya TRF418 big bore springs and voila the problem was solved.
I was able to do some droop settings as it's ment to be.
I also ordered a softer Spec-R spring set (2.5 -2.8) for my R1 and i gues they will also work on de S2 but haven't tried them yet.

valk

iTrader: (13)

i put in my last outdoor race of the season in touring stock and nitro and had probably my best outdoor race of the year. I left my r1pro largely untouched from the setup i posted recently. though i changed back to the ride 3.1 springs up front. didnt change the shock positions, just took out a half turn of preload and raced it.

all three rounds were very tight at the top with the top three all within a second for the full 6 minutes of qualifying. we do heads up qualifiers for club races so always exciting.
round three i took the tq away from blake who was right on my tail with his s2. p3 would be held by craig with his 5 year old t2 09 lol.
he kicks my butt rather regularly and almost never works on that car lol.. blake just takes it out of the box and puts it on the track..
mad skills.

so i had tq. had a good start in the main and first 5 minutes fairly uneventful. blake would gain a bit here and lose a bit there but was close for thae 5 minutes.. but then i got a little paniced with him closing in, got a little close to the dots and rolled the car lol..
id finish second maybe a second behind him.

nitro was kind of the same story. tq in round 3 cause blake didnt run. lead much of the race with a fairly consistant gap, to get passed in the pits lol.
1.5 second botched pit entry was the gap id lose for the rest of the race..
but was awesome. no complaints.

spec r was awesome. looking forward to putting it on carpet as victoria opens its first perm onroad facility, matrix hobbies =)

1101

I have a set of those. Even the 2.5 seemed too hard on the S2. Also are aprox the same length as my kit OEM springs .
Im using 3Racing M03 (Mini) springs on Sakura shocks, seems to do the job, on the bench at least. Waiting for a weekend without rain.

filippimini

Hi guys,

I'm not sure if it's my driving style or the setup, but I am having trouble with the rear end sliding out when powering out of a corner. It's kind of like driving a car with the front belt removed. I really have to accelerate slowly out of corners.

Any advice?

big al

iTrader: (10)

Try putting the 1mm kit shims under the suspension mounts at the front end of the car. Then make sure you set your ride height and droop. Worked Like a charm for me!

addicted2blue

I have been thinking to buy the carbon damper stays of the R1, that should solve any problem with the dampers/springs on my S2 chassis.
Been thinking to buy the upper deck of the R1 version too, this should improve the flex of the chassis and it will give me more space on de lower deck to mount a waterproof box for my electronics.
Here is an example of what i have been drawing so far.

addicted2blue

Does anyone of you guys know where i could find the R1 Pro Spec upper deck (it's the B-type version with part nr SPR-R1G757)?
It seems they are sold out everwhere i could find them.

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

They have been out of stock for almost 6 months! I looked, waited and gave up