Spec-R R1
08-31-2014, 01:56 PM
#3271
Tech Fanatic
So far i haven't been able to solve the problems but i have my TRF dampers mounted and they work great.
The standard S2 dampers are in my opinion to hard so i'm thinking to drill the holes in the piston to a bigger diameter and perhaps use some softer springs
And still the right front camber turnbuckle is still 3mm longer then the left side but i will test the car this week and i will see if it effects the handling.
The standard S2 dampers are in my opinion to hard so i'm thinking to drill the holes in the piston to a bigger diameter and perhaps use some softer springs
And still the right front camber turnbuckle is still 3mm longer then the left side but i will test the car this week and i will see if it effects the handling.
08-31-2014, 02:24 PM
#3272
The s2s I built; I used hole d on the front arm and the second from inside on the tower. With the preload collar all the way out it gave 5-5.5 ride height with a ready to run 17.5 tc.
Alternately, you could get some xray short springs. Guy in our club runs 2.5 f/r
As for damper stiffness, I run 3 holes 350-450 cst. Might go stiffer for mod though.
Alternately, you could get some xray short springs. Guy in our club runs 2.5 f/r
As for damper stiffness, I run 3 holes 350-450 cst. Might go stiffer for mod though.
08-31-2014, 02:40 PM
#3273
Hi guys,
Where is the best spot to buy spares for these? I'm chasing some parts to build up a second s1. I need the bulkheads, motor mounts, bumper and mount, pivot arms both inner and outer, c hub bushings.
It almost seems as though buying an s2 kit would be cheaper.
Ryan
Where is the best spot to buy spares for these? I'm chasing some parts to build up a second s1. I need the bulkheads, motor mounts, bumper and mount, pivot arms both inner and outer, c hub bushings.
It almost seems as though buying an s2 kit would be cheaper.
Ryan
08-31-2014, 02:59 PM
#3274
Tech Fanatic
The s2s I built; I used hole d on the front arm and the second from inside on the tower. With the preload collar all the way out it gave 5-5.5 ride height with a ready to run 17.5 tc.
Alternately, you could get some xray short springs. Guy in our club runs 2.5 f/r
As for damper stiffness, I run 3 holes 350-450 cst. Might go stiffer for mod though.
Alternately, you could get some xray short springs. Guy in our club runs 2.5 f/r
As for damper stiffness, I run 3 holes 350-450 cst. Might go stiffer for mod though.
I did fill the dampers with 450 (front) and 350 (rear) and all of them with a 3 holes piston.
I don't know the rate of the springs but when i campare them with my TRF dampers that are filled with 500 and 600 with also 3 holes pistons, tamiya White&Yellow springs they are a lot stiffer.
Are those Xray short springs also big bore springs?
08-31-2014, 07:01 PM
#3275
i dont think so. the t414 i build didnt have big bore shocks so they just looked like short tc springs. nothing special.
id go back to how you built your shocks then. check that you assembled the packing correctly as the direction the things face will affect how the oring is pinched, or how tight you did them up. also, how you are assembling the top.
i might have to do a video on how i build my shocks but its not that different from most of the other ones you see online. I couldnt tell a difference vs my xray shocks. trf might be a little smoother just from the materials used too.
spec r spring rates are about 2.9-3 in the front or red and 2.7ish for the rear, white.
id go back to how you built your shocks then. check that you assembled the packing correctly as the direction the things face will affect how the oring is pinched, or how tight you did them up. also, how you are assembling the top.
i might have to do a video on how i build my shocks but its not that different from most of the other ones you see online. I couldnt tell a difference vs my xray shocks. trf might be a little smoother just from the materials used too.
spec r spring rates are about 2.9-3 in the front or red and 2.7ish for the rear, white.
09-01-2014, 01:05 AM
#3276
Tech Fanatic
i dont think so. the t414 i build didnt have big bore shocks so they just looked like short tc springs. nothing special.
id go back to how you built your shocks then. check that you assembled the packing correctly as the direction the things face will affect how the oring is pinched, or how tight you did them up. also, how you are assembling the top.
i might have to do a video on how i build my shocks but its not that different from most of the other ones you see online. I couldnt tell a difference vs my xray shocks. trf might be a little smoother just from the materials used too.
spec r spring rates are about 2.9-3 in the front or red and 2.7ish for the rear, white.
id go back to how you built your shocks then. check that you assembled the packing correctly as the direction the things face will affect how the oring is pinched, or how tight you did them up. also, how you are assembling the top.
i might have to do a video on how i build my shocks but its not that different from most of the other ones you see online. I couldnt tell a difference vs my xray shocks. trf might be a little smoother just from the materials used too.
spec r spring rates are about 2.9-3 in the front or red and 2.7ish for the rear, white.
But it's just they feel way to stiff compared to my TRF ones with a thicker oil.
I even tried TRF418 springs and still they feel to stiff, so i guess the holes in the pistons are to small.
I will take a look at that and i'll report later the outcome.
09-01-2014, 03:16 AM
#3277
It is a popular option to replace the Spec-R shocks and springs. Try the tamiya ones, I have heard god things about them. Personally I run the Spec-r ones. I will be replacing them for next season though. I am on the hunt for extra speed and control. I can't believe that I am seconds per lap behind the A-main drivers. There must be shenanigans going on
09-01-2014, 03:39 AM
#3278
Tech Fanatic
It is a popular option to replace the Spec-R shocks and springs. Try the tamiya ones, I have heard god things about them. Personally I run the Spec-r ones. I will be replacing them for next season though. I am on the hunt for extra speed and control. I can't believe that I am seconds per lap behind the A-main drivers. There must be shenanigans going on
I've been rechecking the S2 dampers to mount them back on the car and to my surprise they do work now, a bit stiff but it's ok now.
I haven't got to much preload on them, especially at the front cause that was the case at the beginning.
I will first try to order a set of Spec-R springs with a rate between 2.5-2.8 and see how it goes from there.
If it still doesn't feel as it should be then i will replace them to TRF dampers.
What i really didn't expect to work are the plastic damper body's, but they actually work good enough (so far, still have to test the car first).
Next thing to do is to paint up a new body.
09-01-2014, 04:14 PM
#3280
totally agree there valk. the plastic bodies are good just prone to cross threading. The alu option from the R1 is a better option. The Tamiya springs are the better option I believe. Should have been a little clearer there. I will look at the TRF dampers when I do replace mine.
09-02-2014, 02:06 AM
#3281
Tech Addict
09-02-2014, 11:27 AM
#3282
If anyone can find 12mm xray short damper bodies nd shafts, I'd grab somw to try.short shock on specr. Though depends on cost.
The s2s short towers aren't really that mucher. Could accomplish something similar by lowering the position on the arm, something team.magic.did with the e4.
Another example would be kyoshos adapter plates for the zx5 which lowers the shock position while maintaining a full volume shock.
The s2s short towers aren't really that mucher. Could accomplish something similar by lowering the position on the arm, something team.magic.did with the e4.
Another example would be kyoshos adapter plates for the zx5 which lowers the shock position while maintaining a full volume shock.
09-02-2014, 02:08 PM
#3283
Tech Fanatic
Been testing the S2 today on a large outdoor tracks and the car was at first a bit oversteerd.
Fastest time in the first heat was 17.942s.
Did a few minor changes to the setup, like upper mount of the front dampers 1 hole more inwards and lower the rear inner ball by 0,5mm.
The car was better but still the car feld to stiff, fastest time then was 17.602 (almost 0.350s faster)
I then put some tamiya big bore springs on the Spec-R S2 standard dampers and the car was waaaay better, fastest laptime was 17.543s
Total improvement was 0.399seconds faster, not bad at all.
The car was pretty good and the performance was great.
I look forward to the upcoming race this sunday.
I'm plesantly impressed by it's performance.
Fastest time in the first heat was 17.942s.
Did a few minor changes to the setup, like upper mount of the front dampers 1 hole more inwards and lower the rear inner ball by 0,5mm.
The car was better but still the car feld to stiff, fastest time then was 17.602 (almost 0.350s faster)
I then put some tamiya big bore springs on the Spec-R S2 standard dampers and the car was waaaay better, fastest laptime was 17.543s
Total improvement was 0.399seconds faster, not bad at all.
The car was pretty good and the performance was great.
I look forward to the upcoming race this sunday.
I'm plesantly impressed by it's performance.
09-02-2014, 04:13 PM
#3284
Would you say the lap times came down because of the shocks, or is it a result of other factors? Getting used to the car, Temps, track conditions?
09-02-2014, 06:25 PM
#3285
spring rate was the problem then and not the damper stiffness?
I can believe it. factory spring rates are probably better for carpet than asphalt. when i first got the car i had to take out all the top plate screws and put the arm block son the floor to get it to stick. I also run my front shocks very laid down with the rears in the middle on the outside lower hole. you can mess around with mounting position and make it work though.
Right now im running 2.7/2.8. though i used to run 3.1 in the front. as the tires wear, i went softer.
one of these days ill buy a few sets of soft springs to try in the back. though i dont like my cars to lumber around too much in the backside. i like a sharp car.
I can believe it. factory spring rates are probably better for carpet than asphalt. when i first got the car i had to take out all the top plate screws and put the arm block son the floor to get it to stick. I also run my front shocks very laid down with the rears in the middle on the outside lower hole. you can mess around with mounting position and make it work though.
Right now im running 2.7/2.8. though i used to run 3.1 in the front. as the tires wear, i went softer.
one of these days ill buy a few sets of soft springs to try in the back. though i dont like my cars to lumber around too much in the backside. i like a sharp car.
