mooby64

iTrader: (3)

A small piece of servo tape, under the inboard side of the servo may do the trick. If you want to go more "old school" use a little Shoe Goo to keep it from moving around.

rtenzo02

iTrader: (3)

Thanks mooby for responding, wouldn't the tape or shoe goo defeat the floating servo effect ? Without much thought I assume it wouldn't be much different then using the outer servo mount ? Using the inner mount only, would allow the chassis to flex more than using the 1 mount and tape or goo ? I look at the adhesive as the outer mount seeing it bonds the servo across the chassis vs using a single inner mount that secures the servo to the chassis all by itself ? Help me out here ! Thanks again !

1101

Hi guys.
Im considering an S2 (over the Sakura)

A couple of questions
- Are the diff outdrives metal or plastic
- does it have CV's front & back (ie NOT dogbones)
- Will a silvercan/old school brushed motor actuall fit the motor mount. I know newer cars motor mounts are designed with Silvercans in mind.....
- Are the optional sway bars needed for low stock/silvercan racing ?
- How fussy is setup on this... Im really after a car that will drive well if the setup isnt 100% spot on. Its just a lack of time sort of thing, I just want to turn up & race, not spend hours finding the right setup.
Ive been out of racing for 3 years, but want to get back into racing occasionly, so dont want to spend big $ on a car that wont be used that often.

Cheers

rtenzo02

iTrader: (3)

If I may , I've read a few post from people saying the spec r cars perform well right out of the box with stock manual settings.

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

Use just the inner mount with a small bit of servo tape to keep the outer portion of the servo "floating" above the chassis. A small dab of Shoe Goo, around the inner edge of the servo, will allow the chassis to flex/twist, and keep the servo in place. Hope this helps.

rtenzo02

iTrader: (3)

OK so it will still allow more flex than using both mounts ! By the way I'm not bugging out over upgrading to a $15 r1 mount , just looking to learn the physics, thanks Mooby, so far everyone's been great to me here on rctech, RACE ON !

imajerky

iTrader: (16)

Plastic outdrives, today I broke one. It took a very hard hit to do it, new track to me with substantial boards.
CV's, very decent.
I can not answer the silver can question.
I do not use sways, have had no issues without them.
I have ran the car at three different tracks, same setup. No issues.
Can not beat it for the price, ran it against some very good comp while travelling. Car was not lacking, loose nut behind the wheel.

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

The great thing about the Spec-R cars is that parts are CHEAP. Buying the upgrade parts is a whole lot cheaper than Xray or Tamiya.

rtenzo02

iTrader: (3)

I agree and that's 1 of the reasons I chose this chassis, low dollar, designed well, and able to compete with the expensive brands.

imajerky

iTrader: (16)

Have to clarify...plastic spool, metal out back.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Myself and my son changed to a gear diff up front as we broke numerous driveshaft joints with the spool. Now use one million thickness oil in the front diff without any problems.

The Spec R cars need setting up just like any car. The stock set up is fine, but you also have to consider driver style and track conditions which may need changes to the set up.

addicted2blue

Just ordered myself a R1 Pro Spec kit.
Looking forward to the building part and driving the car.

mrjudd77

addictedtoblue. when you are done I think you will change your name to addictedtored.
Enjoy the build

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

What is the number of teeth on the S1 diff pulley and front one way pulley? and yes its late and I don't want count teeth so I'll just ask if anyone knows.

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

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