RoyU

iTrader: (2)

What would be a good startting point for front and rear droop? The manual does not have any basic or team set ups. I run on a semi-bumpy asphalt track in VTA. The car is a S1 pretty much converted to R1.

valk

iTrader: (13)

we did ours with speed passion reventon club race and 17.5 combos, savox servos, spectrum radios and turnigy batteries/chargers.
we dont really touch anything not roar approved so much of the china brands are out, and why would you, when you can get a roar approved 2s esc for $44?

for droop setups; typically 3mm over ride height on both axles is a good place to start adding or subtracting as needed. on a downstop gauge this will vary, but assuming the 1mm shims are in place under the arms, 6 and 5 is a good place to start.

the thing that made teh biggest difference for me i think was running with only 4 top plate screws. car is very stuck with that much flex.

mrjudd77

I run the Trackstar 120A and it seems good so far. The X-Car 60A was good as a starter that lasted about 18 months. The best advice I have received is don't skimp on the speedy. Buy once buy right.

poeee

Could someone please confirm whether these are compatible with the standard S1 drive shafts? http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=170

I've busted the outdrive pins two shafts.

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

They should be a direct fit.

Marc D

I've been looking for 64 pitch spur gears from 90-100 but spec-r's lowest spur gear is 105. Are there any other gears that would fit?

.crispy

All of them. The key is the width of the spur in the center affects the overall width of the spur assembly. I have both the black and the white bushings so I can get it all shimmed up properly.

Marc D

Ok thanks for the info. I'm going to order some X-ray spurs.

baznz

Hi all what FGR are you running with 17.5 ??

mrjudd77

Forgot to mention earlier. I had a minor meltdown in my car last race meet. Belt came off at the center pulley, this caused as much damage as I suspect it possibly could have. Front belt gone, center shaft scored, 2x flanged bearings, both sides of the center pulley melted (had plastic, not alum ones as they are still out of stock)

Aside from this happening in the first final, I was happy with how the car ran all night. This week I need to get new wheels on it and finish a new body as my old one has found the end of its useful life. Hope to have the program cable for the new speedy this week so I can adjust the settings on it to match what I prefer and get rid of the turbo timing.

filippimini

I'm really new to touring cars and rc in general and I'm running a second hand S1 in 21.5 blinky. I'm loving it but I don't really understand what I'm doing.

I'm really happy with how the car is handling but it's not fast enought for my liking.

I'm running a 42t pinion and 70t spur for a fdr of 3.17. I'm using a hobbywing xerun 2.0 and turnigy trackstar 21.5. I've got no timing on the motor, and it's running at around 70c. What can I do to get more top speed without overheating the motor?

Any advice would be great.

TxMike_64

I'm still learning about gearing, and brushless motors as well. I'm just getting back into TC since leaving in 2004... BUT... You can always go down on spur or up on pinion for a numerically lower ratio. You can turn up the timing on the endbell, or in the ESC to get a little more top end. But if you are running a Blinky class you can't use timing on the ESC. If you aren't running a Blinky 21.5 class, you can just go to a faster motor (17.5 etc).

A 21.5 is only going to go so fast....

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I run a Spec-R R1 in the CVTA class on a 21.5 motor. I set my FDR to about 3.8 and I advance the motor timing as well. I tune based on motor heat and avoid going over 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Had a fun time at Ready to run Raceway this last weekend. We ran a trophy race on saturday and two enduro races on sunday.. a really full weekend of racing for sure.

saturday was a little rough as i was running a new esc I didnt relaly read up on how to setup. Picked up a hobbywing 3.1 which i have in my single cell cars but forgot that it sags batteries hcore in mod lol. id punch it with my 4.0 and the car would shut off =\. had to disable the voltage protection so the sag must have been pretty awesome.

i also tried to do a motor/spur swap to run stock and mod on the chassis which didnt really work out for me. car was pretty good in both classes but two laps off pace in mod..
personal problems.

i did learn during the enduro to put just a small bit of loctite on all the aluminum bits, even the top ones.. i had the upper bulkheads back off in the front which made the car behave very strangely. otherwise, the front belt would flip on occasion, ill have to look into that.
the rest was tire failure. i guess next time we try to get an hour and a half on a set of tires, we will double tripple glue them.

i was on the fence about enduro racing, but the team element made it a lot of fun. we finished fourth in both our enduro classes. on pace to win both of them lol. anything can happen in 180minutes lol.

big al

iTrader: (10)

I need some advice from you guys.

I have an S1 that I ran this weekend in 17.5 (it was a beast by the way) and the only way I could get it down to 1380 grams was to use a shorty pack. I won a revtech 100c full size battery in a raffle, but can't find a way to get the car anywhere near 1380 grams. What's the secret. If I install a low profile servo and justock esc I only lose 15-20 grams. Which puts me around 1440. I already have about 95% of the screws changed to red aluminum. I previously used the car as a SS, so I never had this problem. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!