valk

iTrader: (13)

We had a club race this weekend with a nice contingent of vancouver racers joining us. weather was kinda iffy in the morning but turned out to be quite a nice sunny day by mains time.
spec r cars were well represented with blake continuing to show off his S2; Not quite able to take Tq from craig but qualifying a very strong second overall.
I Turned my R/S1 mix and match into a full blown R1 with all the hopups i have available; DJC's aluminum servo mount, layshaft carrier ect.
I qualified third overall and finished there.
a real fun main with 1-4 being nose to tail for the full 6 minutes.
Xray T3, Spec-R S2, Spec-R R1, Yokomo BD7.

i was hoping to run my prospec in modified but ended up blowing up my esc after a bad afternoon with nitro.. very easy to plug things in backward when your frustrated apparently =\ so im out for mod at speed weekend but at least i know my stock car is totally dialed for it.
not a lot changed for me but i did try flipping the rear arms around, using a slightly inboard lower shock hole and running a wider serpent 1.2mm swaybar in the rear. I think i was using the C hole to mount that and had a more direct influence swaybar in the back.

I tend to drive stock similar to mod, hit the brakes to pitch the nose in and let the car roll through.
I also went up to a 2000wt dif. overall very happy with that car.

valk

iTrader: (13)

We had a club race this weekend with a nice contingent of vancouver racers joining us. weather was kinda iffy in the morning but turned out to be quite a nice sunny day by mains time.
spec r cars were well represented with blake continuing to show off his S2; Not quite able to take Tq from craig but qualifying a very strong second overall.
I Turned my R/S1 mix and match into a full blown R1 with all the hopups i have available; DJC's aluminum servo mount, layshaft carrier ect.
I qualified third overall and finished there.
a real fun main with 1-4 being nose to tail for the full 6 minutes.
Xray T3, Spec-R S2, Spec-R R1, Yokomo BD7.

i was hoping to run my prospec in modified but ended up blowing up my esc after a bad afternoon with nitro.. very easy to plug things in backward when your frustrated apparently =\ so im out for mod at speed weekend but at least i know my stock car is totally dialed for it.
not a lot changed for me but i did try flipping the rear arms around, using a slightly inboard lower shock hole and running a wider serpent 1.2mm swaybar in the rear. I think i was using the C hole to mount that and had a more direct influence swaybar in the back.

I tend to drive stock similar to mod, hit the brakes to pitch the nose in and let the car roll through.
I also went up to a 2000wt dif. overall very happy with that car.

mrjudd77

Just got my new servo arrive during the week. Trying out the Trackstar servo like this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=43052
Not expensive but so far looks good. I will let you all know when I have raced it.

DBM

That is the same servo that I've been using in my R1 for the last 3 months. It has been solid and reliable. It does have a bit of play, but doesn't seem to be affecting anything. I used a kimbrough saver on it for the first month, but changed to a tamiya saver with aluminum arm and found that it now centers better after big hits compared to the kimbrough.

mrjudd77

I don't have a saver on my servo. I run the horn directly

DBM

In that case,II'm curious to hear how well that servo holds up. I've wanted to run without a servo saver, but am afraid to wreck my servo.

.crispy

I've run without savers on my R1 and S2 that I use for VTA and USGT.

Haven't broken the servos yet. I've had a few hard hits in each.

mrjudd77

DBM I figure the servo is only $40 to replace and either me or one of my race buddies have a spare laying around, so if I destroy one then I just put another in. I have been running without a saver for about the last year with no ill affect. I do run outdoor in 10.5T spec.

lmlindbo

There are so many things to adjust :-) I go completely blind :-)
Anyway. I've got a fairly stock S1. Setup mostly as the manual says. (shocks built with zero rebound because it's easy :-) )

I run on two different asphalt tracks. One a bit more bumpy than the other. As for grip level. I have no clue, as I have no reference.

I find that I get too little turn-in, and that the rear is way too loose on-power.

Any hints to where I should start adjusting? Springs? (I've got a RSD-kit of springs, so I can do something there), droop? roll-centre?

I need the car to be driveable. And then I can start playing with looking for more corner-speed etc...

Running sorex32 without juice.
blinky 13,5

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

If you quite lost with setup, please don't go for a "Mostly as manual" setup... First of all, restore ALL the settings as the manual says, then we can try to resolve the problem with the understeer and the oversteer... :-)

lmlindbo

Hehe. Guess you are right.

Will go back to original setup, and come back, if or when I have some more or the same issues.
Thanks!

It's just that the amount of settings is a bit overwhelming for someone who is mainly racing mini-Z's

PEEKracing

For me the manual set up was useless. I put stiffer springs all around and raised the inside camber links so the links are parallel (or close to) with the road surface. Then it started to work.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Parallal links for sure in the front. I think.I'm.running a mm less in the rear than the front.

When I get home ill write up a setup sheet

lmlindbo

Thanks! That would be great!
I will have a look at the links...
But. Regardless of what setup I have at the moment.
What can I do to get more off-power steering and less on-power steering?
I really want to learn this, not only copying someones setup

PitNamedGordie

iTrader: (8)

Post your setup...it'll make it easier for you to get the help you need. Any set up advice without first seeing your setup may steer you in the wrong direction.